Honeymoon & Travel | Hawaii

Best Beaches in Hawaii

Thu, 24 Sep 2009 12:00:00 AM

It may be difficult to fathom, but even in paradise not all things are created equal. Yes, it’s true—and among Hawaii’s endless postcard-perfect scenes of brilliant turquoise waters set against shimmering sands, there are a few beaches that shine just a bit brighter. Whether it’s primarily for surfing, strolling or just kicking back, each of these strands has something special. Here, our favorite Hawaiian jewels. MEET OUR EXPERTSSamantha BrownSamantha, host of several programs on the Travel Channel, spends over 200 days traveling each year. Viewers follow Sam’s escapades as she discovers delicious food, fabulous shopping, architectural treasures and the kind of authenticity they won’t find in a tourist guidebook. “Unlike any other tropical destination, Hawaii captures your soul and takes your heart on an intimate journey,” says Samantha. “This isn’t a vacation, but an exploration of stunning natural beauty created by volcanoes both sleeping and alive, an age-old culture and of course, yourself. You will not only see Hawaii, you will feel it.”Ellen KlugmanEllen’s career in travel began when she was eight years old and insisted on reviewing the rooms of every hotel her family visited. Hotel reviews remain one of her favorite types of pieces to write. A member of the Society of American Travel Writers since the 1980s, Ellen’s articles and photos on Hawaii have appeared in over 100 publications, including The Los Angeles Times, The Chicago Sun Times, The Philadelphia Inquirer, The San Francisco Examiner, The Washington Post, The New York Post, Condé Nast Traveler and Travel & Leisure. She has also published in The Wall Street Journal, The New York Times, Glamour and Self.Donna Marino WilkinsDonna is a senior editor at Zagat Survey, and editor of Zagat Hawaii Eat/Drink/Stay/Play, World’s Top Hotels, Resorts & Spas and Top U.S. Hotels, Resorts & Spas. She has covered tourism developments in Hawaii, Asia and Latin America for Leisure Travel News, Travel Counselor and Travel Agent. Donna has also written for Destinations, Historic Traveler and The New York Times, among others.Jenna MahoneyOf all the romantic destinations Bridal Guide’s travel editor has visited in search of a story, Hawaii remains her favorite. Maybe it is the fantastic resorts, the amazing sunsets or the fact that she had one of her most memorable meals ever at the Hotel Lanai. But Jenna, a beginner surfer, former competitive sailor and all-round water baby, is convinced Hawaii’s special quality comes from its gorgeous diversity of beaches. When Jenna isn’t covering honeymoons for Bridal Guide, blogging at bridalguide.com and giving industry presentations on travel trends, she is busy planning her very own big, fat Spanish wedding. Photography: Travel ChannelBest Sunrise…Hulopo’e Beach, LanaiFrom your perch on a red lava rock, adjacent to the nationally protected Holopo’e Beach on the tiny island of Lanai, you can watch the moon set and the sun rise behind legendary Sweetheart Rock, a steep rock island 150 feet offshore. Then look across the channel to Maui, as it turns remarkable shades of violet, pink and gold. Once the sun is up, take a morning dip, along with a pod of 200 acrobatic spinner dolphins that breakfasts in the cove. Bonus: This is a prime spot to see whales during their mating season (January through April).Best Sunset…Ka’anapali Beach, MauiAt dusk, someone blows on a conch shell, signaling that it’s time to head to Pu’u Keka’a (Black Rock in English), the massive lava boulder that juts into the sea. This is the focal point for the nightly torch lighting and cliff-diving ritual. Shortly before sunset, a loincloth-clad “warrior” lights a series of torches all the way up to the rock’s crest. As a tribute to tribal elders, as well as to the elements, he holds an orchid lei to the sky in all four directions. Just as the sun slips into the channel and the sky is painted in pink and yellow, the barefoot warrior dives 30 feet into the dark ocean.Best for Stargazing…Hapuna Beach, Big IslandPitch-dark night skies and shimmering constellations make you feel as though you are swimming in a sea of stars on this Kohala Coast beach. Take a seat in the warm, superfine sand, and wish upon a shooting star. Or look out across the water at the low-slung moon casting a silvery glimmer across the cove. If you’re staying at the nearby Hapuna Beach Prince Hotel, you can view your celestial favorites through a high-powered telescope.Best for Long Walks…Papohaku (Three Mile) Beach, MolokaiWhile there are many picturesque coves all across the islands, not many are long enough for day-dreamy, hourslong, hand-in-hand strolls. But on the small island of Molokai, you’ll find this rare jewel. One of the grandest stretches of sand in Hawaii, Papohaku Beach is over three miles long and 300 yards wide. And since Molokai doesn’t have a single resort, you are virtually guaranteed to have this picturesque place all to yourselves. Ferries from Maui go to Molokai twice daily.Best to Laze in the Shade…Kona Village Resort, Big IslandThis picturesque setting is dotted with beachside hammocks slung between shady palms. Once you’ve had your fill of kicking back, use that complimentary snorkel equipment to check out the rainbow variety of fish and friendly green sea turtles that swim in the neighboring coves fronting upscale thatched-roof bungalows.Best for a Low-Key Picnic...Ai’opio Beach, the Big IslandSpread out your blanket on any of the crescent-shaped beaches that front the calm, lapping waters—Ai’opio is a lovely choice. The offshore reefs protect the area from strong surf, so swimming in the warm waters is encouraged. Afterward, explore the nearby fish ponds carved of black lava rock by Hawaiians in olden times.Best Wine Bar…Manta & Pavilion Wine Bar, Mauna Kea Beach Hotel, Mauna Kea Beach, The Big IslandAdded as part of an enormous renovation project that reopened the historic Mauna Kea Beach Hotel, the Manta & Pavilion Wine Bar features 48 wines that can be sipped al fresco on a large terrace. Savor your favorite vintage, some award-winning pupus (appetizers), like grilled yakitori and freshly rolled sushi, and drink in the unbeatable views of one the most celebrated crescent beaches in America.Best Beach Bar…Duke’s at the Outrigger Waikiki, OahuLocated at the epicenter of Oahu’s popular Waikiki Beach, Duke’s is an indoor/outdoor bar that honors the guy who popularized the modern sport of surfing. The spot has some of the best views and the cheapest prices of any area bar. Indoors, enjoy rockin’ live music while taking a look at surfing memorabilia. Or enjoy your local Longboard Lager at a table on the sand and listen to the sound of some of the best surfing waves in the islands as they roll into shore.Duke's, on Waikiki Beach, with Diamond Head in the backgroundPhotography: Duke's WaikikiBest Snorkeling…Anini County Beach Park, KauaiPicnic tables, stunning long strands of white sand, transparent waters, a mass of shade trees and one of the largest coral reefs in Hawaii make Anini a favorite with locals. And thanks to the shallow waters that extend along the sandy off shore shoal, beginner snorkelers can have an amazing experience. Gear rental isn’t available here, so bring your own snorkel and mask, and splash around with the wonderful menagerie of friendly sea creatures.The diverse landscape of KauaiPhotography: Kauai Visitors BureauBest Scuba…Honaunau Bay, Big IslandDivers of all levels love the network of underwater lava sculptures in this bay. And it’s no wonder! More of Hawaii’s native fish can be found in the waters of this beautiful bay than any other spot. There are parrot fish, tang, surgeon fish and moray eels, as well as turtles and dolphins. When you’re done diving, check out the Place of Refuge, an ancient sanctuary that is now a national historical park.The Big Island's Honoaunau BayPhotography: BIVB/Bob CoelloBest Scenery…Lumahai Beach, KauaiThis beach, made famous in the film South Pacific,...

Our Own Private Maui

Wed, 01 Apr 2009 12:00:00 AM

When I got engaged, I was so elated that I couldn’t imagine ever feeling any happier. But one week later, when my fiancé, Iván, and I went to Hawaii for six days, we had to admit that the experience was in a whole different league. We split our time between Maui and its small sister island, Lanai, taking advantage of their opportunities for hiking, sailing and surfing. And we relished the quiet times too, in a setting of such unparalleled natural beauty. Always, the writer/editor in me couldn’t help but take notes about our fantasy-island vacation to share with all of you. Here’s the diary of our adventure.Day OneA wooden church in Lanai’s jungle interiorAfter landing in Maui, Iván and I hopped in a little Chrysler Crossfire convertible and zoomed past towering palms toward Wailea, the island’s upscale resort area on the southern coast. At one point, when we stopped for a light, we looked over and saw Haleakala, a hulking dormant volcano that sits in the middle of the island, shrouded in mist. One popular activity here is to take a daybreak excursion to the top. You set out from your hotel in a van in the dead of night, then you wait to watch the sun rise (in Hawaiian Haleakala actually means “house used by the sun”). Once day breaks, everyone hops on bikes and glides down the mountain. Chilling out at the adults-only infinity pool at Wailea Marriott Resort & SpaWhen we arrived at the Wailea Marriott Resort & Spa, we checked in at the open-air front desk and were told about a mandatory resort fee. (Travel tip: Many Hawaiian hotels have these $15 to $25 fees in addition to the room rate and local taxes, so budget accordingly. The rates may cover the cost of anything from housekeeping and bellmen services to beach towel rentals.) Our cozy room had a huge balcony overlooking the Pacific. We chilled out on the lanai (as the balcony is usually referred to in Hawaii), absorbing the soft ocean breeze. A little while later, we attended an intimate cocktail party by the hotel’s adults-only infinity pool, which stretches toward the horizon and seems to become one with the Pacific. We snacked on pupus (appetizers in Hawaiian) and marveled at all the stars in the sky (a rarity in New York City). The calmness and tranquillity felt magical to us, and everything got even better when we spotted a mother whale and her young calf cavorting offshore. But after our more than 11 hours of traveling, we were beat and soon headed back to our room for a serious sleep session in the supercomfy bed (marriott.com). Day TwoA brilliant Maui sunsetThe next day we took a daylong hiking excursion with Hike Maui. Our guide (and the most talkative guy on the planet), Randy, met us and two other couples at the hotel’s breezy porte cochere with a big white van loaded with gear. He outfitted us with backpacks, bagged lunches and cool aqua-colored booties with separated toes for crossing streams and muddy trails. Then we drove past Haleakala and onto the famed Road to Hana, a twisting two-lane coastal highway that winds up Maui’s west side, ending at the black-sand beaches on the north shore. Along the way, Randy pointed out pineapple patches (did you know the fruit grows close to the ground?), a Buddhist temple and a world-famous windsailing spot. Twenty minutes later we arrived at Hoolawa Valley, a protected area with tons of tropical foliage and a couple of waterfalls, known as Twin Falls. As we trekked over the muddy trails (thank goodness for those aqua shoes), Randy pointed out ti trees, hibiscus and tuberose, which was so fragrant it was as if I were sniffing a bottle of perfume. When we came upon the kukui trees, Randy explained that at one time the Hawaiian royal family burned the oil from the nuts as a light source. (Travel tip: A great keepsake is a necklace fashioned from polished kukui nuts.) We crossed a wooden footbridge and scrambled over some boulders to a swimming hole at the base of a waterfall. We splashed in the cool, crystal-clear water and stood beneath the falls—what an exhilarating feeling! Ivan and I in our hiking dear at Twin Falls, MauiAfter a pb&j sandwich and slices of mango, kiwi and starfruit that Randy offered us from his backpack, we continued with our explorations of the shaded jungle—tramping over leaf-packed paths and carefully navigating slippery, moss-covered rocks. At some point a light mist settled over us like an aura. Back in the van, Randy put on a CD of Brother Iz, Hawaii’s most famous singer. As we listened to his sweet version of “Somewhere Over the Rainbow” Iván and I held hands and watched the gorgeous scenery (hikemaui.com). A quick shower and change later we were off to dinner at Chez Paul, a French-island fusion restaurant in the town of Olowalu. We scored an intimate table in the back room and lingered for hours over ahi tuna for my fiancé and a specially created vegetarian selection for me. But the pièce de résistance was the Pineapple Crème Brûlée, a gooey, sugary confection served in a hollowed-out locally grown pineapple (wonder if it was from one of the patches we saw earlier?). Day ThreeThat’s me – charging it in Maui!Our third day on Maui just happened to be Valentine’s Day. Thanks to a lingering case of jet lag, we woke with the sun and sat on our lanai sipping yummy Hawaiian coffee and watching the sea. Then it was time for surfing! I’m a beginner surfer and don’t consider myself very good, but I do try to get in the water whenever possible. And I knew that actually riding the waves in the place where the sport was invented would be akin to having a religious experience. Iván, on the other hand, had never surfed, so we took a two-hour private lesson with Maui Wave Riders at the beach in nearby Kihei. With our instructor, Twolia, a tiny girl with major muscles, we lugged two oversize surfboards onto a grassy patch near the shore. Clad in rash guards (insulated surf shirts) and board shorts, we practiced pop-ups, the tricky—and key—part of surfing, in which you go from lying on your belly to standing up—all in a single move. Once we proved our pop-up prowess, we brought our boards to the water and paddled out to the lineup (surf talk for the area where surfers wait for waves). Once Iván huffed and puffed his way out, Twolia gave him some tips on form. I asked questions on wave selection and timing—my two biggest issues. Twolia pushed Iván into the waves as I paddled and caught my own. By the end of the two hours, Ivan was catching and riding waves without help, and I had made friends with the locals (Hi, Mike!) in the lineup (mauiwaveriders.com). A secluded Maui beachAfter a lunch of veggie chili dogs and locally brewed Longboard Lager, we headed to the fantastically luxurious Fairmont Kea Lani, Maui in Wailea. With its Ottoman-style domed roofs, the beachfront property is unlike any other in the area. And thanks to two- and three-bedroom oceanfront villas, the hotel is a big hit with celebrities like the Simpson sisters and the Spears family. As we toured the oversize resort’s winding pool complex, three restaurants and two open-air bars, we kept our eyes peeled, but alas, no star sightings for us. So as a consolation prize that turned out to be better than anything else we could have done, we indulged in an hour-long couple’s massage at the tranquil Spa Kea Lani. The session was so relaxing, we both fell asleep on the table. Later, we strolled along a 600-foot-long oceanfront pathway back to our hotel, cancelled our dinner plans and sat on the lanai of our room, where we watched the brilliant sunset and sipped cava (Spanish champagne), an engagement gift from my parents. Day FourOur room at the Four Seasons Resort Menele BayWinter is whale season in Maui and the surrounding islands. From late January to mid-March, humpback whales migrate south to warmer waters, where they look for mates. Since the male whales are always looking to impress the females with fin slaps, tail wags and breaches—leaping in the water—it is an awesome...

Royal Hawaii

Wed, 21 Jan 2009 12:00:00 AM

Your wedding day isn’t the only time you should feel like royalty. A Hawaiian honeymoon can extend the feeling of living like a king and queen—the islands sing of majesty and the spirit of aloha. After all, these sublime isles are no strangers to the royal treatment; from the early 1300s until the late 1800s, they were a kingdom. In fact, the only real palaces in the U.S. are in Hawaii! So cue the trumpets, roll out the red carpet and get ready to experience life like Hawaiian royalty on the islands of Kauai, Oahu and Molokai.KAUAIThe green fields and lush mountains of Kauai, the garden isle.Ancestors of the royal family still reside on an island that seems to sit on the edge of the earth. Explore the Royal Coconut Coast. Also known as Kawaihau, this area on the east coast was once a choice spot for religious (and superstitious) royals. It is comprised of four municipalities—Wailua, Kapa’a, Waipouli and Ke’alia—and some of the best beaches on the island. Perhaps the most important spot in this area is Wailua, which sits in the shadow of Nounou Mountain, also known as the Sleeping Giant. Legend has it that the land around the mouth of the Wailua River is sacred. There are large boulders on the banks etched with petroglyphs. And one rock, called the birthing stone or Pohaku-Ho’ohanau, was where the royal family gave birth (they often traveled here from other islands because the stone was said to impart divine powers onto the child). Today, the history of the region is preserved at the Wailua River State Park, where you can view the petroglyphs, swim in seawater pools and hike winding tropical trails that end in the Fern Grotto, a natural garden housed in an ancient cave. (You can even choose to get married here.) A relaxing river cruise is another way to treat yourself: As you float down the enchanting waterway, you’ll be entertained by hula performances and traditional music, as well as by narrated stories of the area’s history and legends (smithskuaui.com).Get the ultimate royal treatment with an outdoor stone massage.Get pampered in Princeville. In 1860, this upscale area was named Princeville in honor of Hawaiian Prince Albert, who died at the tender age of four. Today the resort community boasts residences, timeshares, two world-class golf courses, a spa and the überluxurious St. Regis hotel, formerly the Princeville Resort. (The property is currently closed and undergoing a major renovation. It will reopen in April 2009). Among the fabulous guest-room offerings, which include high-thread-count sheets and gold-infused wall coverings, is the complimentary Malie Mist. The aura-cleansing spray features the essential oils of the sacred malie plant, which were often used in rituals, including weddings. The tropical plant is found only deep in the Kauai rain forest (stregis.com). Also in the Princeville area is the Westin Princeville Ocean Resort Villas, which opened last year. The property sits on the towering sea cliffs overlooking Hanalei Bay and boasts four pools and access to three golf courses. The resort is also home to a restaurant hot spot, Nanea, which has locals and visitors clamoring for its delectable island cuisine (westin.com).For a truly elevating experience and the best views of the island, hop on a helicopter. Island Helicopter excursions buzz along the coastline, drawing incredibly close to some of Kauai’s breathtaking waterfalls and rugged canyons in the island’s interior (islandhelicopters.com).Let loose with a lomi lomi massage. In Hawaiian, lomi lomi means to touch with loving hands. To honeymooners, lomi lomi means ultimate relaxation. A royal tradition for centuries, the massage technique incorporates long, rhythmic strokes. Compared to other types of massage, the practitioner uses elbows and forearms as well as hands, a method that’s said to improve energy flow. One of the best places to experience the massage is at Hanalei Day Spa in Hanalei. Treatments are conducted in beachfront, handcrafted hales, traditional Hawaiian houses fashioned from thatched palm fronds and ti leaves. As you lie in the shade, lulled by the sound of lapping waves, you’ll feel like an authentic royal (hanaleidayspa.com). OAHUThe heat is on at the Hilton Hawaiian Village Beach Resort & Spa on Oahu.This island, where Hawaii’s current state capital is situated, was also once home to the Hawaiian monarchy. Today, the royal palace is a popular museum. Go native at the Hilton Hawaiian Village Resort & Spa, an enormously sprawling beachfront property that pays homage to the past while offering modern day luxuries. Think of it as an oasis of pampering with every possible resort amenity, from a spa and water sports center to a wedding chapel. It boasts more than 3,000 guest rooms in six towers spread over 22 acres of sandy white beach (hiltonhawaiianvillage.com). Take a splash in Waikiki’s largest swimming pool (10,000 square feet), wander the acres of tropical gardens hand in hand and indulge in the signature Four-Hand Massage at Mandara Spa (hiltonhawaiianvillage.com). You can also follow in the footsteps of one of Hawaii’s most revered figures, Duke Kahanamoku, the man who is credited with introducing the art of surfing to the U.S. mainland and winning an Olympic gold medal in swimming in 1920. Before surfing became known for its popularity with the bleached-blonde-and-forever-tan set, surfing was a royal activity. And according to some experts, royal Hawaiian women were actually the first leisure surfers. At the Hilton Hawaiian Village, classes and private instruction are held in the exact place where Duke surfed as a child and young man. Sessions include basic surf etiquette, pop-up drills and some balancing skills (hiltonhawaiianvillage.com). After all that activity, you’re sure to be hungry, so head on over to the resort’s luau, the only one held on Waikiki Beach. This traditional Polynesian feast, popular with locals and visitors alike, once served as a celebration for the islands’ royalty. Held at sunset, the luau’s highlight is the unearthing of the roasted pig from the imu, a pit filled with lava rocks and bamboo stumps and covered by ti leaves. The luau includes a hearty buffet featuring the roasted kalua pig, poi (a pudding-like dish made from taro root) and breadfruit, among other local favorites. When the sun goes down, the celebrating starts, so grab a Mai Tai and watch the fire-eaters, hula girls and other performers show their stuff (hiltonhawaiianvillage.com). America’s only royal palace is on Oahu.Step back in time at the royal palaces. Iolani Palace in Honolulu is the only official royal residence to ever exist in the United States, and it’s also the spot where Hawaii’s rich cultural traditions were revived in the 1970s. The Hawaiian kingdom’s last two monarchs, King Kalakaua, who built the two-tiered modern structure in 1882, and his sister and successor, Queen Lili’uokalani, resided here. In addition to serving as the monarchy’s seat of power, the white brick palace also hosted cultural events and luaus. It was here that the queen wrote the Hawaiian anthem, as well as 165 more folk songs, including the popular “Aloha ‘Oe.” All that changed in 1895, however, when Queen Lili’uokalani was overthrown and imprisoned in the building. During World War II, the palace served as a temporary military headquarters before being turned into government offices. When those officials moved out in 1969, the palace was restored in exacting detail. It was then that an appreciation of Hawaiian culture, including hula and language, was reawakened. Today, you can tour the restored interiors and learn about the history firsthand. If you like, you can even hold your wedding here (iolanipalace.org).Have a bite to eat across the street at the trendy Downtown@HiSAM, inside the Hawaii State Art Museum, which was built in 1872 as Hawaii’s first hotel and crash pad for guests of the royals (hawaii.gov/sfca).For another palatial attraction, stop by the Queen Emma Summer...

Colors of Hawaii

Mon, 17 Nov 2008 12:00:00 AM

Swaying palm trees, frangipani-scented trade winds and the soft sensuality of the hula: These are just a few of the reasons why Hawaii usually lands at the top of most people’s hot list for romantic destinations. Sunsets are a particularly sacred time to savor nature’s beauty and the good fortune the two of you share. We hopped across the Hawaiian Islands in search of the most memorable ways to spend those special moments. Here’s your guide to the evening shows. MauiA hula dancer gives thanks for the day of the Big Island.The favorite of many visitors to Hawaii, this island melds high-end resorts and golf courses with genuine Hawaiian experiences. And the sunsets are no exception. Posh, sophisticated Kaanapali Beach on Maui’s west coast offers beach butlers and the latest in water-sports equipment by day. Come dusk, however, a whole new mood takes hold along its tawny three-mile shore. At each of Kaanapali’s 11 resorts, someone blows a conch shell signaling that it’s time to head to Pu’u Keka’a (called Black Rock in English), the massive black lava boulder that juts into the sea and divides the beach in two. This is the focal point for the nightly torch-lighting and cliff-diving ritual. The ancients believed that Pu’u Keka’a was the spot where the souls of slain warriors leaped into the ancestral world, and the cliff-diving ceremony celebrates that legend. Shortly before sunset, a loincloth-clad “warrior” lights a series of torches all the way up to the boulder’s crest, symbolizing the path for these souls to follow. As an acknowledgment of tribal elders, as well as the elements, he holds an orchid lei to the sky in all four directions. Just as the sun slips into the channel and the sky is painted in pink and vibrant yellow, the barefoot warrior plunges some 30 feet into the inky ocean below. Afterward, head to the Kaanapali Beach Hotel, order a Tropical Itch mai tai at the Tiki Bar and enjoy the free hula show under the stars. Known as the most Hawaiian hotel in Maui for its numerous award-winning cultural programs, this laid-back low-rise resort is also a great budget-conscious hideaway (kbhmaui.com). LanaiThe small “pineapple” island is part of Maui county, but with only three hotels and fewer than 3,000 residents, you’ll feel as though you’re a world away. Take a sunset cruise with the crew at Trilogy Excursion and you’ll be in the company of more dolphins (and whales in January through March) than fellow passengers. It’s not unusual for a pod of 25 or more Spinner dolphins to swim alongside the 54-foot catamaran, creating an aquatic ballet. The two-hour sail features an impressive array of appetizers, including shrimp cocktail, crispy vegetable spring rolls and a selection of artisanal cheeses, catered by the Four Seasons Resort Lanai at Manele Bay. As you nibble on snacks and watch the dolphins jump and twirl, you’ll also be treated to some storytelling by the crew, who have a repertoire of Hawaiian legends. Then, just as the sun sinks low in the sky, the captain will position the boat in front of the aptly named Sweetheart Rock. You’ll float in silence there as the rose-orange ball slides into the ocean (sailtrilogy.com). Stay at the beachfront Four Seasons Resort Lanai at Manele Bay and you’ll be able to explore Sweetheart Rock on your own. The path starts on the property and winds along the shoreline, over volcanic rock and past tide pools teeming with life and ends near the towering rock formation. At the resort, you can enjoy garden spa treatments and other five-star amenities (fourseasons.com).The Big IslandThe setting sun's molten colors seem to ignite the pool at the Fairmont Orchid on the Big Island.Here, on the largest and youngest of the islands, the diverse topography ranges from black-sand beaches to a white snowcapped mountain. The chilly summit of the slumbering Mauna Kea (“white mountain volcano is a stellar destination for star-gazing: More than 90 percent of the stars visible from earth can be discerned from this 13,796-foot mountaintop. It’s also an excellent spot to view the sunset on an adventure tour run by Hawaii Forest & Trail. Bundle up (the temps can dip down to the 30s), and head up the incline to watch the sun go down amid eerie shades of purple, pink, blue, red and green. On the horizon, the island of Maui glows like a white-hot ember. Once it gets dark, it’s time for dinner—served on picnic benches and followed by star-watching with the tour’s astronomers (hawaii-forest.com). Beach lovers can hit the hammocks at the oceanfront Fairmont Orchid and watch the fiery sun ignite the sky in a dramatic blaze of red and orange. The beach also happens to be a favorite with the island’s green sea turtles, so you may have some company. In a while you can head to the resort’s pool deck for stargazing on a Rambo-sized, Celestron-11 telescope (fairmont.com/orchid). The ultraposh Fairmont Orchid is the only Big Island luxury property to offer an exclusive key-card access floor, where complimentary lounge amenities include Internet access, Continental breakfast buffet, afternoon tea and yummy evening appetizers like sushi and shrimp cocktail (fairmont.com/orchid). OahuRelishing the food, the view and each other at the Sheraton Waikiki.This cosmopolitan island has towering skyscrapers on its south side and epic mountains and untouched beaches on its north shore. Whatever your pleasure, sunset viewing is tops on Oahu.In Hawaiian, Hanohano means “glorious” or “distinctive,” and it’s the perfect moniker for a restaurant that boasts the highest vantage point in the city of Honolulu. Located atop the Sheraton Waikiki, this is the primo spot to experience Oahu’s legendary sunsets. As you ascend a glass elevator 30 stories to the bar, an oval space with knockout panoramic views, you’ll watch Waikiki Beach unfurl beneath your feet. If you get a table facing away from the beach, you’ll watch as the sun bathes downtown Honolulu in liquid gold before it slips into the sparkling Pacific. For almost 360-degree views of the famous beach, craggy Diamond Head and the majestic Ko’olau mountains, snag a spot on a sofa in the hip lounge. Wherever you sit, enjoy house specialties like Wasabe Sake Tini, a wasabe-infused sake and vodka cocktail, a pupu (appetizer) of kalua pig naan, and smoked pork with melted Brie and cranberry served on Indian flatbread. On Wednesdays, you can groove to the sounds of live jazz; every other Saturday the space is transformed into a lively nightclub, complete with bottle service and DJs. Why not stay where you play? Thanks to a recent $55 million renovation, the Sheraton Waikiki hotel’s 1,695 oceanfront and mountain-view rooms feature special levered windows in the bathrooms that allow you to shower in complete privacy as you enjoy clear views of the horizon (starwoodhotelshawaii.com).*BRIDAL GUIDE EXCLUSIVE! Mention Bridal Guide and receive the exclusive Sheraton Waikiki Romance Package starting at $337 a night. In addition to accommodations, the rate includes a wine and cheese plate upon arrival, breakfast, a catamaran sail, a 15% discount on a treatment of your choice at the Sheraton Waikiki Spa, plus a complimentary tapa at RumFire or an appetizer at Hanohano Room. Host your wedding reception here, spend $10,000 or more, mention Bridal Guide and you’ll receive a $1,000 credit, which may be used for amenities such as an ice sculpture, a champagne toast, centerpieces and more. Go to bridalguide.com/deals for more information.Kauai An otherworldly evening scene on Hawaii's Big Island.On Kauai’s mystical North Shore, rainbows appear and vanish in the blink of an eye; this dramatic, rugged area is also the most westerly point in the U.S. from which to...

The Art of Aloha

Tue, 14 Oct 2008 12:00:00 AM

You’ve heard so much about the wonders of a Hawaiian honeymoon: everything from gushing waterfalls and world-class resorts to tropical forests and powder-soft beaches, not to mention the islands’ rich heritage. Now there’s another temptation—an explosive art scene. With elegant outdoor sculpture gardens, art installations at resorts that rival world-class museum collections and even an “art” hotel, you can satisfy your inner aesthete along with your outer hedonist.MauiIsland artwork adorns all the public spaces at the Four Seasons Resort Maui at Wailea.The modern NaPua Gallery at the Grand Wailea Resort in MauiMaui is the resort and golfing hot spot of the Hawaiian Islands, but it isn’t at all uncommon to find local artists’ work showcased in the elegant hotels here. However, the Four Seasons Resort Maui at Wailea has taken the trend to a whole new level. As part of an extensive $50 million refurbishment, the hotel recently unveiled a brand new contemporary fine-art collection housed in its open-air lobby, hallways and guest rooms. The hotel’s 280-piece collection was assembled to celebrate and highlight Hawaii’s rich culture. The bulk of the artwork is fashioned by next-generation artists, who have reinterpreted the ancient traditions and culture. Among the portrait paintings by Kauai native Jason Teraoka, you’ll find beautiful works that have been influenced—like Hawaii itself—by Polynesian, Japanese, Chinese, Indonesian, Philippine and Korean cultures. While individual pieces emphasize personal stories, taken together they celebrate a contemporary island vision. And, as opposed to a museum, the open-air design affords a more complete experience of appreciating the artworks, made even easier with the hotel’s audio tour (downloadable to iPods), which includes music by Hawaiian legend Keli’I Rachel. This complimentary program invites guests to experience the art at their own pace (fourseasons.com). At the neighboring Grand Wailea Resort & Spa, an artist-in-residence program (held Tuesday through Friday from 9:00 a.m. to 2:00 p.m. in the lobby) showcases selected local artists and their work, from oil painting to collage to ceramics. The artists often work right there, providing guests with an intimate view of the creative process (grandwailea.com). Another hotel noted for its on-site art experience is The Fairmont Kea Lani, where sculptor Dale Zarrella has been carving his latest work, “Wailea Mermaid.” The artist is fashioning a quintessential Hawaiian scene from a block of wood harvested from a large Rainsaver tree on a local plantation. The project is expected to be completed in September (fairmont.com/kealani). OahuWyland's bronzed sea creatures seem to leap into the air on the grounds of the Wyland Waikiki hotel on Oahu.As home to 70 percent of the state’s population, as well as its capital, Oahu has a cosmopolitan scene awash with museums and galleries. Light. Glass. Sea. All these elements take center stage at the 403-room Wyland Waikiki, home to a $4 million collection of works by famed marine-life artist Wyland (the artist goes by his surname only). The lobby’s soft lighting and flowing space create the feeling of the sea; also on display here is a 360-degree aquarium. The Wy Bar lounge overlooks the swimming pool, while guest rooms feature beds with ocean-hued bedcovers and accent pillows. An outdoor sculpture garden showcases Wyland’s bronzes of whales, dolphins and sea turtles (thewylandwaikikihotel.com). Another Oahu must-visit is The Bishop Museum, a research and educational center that contains both permanent and temporary collections. In the Polynesian galleries you’ll find two floors of artifacts that tell the story of the peoples of Polynesia, Micronesia and Melanesia. In the Princess Abigail Kawananakoa Kahili Room, you can learn about the Hawaiian monarchy and view the precious Kahili (feathers and feather standards) associated with each royal family. And at the 16,500-square-foot Science Adventure Center, you can explore Hawaii’s diverse environment through interactive exhibits about volcanology, oceanography and botany.The museum has begun an ambitious multimillion-dollar renovation project in the Hawaiian Hall area, where local treasured objects are held. In January 2008 the Picture Gallery reopened, with its collection of unrivaled oil paintings, watercolors and woodprints, which haven’t been on public view for more than 60 years. The highlight of this collection is a series of 18th- and 19th-century oil paintings, including works by John Webber, the artist who accompanied Captain Cook, the seafarer credited with being the first European to reach the Hawaiian Islands. The entire renovation is scheduled to be completed in early 2009 (bishopmuseum.org). Big IslandThe entrance to the grand Fairmonth Orchid on the Big IslandHawaii’s Big Island is known for its expanses of black lava, flanked by a sparkling sea and lush green mountains. If you love the simplicity of vast, wide-open spaces and a low-key vibe, this island is for you. The Waikoloa Beach Marriott Resort & Spa has capitalized on Hawaii’s iconic sport—surfing—to find inspiration for part of its recent $50 million renovation. The hotel now showcases limited-edition photographs by Leroy Grannis and Jeff Devine, two of the most acclaimed surfing photographers in the world. Grannis’ legendary still-life images from the 60s defined surf culture, while Jeff Devine captured the same subculture in the 70s. Taken together, their works illustrate more than 40 years of the sport’s history (marriott.com).*BRIDAL GUIDE EXCLUSIVE! Mention Bridal Guide and receive a complimentary bottle of champagne and a book of Hawaiian photography. Go to bridalguide.com/deals for more information.On the Big Island’s west side, the ornate Fairmont Orchid Hawaii recently debuted the Luana Lounge, a gallery filled exclusively with work by local artists. The exhibits rotate quarterly, with the inaugural one featuring woodprints created in a nearby art and cultural center in collaboration with Japanese print master Hiroki Morinoue. Visitors can meet local artists, and an education program welcomes guests to create art themselves. Proceeds from artwork purchased at the hotel benefit local artists (fairmont.com/orchid).KauaiKnown as the Garden Isle, Kauai is an Eden that celebrates the raw power of nature. Waimea Canyon, considered the Grand Canyon of the Pacific, and the towering sea cliffs of the Na Pali Coast beckon honeymooners who favor remote and unspoiled destinations. Kauai’s striking landscape has lured countless artists and art collectors to its shores. In 1982 Joyce and Ed Doty retired to Kauai from their ranch in northern California and turned what began as a simple front-yard landscape project into a unique art venue: the Na Aina Kai Botanical Garden, a sculpture park (as well as a wedding venue) containing more than 100 bronze artworks. In 1999 the couple turned their passion into a not-for-profit foundation and invited the public to enjoy the unique space they’d created. The 240-acre labyrinth is a magical collection of gardens and outdoor sculpture, where you wander past a hedge maze, a waterfall, a koi-filled lagoon and a forest of 60,000 hardwood trees. Spend the afternoon strolling miles of trails, past chocolate, nutmeg and cinnamon trees and sweetly scented ginger and vanilla vines. Or stop for a picnic at the secluded white sand beach. An “amusement” garden, with fruit trees, unique ornamental plants and whimsical bronze sculptures, is currently in the works. Be sure to pop into the Orchid House Gift Shop and Bamboo Gallery, where you’ll find island- and garden-oriented gifts, books, jewelry and pieces in porcelain and bronze, including many one-of-a-kind creations by local artisans. Note: The gardens are closed all day Saturday and Sunday and Friday afternoons (reservations are strongly suggested; naainakai.org).

Best Honeymoon Deals in Hawaii

Fri, 05 Sep 2008 12:00:00 AM

The Hawaiian Islands are like heaven on earth—diverse coastlines, scenic bays, tropical jungles, towering mountains, deep canyons and sweet-smelling foliage. The chance to experience such beauty comes at all prices. Here are some of our picks.MauiFrom top: Poolside at Maui's Fairmont Kea Lani; dinner and a show at the Four Seasons Hualalai’s Pahu i'a restaurant; inside a suite at the Fairmont Kea Lani.This island has it all—fantastic beaches, rushing waterfalls, protected reefs and lush rain forests. The Wailea area on the southwest coast is lined with luxury resorts and upscale shops, but super savings on accommodations and excursions are also easy to find. SplurgeWhere to Stay: The all-suite Fairmont Kea Lani, Maui on Polo Beach in Wailea is luxury defined. (Celeb sightings are de rigueur here.) Stay in one of the resort’s 37 oceanfront villas and enjoy a duplex suite with two or three bedrooms, two baths, a separate sitting room and a private terrace with a plunge pool and oversize grill. You can also enjoy complimentary luxury car rentals, private chef service and the ultimate in privacy. Resort amenities include four restaurants, a spa, a 24-hour fitness center and a gourmet shop (fairmont.com/kealani). Where to Eat: The evening ambience doesn’t get any better than at Ferraro’s Bar e Ristorante at the Four Seasons Resort Maui at Wailea. The spectacular beachfront setting is complemented by a torch-lit, open-air design that affords views of the star-filled sky. The food and service are equally extraordinary. Try the signature lobster risotto, a creamy blend of seafood, vegetables and wide-grain rice, or opt for the roasted Hawaiian sea bass, served with garlic confit and Napa cabbage. Nothing beats the decadent flourless Valrhona chocolate cake drenched in pear compote for dessert (fourseasons.com/maui).What to Do: For the best views of the entire island and Haleakala, a dormant volcano, take a UFO Parasail tour high above Kaanapali Beach on the west coast. After boarding a small boat and motoring out past breaking waves, you’ll be strapped into a life jacket and harness. As the boat speeds away, you’ll be gently lifted 800 feet into the air. The heart-pumping experience lasts a mere 10 minutes, so try to take it all in (ufoparasailing.com). SaveWhere to Stay: What do you get when you combine the comforts of home and the amenities of a hotel? The Kaanapali Alii, an oceanfront condo complex that sits on Kaanapali Beach. Along with large accommodations that feel like a private residence, complete with full-size kitchens, big bathrooms and high-end washer/dryers, the Kaanapali Alii has excellent hotel-grade offerings, including daily housekeeping and concierge services, a new fitness center and free use of the tennis courts. You’ll also have privileged access to the restaurants at nearby hotels, as well as the Kaanapali Golf Course (kaanapali-alii.com).Where to Eat: Locals and visitors flock to Alexander’s Famous Fish Company for fresh seafood platters. Sure, it’s a fast-food joint, but the prices are among the lowest on Maui, and everything, from the ahi to the ono, is made to order (808-874-0788).What to Do: At Snorkel Bob’s, which has four locations on Maui and many across the other islands, you can use the fins, snorkel and mask for the length of your stay (snorkelbob.com). Bonus: No matter which location you rent from, you can return your equipment to any of the others. The shop also offers prescription masks. Once you’ve suited up, head to Black Rock, the stretch of sea fronting the Sheraton Maui, for an all-day snorkel session. You’ll see turtles, coral formations and local fish, like the humuhumunukunukuapuaa (also the longest word in the Hawaiian language). Tip: All Hawaiian beaches are public, so you can swim, stroll and snorkel anywhere you wish. Photography: (from top) courtesy of Faimont Kea Lani; Four Seasons Resort Hualalai; courtesy of Faimont Kea Lani.The Big IslandThe amazingly diverse landscape here ranges from a lunarlike desert to active coastal volcanoes and snow-capped mountains. The Big Island is also home to Hapuna, one of the most beautiful beaches on the planet, and some of the most exclusive resorts. Spendthrifts enjoy outdoor activities galore and delicious deals at local restaurants. SplurgeWhere to Stay: A cocoon of luxurious comfort is yours when you stay in a Gold Executive Suite, located on the Gold Floor, at the swank Fairmont Orchid. The Gold Floor features its own lounge, dedicated concierge and fully stocked bar. A daily array of complimentary food includes a deluxe Continental breakfast, afternoon tea with finger sandwiches and evening appetizers, like coconut-crusted shrimp in mango glaze. Large ocean-view suites feature custom beds swathed in high-thread-count sheets and comfy feather duvets. Schedule an in-room massage for two and request the Make Room for Romance turndown service, which includes champagne, chocolate-dipped fruit, a candlelit drawn bath, a trail of fresh orchids and more (fairmont.com/orchid). *BRIDAL GUIDE EXCLUSIVE!! Mention Bridal Guide and receive a welcome Hawaiian chocolate plate. The yummy dish features macadamia nut and chocolate cookies, chocolate turtles and other locally made treats. Go to bridalguide.com/deals for more information.Where to Eat: Settle in for sunset watching on the terrace at Pahuia restaurant at the Four Seasons Resort Hualalai and enjoy pupus (appetizers) as you sip the signature Pele’s Firetini, made of citrus vodka and Cointreau, mixed with lime, cranberry and pineapple juices. Later, linger over the Hamakua mushroom tasting menu, which includes mushroom carpaccio, a slow-baked macadamia nut-crusted mahi mahi served with Japanese pumpkin ravioli and the soufflé of the day (fourseasons.com/hualalai). What to Do: Take a helicopter tour over an active volcano with Blue Hawaiian Helicopters. The two-hour excursion takes you across the entire expanse of the island, flying over a rain forest, mountains, waterfalls and the restless Kilauea volcano. As you hover directly above, you can see steam rising and watch the lava as it flows into the ocean (bluehawaiian.com;). SaveWhere to Stay: Enjoy the famous Big Island sunsets from your lanai at the Kona Bali Kai, an affordable condominium in the historic Kailua-Kona on the west coast. Other popular activities at the oceanfront complex include surfing and dolphin watching. The property has an outdoor pool and large Jacuzzi, as well as a grilling area with picnic tables. Room amenities include full kitchens, private balconies and high-speed Internet. Smoking is not allowed (konabalikai.com).Where to Eat: For some of the freshest seafood dishes around, check out Quinn’s Almost by the Sea in Kona. A local favorite for nearly 30 years, the spot offers fish and chips prepared in beer batter for lunch and a fisherman’s platter piled high with local fish, shrimp and calamari for dinner (808-329-3822).What to Do: There are 120 miles of trails winding from sea level to the summit of 14,000-foot Mauna Loa at Hawaii Volcanoes National Park, home of Kilauea, which has been nearly continuously erupting since 1983. Each path has views of the dramatic volcanic steam, colorful native birds, tropical plants and gossamer butterflies. Drive through the park on the 18-mile Chain of Craters Road and you’ll see petroglyphs (nps.gov/havo).KauaiFrom top: On the north shore of the garden isle, Kauai; the tropical setting of Tide Pools restaurant at the Grand Hyatt Kauai.Due to the fact that just a single road encircles the island, things seem a little more private and exclusive here. SplurgeWhere to Stay: Located on Kauai’s remote north shore, the impressive Princeville Resort has long been a favorite escape for celebrities. Stay in a Junior Suite and you’ll have unbeatable views of the resort’s...

Garden Isle Adventures

Fri, 18 Apr 2008 12:00:00 AM

For an adventure-packed honeymoon, Kauai is tough to beat. Its moss-green mountains, plunging valleys, ubiquitous waterfalls and tropical jungle will have you eager to explore as many of these magnificent sights as you can. Lucky for you, there’s no shortage of activities that let you do just that. The best part: Kauai’s average year-round daytime temperature ranges from the mid-70s to mid-80s, with refreshing breezes from northeast tradewinds—ideal for all your explorations. Kalalau the largest valley on NapaliAn ATV rdies past miles of unspoiled terrain.Off the coast of NapaliA zip-liner flashes a "shaka" sign—a popular Hawaiian greeting.A secluded pool on the island's North ShoreThe majestic Wailua FallsRiverboat CruiseOf all the Hawaiian islands, only Kauai has navigable rivers, so jump right in and take advantage of them. On the eastern side of the island, Smith’s Tropical Paradise offers an 80-minute riverboat tour that takes you two miles up the Wailua River to the Fern Grotto, a leafy natural amphitheater. On your way you’ll hear songs and stories about the Hawaiian royalty who once lived here, and a hula dancer will provide a free dance lesson. At the grotto you’ll have just enough time for a short walk through the rain forest (smithskauai.com). While you’re on this side of the island, which is also called the Coconut Coast for its abundance of coconut trees, consider staying at the 311-room ResortQuest Kauai Beach at Makaiwa in the town of Kapaa. The resort features a Polynesian luau six nights a week, complete with live Hawaiian music and hula performances (resortquesthawaii.com). Plantation ToursNear the city of Lihue, about 10 miles south of the Coconut Coast, you’ll find Kilohana, a 100-acre plantation estate built in 1935 at a time when sugarcane farming was a booming business here. You can board the Kauai Plantation Railway (modeled after the wooden trains that transported raw cane to the sugar mills) for a 30-minute ride around working fields of sugarcane, pineapple, banana, papaya and coffee. Along the way you get a chance to feed some goats, pigs and sheep. After your tour, be sure to browse the shops for antiques, jewelry and Hawaiian crafts (kilohanakauai.com). Then treat yourselves to an alfresco lunch at the estate’s Gaylord’s Courtyard Restaurant, which serves venison, lamb, seafood and pastas. Or complete your trip into the past with a romantic Clydesdale-drawn carriage ride. Plantation Carriages offers a 20-minute tour that covers 35 acres within the plantation (theweddingcarriage.com).ATV ExcursionIf you’re up for an exciting off-road adventure, you’ll want to try an all-terrain vehicle (ATV). Sign on for the four-hour waterfall tour offered by Kauai ATV, located in Old Koloa Town on the South Shore (aka Kauai’s sunnier side). Choose from four-wheel, single-person ATVs or fully automatic, two-person “mud bugs.” At a speed of 25 to 30 miles per hour, you’ll trace the paths of old sugarcane trails, past Kauai’s gorgeous landscape—so awe-inspiring, in fact, that several scenes from Jurassic Park were filmed within these 22,000 acres. A highlight is the breathtaking half-mile tunnel that takes you straight through the center of the Haupu Mountains. You’ll also appreciate a refreshing break at a small waterfall, where you can wash off the red dirt (or mud, depending on the rainfall) you’ll be covered with by then. Hint: Borrow a T-shirt and fatigues from the company beforehand; after all, getting dirty is half the fun (kauaiatv.com). Nearby accommodations include the Grand Hyatt Kauai Resort and Spa, a top-rated 602-room property in Koloa, with a massive spa, meandering pools, some with hidden caves and waterfalls, and a saltwater lagoon (kauai.hyatt.com). For a homier experience, stay at the Kiahuna Plantation & The Beach Bungalows, a condo resort in the beach town of Poipu. Each of the 333 suites and bungalows offers a private lanai or garden terrace and a full kitchen. Its Plantation Gardens restaurant serves delicious Polynesian and Asian-influenced pupus (appetizers) and cocktails (castleresorts.com). You can also walk across the street to the Poipu Shopping Village for dinner at local favorite Keoki’s Paradise. Order the fresh fish of the day—which might be ono, a lean white game fish, or opah, also known as Hawaiian moon fish (keokisparadise.com).Zip-lining ExpeditionYou’ll really get your heart pumping with a zip-line tour. Are you ready? First, you’ll be strapped into a harness that’s hooked onto a pulley. Then you’ll jump off a platform some 150 feet above a lush ravine and swing—or zip—along a steel cable to the ravine’s far side. Invigorating, to say the least. For a bigger thrill, try jumping off the platform backward. On the North Shore, Princeville Ranch Adventures is the go-to spot for zip-lining. Its four-and-a-half-hour-long Zip N’ Dip Expedition features eight different lines, the longest of which is 770 feet across. Your lunch break is at a small swimming hole, where you can dive into the deep end or grab an inner tube and paddle toward the waterfall for an excellent photo op (adventureskauai.com). While you’re in the area, make your way to Tunnels Beach, one of the best spots on the island for swimming, snorkeling and scuba diving, and take some time to explore nearby Hanalei Town. The Hanalei Lookout is a must-see. A patchwork of emerald green and brown, the lush valley is where most of the taro (used to make poi, a Hawaiian food staple) in the state is grown. As for an ideal honeymoon retreat, the 252-room Princeville Resort, noted for its two picturesque golf courses, has long been the popular choice. Rooms have enormous windows that provide unbeatable views of Hanalei Bay, which can even be enjoyed from your whirlpool bath; the liquid-crystal panes of the bathroom windows turn opaque at the flip of a switch (princevillehotelhawaii.com).Helicopter RideFor the ultimate way to experience Kauai, you’ll want to take to the skies in a helicopter that hovers high above its mountains, deep valleys, cascading waterfalls and spectacular coastline. And since only three percent of the island is developed, it’s really the only way to see the interior, especially landmarks like the Waimea Canyon, a stunning 3,567-foot-deep gorge, and the Waialeale Crater, which is surrounded by a three-sided wall of waterfalls 3,000 feet high. Another amazing natural wonder: the southeastern side’s Wailua Falls, which has a 170-foot drop—actually higher than Niagara Falls. Island Helicopters offers a 50-minute pilot-narrated (and personalized) tour that departs from the Lihue Airport. Be sure to bring a light jacket—and, of course, your camera (slandhelicopters.com).Photography: (from top) Kauai Visitors Bureau; Andre Cottrim; Kauai Visitors Bureau; Princeville Resort; Princeville Resort; Kauai Visitors Bureau.

Hawaiian Road Trip

Tue, 11 Mar 2008 12:00:00 AM

With birds as bright as Popsicles, native pua kini’kini flowers bursting with fragrance, uninterrupted miles of amazing beaches and activities galore, the Hawaiian Islands are America’s tropical jewels. For luxury-resort seekers and avid golfers, none shines brighter than Maui, where world-class hotels and fairways line the island’s main roads. But there’s another side of Maui—one the locals know and savor—which is filled with rushing waterfalls, hidden historic towns and secluded freshwater pools deep in the jungle. Seeing it all requires a spirit of adventure. Here are three road trips that veer off the beaten path, skirt tight curves and follow unpaved stretches to reveal the island’s secret side. If you have an afternoon…Take the Upcountry DriveAfter soaking up some sun at the beach, take a break and head northwest to Maui’s Upcountry. Enjoy the cool mountain air as you cruise the country roads that snake past lavender farms, pineapple patches, sweet Kula onion groves and quiet towns along the slopes of the dormant volcano, Haleakala. When driving mauka (toward the mountains), you’ll see pastoral landscapes sprinkled with quaint farmhouses and canopied by clouds. As you make the 4,000-foot ascent, roll the windows down and take in the sweet scent of the area’s eucalyptus and jacaranda trees. (It can be chilly at such high elevations, so bring a sweater.) A left into Kula, halfway up the Haleakala Highway, will bring you into the clouds, where you’ll follow the signs for Haleakala Crater before making another left on the winding, bumpy Waipoli Road. When the greens and browns of the rural countryside suddenly give way to the color purple, you’ll know you’ve arrived at the Gardens of Ali’i Kula Lavender. Here, you can stroll through endless fields of lavender varietals and then enjoy an herb-centric snack of lavender tea and lavender scones. You can also pick up some relaxing lavender body lotion to take home as a memento of Maui (aliikulalavendergarden.com). If you’re in the mood for adventure, head to the paragliding launch pad, located just above the farm. The aerial experience, with seating for two, promises brilliant panoramic island views of verdant mountains and the lavender farm below. When you’re back on land, motor over to the nearby Tedeschi Vineyards on Ulupalakua Ranch to taste their sweet raspberry wine (mauiwine.com). Then make your way back makai (toward the sea). The return trip features bicoastal views of the north and south shores, flanked by the vibrant reds, yellows and greens of the central valley and the West Maui Mountains. Heading back down the Kula Highway, a left onto Omaopio Road will bring you to the Surfing Goat Dairy, one of the most popular cheese producers on the island. Sign up for the farm’s two-hour grand tour and try your hand at feeding and milking the goats before learning about the cheese-making process and tasting some samples (surfinggoatdairy.com). Or skip the cheese plate and stop for a bite to eat at the Haliimaile General Store, located between Paia and Makawao. Surrounded by pineapple fields and decorated with local art, the cozy eatery features an open kitchen and a menu full of signature dishes, like Szechwan barbecued salmon with orange peel and fresh herbs, Hunan rack of lamb marinated in sesame oil and passion fruit crème brûlée. Instead of taking the highway down to Central Maui, try the more scenic route that passes through Makawao and Haiku. The sleepy towns have old-fashioned architecture, shops and fantastic art galleries sure to transport visitors to the Hawaii of yore. And the New Age boutiques enhance the air of serenity that imbues these forested enclaves. In Haiku, savor the tropical jungle surroundings and enjoy getting lost among the many narrow streets that seem to lead to nowhere. From left: The vibrant Gardens of Ali'i Kula Lavender; a perfect place to take in the view; and a delicious dish served at Maui's Surfing Goat Dairy. Photography: Peter Liu Photography; Holger Leue; Surfing Goat Dairy.Where to Stay: Perched high above the green hills and the town of Kula is the Kula Lodge. The five rustic villas offer private lanais and, from the property’s lush gardens, sweeping views of the island of Lanai and the West Maui Mountains. Guests at the lodge enjoy delectable organic meals, featuring hand-picked herbs that are cooked in the property’s outdoor wood-burning oven (kulalodge.com). If you have an entire day…Take the West Maui DriveKnown as Hale Mahina (house of the moon), the West Maui Mountains provide splendid vistas from high above the rocky red cliffs. And from the jagged coastline down to the crashing surf, this is where you’ll find many of the island’s most vibrant colors and natural beauty. For example, if you make a short pit stop at the dirt path between mile markers 11 and 12, which is indicated by a large rock, you’ll be treated to an easy rain forest hike that concludes at the top of a raging waterfall. Feel the gentle spray as you marvel at the canopy of trees above. The Olivine Pools, found just before mile marker 16, take their name from the semiprecious gem encrusted in the area’s lava and sandstone. A blend of salt- and freshwater, these naturally formed swimming holes sit on a lava shelf that stretches along the coastline. Grab your snorkeling gear and paddle around the intriguing area, looking out for schools of yellow tang and colorful raccoon butterfly fish. Just past the busy shopping village of Lahaina (where you can stock up on food, water and gas), the highway delivers you straight into the heart of gleaming hills surrounded by black lava rock. And at mile marker 33, you’ll find the spectacular Honolua Bay, where world-class snorkeling and surfing among pristine reefs afford sights that are the stuff of legends. (There are no outfitters along the road, so you’ll need to bring your own gear.) Farther down the highway at mile marker 38, you’ll want to stop at Hobbit land (named for the unusual foliage) in Nakalele for a challenging hike past gnarled evergreen trees and stacks of balanced rocks placed by local fisherman to mark the path down to the sea cliffs. For an awesome sight, stay close to mile marker 38 and explore the Nakalele Blowhole area. A half-mile past the sign, visitors get a glimpse of the saltwater geyser. As waves crash, the geyser dramatically spouts between the rocks. Your stops needn’t be limited to nature. At mile marker 10 you can take a unique stroll through gardens of wood and bronze sculptures at the Bruce Turnbull Studio and Sculpture Garden (aejv.com). And get a taste of untouched island life at the remote village of Kahakuloa. Tucked in a crevice between two steep hills, with Kahakuloa Head mountain rising in the background, sits a clutch of weatherworn homes, vivid green taro patches and lush tropical gardens. Prior to Kahakuloa Village, at mile marker 41, the highway turns into a one-lane road. The roadway re-forms as Highway 340, and this is where the drive can become challenging. The space is so narrow that you’ll often see a line of cars backed up nearly 100 yards. (Note: Etiquette dictates the uphill driver reverse.)From left: A secluded Hawaiian beach is the closest thing to heaven; one of Maui's many picturesque—and winding—roadways; Maui's varied terrain. Photography: Holger Leue; Maui Visitors Bureau.Where to Stay: Located in the heart of Maui’s historic Lahaina town, the 19-room Plantation Inn is a romantic turn-of-the-century bed and breakfast. Each room is decorated with distinctive pieces that reflect the historic nature of the property. Perhaps the biggest draw is Gerard’s, the hotel’s fusion restaurant, which features such enticing selections as caramelized pork tenderloin with honey, sweet and sour rhubarb compote and a light banana purée (theplantationinn.com). If you have two days…Take the Hana DriveWith countless waterfalls, mysterious black-sand beaches, secluded freshwater pools and sweet kukui trees, the road...

10 Top Hawaii Adventures

Tue, 08 Jan 2008 12:00:00 AM

A romantic moment under one of Hawaii's many waterfalls. Photography: mauimediacenter.com.Endless tropical gardens, verdant mountains and uninterrupted stretches of beaches—yes, Hawaii is paradise on earth. And while such a setting is conducive to sitting back in the sand and sipping a piña colada, Hawaii’s varied terrain is ripe for active adventures. My husband and I tested out the options across six of the islands. Here are our favorites. MauiOn this geographically diverse island you can explore lavender farms, trek up soaring mountains, cycle down a dormant volcano, horseback ride along the beach or see it all from above. The best part is there are activities suitable for every fitness level. Hike We took the daylong rain forest hike with Maui Eco-Adventures, an experience made all the more authentic by a brief afternoon tropical downpour. Our adventure began with a Continental breakfast and delicious local coffee. Then our guide led us through the thick jungle foliage and pointed out banana and kukui nut trees and taro fields. We passed by gnarly banyan trees, deep green ferns and fragrant ti and ginger plants, and stopped for a refreshing dip in clear pools at the base of flowing waterfalls (ecomaui.com). A parasailing adventure in Maui. Photography: Courtesy of UFO Parasail/Ray Mains Photography.Parasail Although it only lasted 10 minutes, our adventure with UFO Parasailing above Maui’s western coast was truly an uplifting experience. After a short motorboat ride from Kaanapali Beach out into the ocean, we were strapped into our lifejackets and harnesses. We had decided to soar tandem, and clung to each other as the boat sped away and left us to gently ascend into air. We steadily rose to about 800 feet above the water. (My husband Bill stole a kiss as the folks in the boat clicked some photos.) The view was breathtaking: endless turquoise-blue ocean and towering mountains dotted with deep green foliage (ufoparasailing.com). OahuOahu offers the best of both worlds: big-city life and remote natural settings. By day, you can hike up the famous Diamond Head, shop at high-end boutiques and splash around at Waikiki Beach. Later, dance the night away at hip open-air clubs. Paddle Riding in an outrigger canoe is the ultimate active Hawaiian experience. The long narrow boats feature an extended hull and an oversize side rudder on the port (left) side for more stability. We hopped into a canoe with four other people and then paddled as hard as we could to get past the breaking waves. Then we spun the boat around and “surfed” the waves. After an exhilarating half hour, we decided to head back to shore and toast our accomplishments at Duke’s Barefoot Bar, in the Outrigger Waikiki on the Beach Hotel. We sipped our cocktails and examined all of the memorabilia and wall hangings dedicated to the bar’s namesake, Duke Kahanamoku, a legendary gold medalist in swimming, who is usually considered the father of modern surfing (outrigger.com). Deep in the sea, off the coast of Oahu. Photography: Courtesy of Oahu Visitors Bureau.Dive The most popular scuba excursion off Oahu is the ship dive with Breeze Hawaii Diving Adventures to the sunken Mahi, a converted World War II military boat. We descended nearly 90 feet below the surface and were treated to an unbeatable view of eagle rays and puffer fish, among other exotica. Some people in our group even spotted a shark and a lone sea turtle. And we all kept our eyes peeled for the spectacular multicolored humuhumunukunukuapua’a (yes, that is the longest word in the Hawaiian language), but these flashy fish were nowhere to be seen. Breeze Hawaii Diving Adventures also accommodates snorkelers, based on availability (breezehawaii.com). KauaiSince only 10 percent of the “Garden Isle” is accessible via Kauai’s lone road, hiking is the best way to explore its landscape. There are also perfect conditions for surfing one of the island’s beaches. A kayak excursion is a unique (and active) way to see the islands. Photography: Courtesy of Kauai Visitors Bureau/kauaidiscovery.com.Hike, Kayak and Zip Line “You’re gonna get wet. You’re gonna get dirty. And you’re gonna get over it,” said our instructor Ben as we embarked on a Kipu Falls safari excursion with Outfitters Kauai. And he was right! We had a blast trekking, paddling and zip lining throughout the island’s Huleia National Wildlife Refuge area, which just so happens to be the opening setting for Raiders of the Lost Ark. Our daylong adventure started with a two-mile kayak ride along the Huleia River. We paddled through crystalline water, then we tied up our boats and trekked over some waterfalls, splashed through pools of water, and hiked through lush tropical foliage before reaching a deep ravine where we zip lined across its 275 feet. It was a little scary at first, but once you realize how securely you’re tethered, you can fully enjoy the rush. (Some of our fellow adventurers even did somersaults as they passed overhead at 35 miles per hour!) Our outing also included a delicious picnic lunch, which we ate in a Swiss Family Robinson-type treehouse perched in the branches of an enormous Banyan tree (outfitterskauai.com). Surf We donned long-sleeved, yellow rash-guards (surf shirts) and took a lesson from Hawaiian Surfing Adventures. The outfitter offers a money-back guarantee that you’ll stand on your board. “We’ve never had anyone not get up,” claims owner Mitchell Alapa Sr. The first half hour of our session was dedicated to land lessons on water safety, proper form and pop-up drills. Then we hit the ocean for lots of paddling and the opportunity to surf. During the final hour of the class we tried to stand on our heavy foam boards as the waves passed beneath us. And, yes, we did rise to the occasion and felt the rush of gliding over the water, albeit for a brief moment (hawaiiansurfingadventures.com). Big IslandHere, you can enjoy black-sand beaches, lush interior forests and snow-topped mountains and get the blood pumping with adventures like hiking, cycling and skiing. Less strenuous, but equally enjoyable activities include stargazing and volcano viewing. View a Volcano “How often can you fly over an active volcano?” asks Jan Lovejoy of Blue Hawaiian Helicopters. This once-in-a-lifetime, two-hour tour soars over the island’s rain forests and mountains, but the most thrilling experience is the view of the Kilauea volcano. During the flight, we watched from above as the scarlet and tar-like molten lava slowly snaked its way toward the ocean (bluehawaiian.com). On top of the Big Island's Mauna Kea's snowy summit. Photography: Courtesy of the Big Island Vistors Bureau.Stargaze For an unforgettable sunset and stargazing experience, we signed up for the Mauna Kea Summit Adventures night excursion, which entailed piling into the tour guide’s van and climbing 9,000 feet up the mountain. At the top we found it was downright arctic, so we were grateful to be dressed in winter clothing. After dinner, we were treated to the evening show—the sunset—watching in awe as the fiery sun slipped beneath the ocean horizon. Then we watched the night sky and listened to an astronomy lecture given by our guide (maunakea.com). LanaiOn this small, lesser-known island, golf lovers score big with more than 20 championship holes spread across two courses, and offshore reefs offer visitors an unbeatable (and colorful) underwater spectacular. Snorkel We decided to head to Hulopoe Bay, a marine life conservation area on the island’s south coast, which is said to be among the best sites to snorkel in Hawaii.?We were treated to some awesome sightings of colorful parrot fish, rudder fish, delicate starfish and more vibrant sea creatures. A large pod of spinner dolphins often visits here, and in the winter you can...

Cruising the Hawaiian Islands

Fri, 04 Jan 2008 12:00:00 AM

NCL's Pride of Hawaii cruises to Oahu, the Big Island, Maui and Kauai. Photography: Courtesy of NCL Corporation.The fact that Hawaii is a special place goes without question. The natural tropical beauty is unsurpassed, the sun nearly always shines and the people are imbued with the spirit of aloha. Romance is literally in the air, and the islands invite a sense of adventure. It’s no wonder that Hawaii is one of the most popular honeymoon destinations on earth. But trying to decide which island to visit can be a bit daunting. Enter Norwegian Cruise Line, offering one-week sailings that stop at all four major islands—affording passengers the opportunity to see Maui’s fabulous beaches, Kauai’s lush greenery, the Big Island’s awesome active volcano and Oahu’s lively nightlife. Cruising TogetherThe NCL ships, Pride of America, Pride of Aloha and Pride of Hawaii each carry about 2,000 passengers and are similarly decorated in bright colors, tropical prints and Hawaiian artwork. The cabins are cozy and many have private balconies. There are more than a dozen bars onboard, including special ones that serve champagne and martinis exclusively. And entertainment options range from big band performances to stand-up comedy acts and over-the-top floorshows. (You won’t find any casinos, due to Hawaiian regulations). Onboard entertainment: a typical Hawaiian hula performance. Photography: Courtesy of NCL Corporation. The sailings offer “Freestyle Cruising,” a term coined to let you know that some standard formalities (such as set meal times and table mates) don’t exist here. Instead, you can choose from among 7 to 10 restaurants. One night you can enjoy Mexican and margaritas; on the next, all-you-can-eat sushi with sake. Watch as the amazing teppanyaki chefs expertly wield knives and prepare your dinner tableside or else linger over a plate of pasta in the casual Italian spot. Other onboard amenities include a spa, basketball courts, several pools and a large fitness center that offers classes like Spinning and Pilates. The ships also have samplings of Hawaiian culture, like hula performances, lei-making classes and storytelling sessions. But don’t miss the shore excursions! NCL offers dozens of them, ranging from sightseeing tours of historic attractions and folk museums to adventures on the best beaches and a sunrise cycling outing at Maui’s Haleakala Crater. Here’s the ultimate insider’s day-by-day look at the amazing week-long adventure (ncl.com). Day one: Waikiki Beach, Oahu One of the many cozy places to relax on deck. Photography: Courtesy of NCL Corporation.The cruise starts at Oahu, home to Hawaii’s capital city, Honolulu, and the famed Waikiki Beach. Arrive a day early to take advantage of the island’s offerings. By day, Waikiki Beach and its white-tipped waves are bustling with surfers, swimmers and sun seekers—even at 7 a.m. Walk the promenade that passes the row of towering high-rise hotels, small shops and various restaurants, while affording a spectacular view of nearby Diamond Head. You can climb Diamond Head, via a trail that’s less than a mile long. Warning: The path can be steep at times. But stick with it and you’re promised an awesome view of all of Waikiki Beach, Honolulu’s expansive skyline and the vast Pacific. Then rent a convertible and hit the two-lane coastal highway for a ride around the island. On the four-hour trip, you’ll discover the North Shore’s low-key beaches and natural scenic outposts. But do keep an eye on the time, so you’re back to board the ship. Day two: Hilo, the Big Island Hiking on one of Hawaii's volcanos. Photography: Ron Dahlquist/ mauimediacenter.com.After a night of sailing, you’ll arrive at Hilo, a small town on the east coast of Hawaii’s Big Island. Don’t be surprised if it’s a bit overcast when you dock; rain is common on this part of the island, but it’s generally light and shouldn’t prevent you from taking the ship’s volcano-viewing excursion. Immediately after disembarking, you’ll meet a local guide for a 40-minute drive to Volcanoes National Park, home of the active Kilauea. You’ll note the slightly bitter smell of sulfur as your guide leads you on an easy walk through the park’s rain forest and past giant craters, near jagged cliffs suspended high above the sea and onto barren, black rock. You may feel some warmth from steam vents underfoot, so you’ll want to wear sneakers—your cue that under the surface lava is bubbling. And the slight crunch beneath your feet reminds you how fragile the earth is and what’s going on down below. (Volcanic activity has been taking place here for about 70 million years!) Finally, from a distance, you’ll see it—the restless Kilauea. It looks just as a volcano should, with a cone-shaped top, dramatic orange sparks and deep scarlet, molten lava. Nearby you’ll see a small patch of road leading to nowhere—all that’s left of a main roadway that was covered by lava in an eruption in 2003. It’s a reminder of the fact that the island is still being formed and that you’re witnessing the creation. Future generations will see a different island, with new land masses and new beaches formed by black ash.Those who prefer to stay onboard can still catch the amazing nature show at night. Enroute to the next port the captain positions the ship so everyone can see the erupting volcano. Gather on deck and watch the fiery bright orange lava flowing and spurting above the dark sea into the star-filled sky. And listen as a native storyteller presents a traditional prayer to the goddess of fire, Madame Pele, over the ship’s loudspeakers. Days three and four: MauiTo give you enough time to see as much as possible, the ship overnights in Maui. Take a morning to walk around historic Lahaina, home to the largest banyan tree in the country, then head to the Kaanapali coast for some snorkeling. Or take a boat excursion to view humpback whales in Honolua Bay. In the center of the island, you can explore the Iao Valley State Park’s amazing tropical gardens (there’s one dedicated entirely to orchids) and towering rock formations (some say that one resembles John F. Kennedy). Golfers will want to hit the south shore for challenging courses with sea views. And then there’s the can’t-miss attraction: the Road to Hana. The 52-mile, one-lane highway curls and climbs through mountains, past numerous waterfalls and the sparkling ocean, ending at the island’s legendary black beaches. From the port of Kahului, where the ship docks, it’s about a 45-minute-drive to Lahaina, Hawaii’s capital when it was a kingdom. The town’s main road, Front Street, is lined with colorful 19th-century buildings that house galleries and shops. You can learn about the island’s past on a stroll around the town’s historic area. Stop at the Lahaina Heritage Museum for photos and interactive exhibits about whaling traditions. Active travelers can live out their surf fantasies on an excursion. Surfing lessons are held on a small strip of beach at the edge of Lahaina. The two-hour sessions start with land lessons on how to stand up on the board. Then you’ll hit the water to wait for waves and more instruction. Lying down on the board, you’ll paddle as fast as you can before popping to your feet. It’s hard work—more than you may expect—but the rush of riding a wave makes it well worth the effort. Another popular Maui ritual is watching the sun come up over the 10,000-foot Haleakala Crater, a sacred ancient site. The ship offers a cycling excursion at the top of the dormant volcanic crater before dawn. (Guides drive you and the bikes to the summit in a van.) It can get chilly up there before sunrise, but what better excuse to snuggle? Once the sun’s up, you’ll glide down the mountainside on bikes. Day five: Kona, the Big Island A kayak excursion's unique persepective. Photography: Courtesy of the Big Island Visitors Bureau.Kona, located on the west coast of the Big Island, is an active little city famous for its locally grown coffee. The bustling...

Pure Hawaii Honeymoon

Sun, 04 Nov 2007 12:00:00 AM

There are lots of beautiful beaches in the world, so, sure, relaxing in the sand with nothing more on your mind than whether it’s time to reapply sunscreen does have its appeal. But among all the tropical paradises, Hawaii holds a special place. And it isn’t only the magnificent scenery, the inviting crystalline water or the always-perfect temperature that makes these islands unique—it’s also the sense of history and the hospitality of the people. A visit here offers a multitude of unforgettable sights, sounds and tastes. We found the 10 only-in-Hawaii experiences that no visitor should miss.1. Hang tenQuick—what is the first image that comes to mind when we say “Hawaii”? If it’s surfers skimming across waves, why not learn how to do it yourself? You may not be ready for the mega swells of Oahu’s famed North Shore, but the gentle, rolling sets at Waikiki Beach offer great conditions for newbies. Take a lesson with Clyde Aikau—who has been recognized as a “Waikiki Surf Legend” by the historic Outrigger Duke Paoa Kahanamoku Foundation—and you’ll learn basic moves, wave selection and in-water etiquette. Aikau’s Pure Hawaiian Surf Academy offers lessons at the beach at the Hilton Hawaiian Village (hiltonhawaiianvillage.com). 2. Hone your hulaWatch a hula performance and you’ll see rhythmically swinging hips and graceful arm movements that alternately simulate swaying trees, frolicking fish and birds in flight. Traditionally (and before the Hawaiians developed a written language), hula was the way history and stories were passed on through the generations. Each Wednesday morning, guests at the Royal Hawaiian on Waikiki Beach in Oahu have the opportunity to learn this ancient and alluring dance from Shelsea Ai Apana, a fourth-generation dancer. At the end of the hour-long class, you’ll not only be surprised at how good a workout you’ve gotten (plan on discovering a few muscles along your waist you never knew you had), but you’ll also learn the message and meaning behind each movement and song. Or you can get inspired by attending the Merrie Monarch Festival, the annual Super Bowl of hula contests, where the best halaus (hula schools) from all the islands compete in a six-day tournament. The festival begins on Easter Sunday in Hilo on the Big Island (royal-hawaiian.com; merriemonarchfestival.org). 3. Luau like royaltyThough you can find a luau at just about every resort in Hawaii, the Old Lahaina Luau on Maui is widely regarded as the best and most authentic in the islands. The evening starts with a lei greeting and tropical cocktails served under swaying palms. Then the star attraction, the kalua pig, is brought out from the imu, the traditional underground oven in which it has been slowly roasting all day. At the buffet dinner, in addition to the succulent pig, you can sample local delicacies like ahi poke (marinated raw ahi tuna), pohole salad (fern shoots) and poi (Taro pudding-like dish). Once the sun sets, the evening’s entertainment begins, with a program that recounts the exciting history of Hawaii in song and dance (reservations are required; 800-248-5828).4. Get lei’dHawaiians often speak of the aloha spirit, the warm, welcoming embrace extended by islanders to everyone who visits. This spirit is best expressed through the tradition of giving leis. You can learn to create your own floral garlands using traditional flowers like colorful orchids and fragrant plumeria, bougainvillea and pikake, or with native kukui nuts, feathers and ferns at the Hilton Hawaiian Village Beach Resort & Spa in Honolulu (classes are complimentary for hotel guests; hiltonhawaiianvillage.com). 5. See the sun and starsHere’s a secret: One of the most romantic and amazing spots to watch the sunset in Hawaii isn’t from a warm spot on the sand. In fact, you’ll have to put on a down parka and gloves if you take one of Mauna Kea Summit Adventures’ van tours up to the snow-capped top of Mauna Kea on the Big Island. With the summit at 13,796 feet, you’ll watch up close as the sun slips beneath the clouds, bathing the sky in gorgeous streaks of pink, purple, red and orange. After sunset, the astronomer-guides set up powerful telescopes that will give you spectacular views of the night sky. Take plenty of snapshots of the two of you bundled up in cold-weather gear—your friends and family will get a kick out of trying to figure out how your tropical holiday took a detour through the Arctic (maunakea.com).6. Ride the rangeRounding up cattle on horseback isn’t usually associated with the islands where sand and surf rule, but Hawaii has a cowboy tradition dating back to the early 1800s. In fact, the first Hawaiian cowboys, or paniolos, were working on ranches long before their more celebrated counterparts in the American West yippeed their first ki-yay. Several of the family-owned ranches still exist as working ranches. One, the 65,000-acre Molokai Ranch, offers accommodations in a luxury 22-room lodge and lessons in horse grooming, saddling and riding in the property’s rodeo arena. Once you’re comfortable on horseback, you can try your hand at herding cattle or take in the spectacular tropical scenery as you ride along the two-mile Kanaa trail (molokairanch.com).Although you can’t stay at the 2,500-acre Princeville Ranch on Kauai, you can participate in the property’s Paniolo Cattle Drive. The hour-and-a-half roundup takes place every 5 to 10 days, when the herds of cattle need to be moved to new pastures (adventureskauai.com).Ferry NiceWhat’s eco-friendly, superscenic and big enough to carry 282 cars? The new Hawaii Superferry, which offers daily service from the island of Oahu to Maui and Kauai. Launched in July, the 349-foot ship, which can seat 866 passengers, offers onboard amenities like wireless Internet access, meal service and an arcade. Clocking in at three hours, the service may take longer than interisland flights, but the benefits, like price, uninterrupted ocean views and bringing your car along make it worth the time. Plus, you don’t have to wait on those long security lines at the airports. 877-443-3779; hawaiisuperferry.com. 7. Go historicThe story of Hawaii’s ancient past is evident in the music, dance and language of the people. But it’s also written and preserved in petroglyphs, carvings and inscriptions found on the dark volcanic rock along the Kohala coast area of the Big Island. Made by the island’s earliest inhabitants, the glyphs depict everyday life as well as wildlife. Walk along the one-mile King’s Trail, an ancient coastal path once utilized by Hawaiian royalty, and you’ll feel as though you’ve taken a step into the area’s folklore. The Kings’ Shops at Waikoloa Beach Resort offer free one-hour guided tours daily. Also available are Hawaiian arts and crafts classes, where local elders teach traditional skills, such as coconut-frond weaving, feather-crafting, Hawaiian quilting and woodworking (waikoloabeachresort.com).8. Learn the ukuleleSugarcane workers from Portugal introduced this small instrument to Hawaii in the 1880s and it’s now closely associated with the island’s indigenous music. Since the ukulele has just four strings and a straightforward chord progression, learning how to pluck a simple tune is surprisingly easy. Every Friday, the award-winning musician and founding father of contemporary island music, Kelly Boy DeLima, hosts poolside ukulele classes at the Sheraton Waikiki on Oahu. After class you can show off your strumming skills when Kelly Boy invites you to join him during his nightly stage show (classes and entertainment are complimentary for hotel guests; sheraton-waikiki.com). 9. Taste the wineJust an hour’s drive from Maui’s main resort areas of Wailea and Kaanapali,...

Secret Hawaii

Sun, 15 Jul 2007 12:00:00 AM

Honeymoon in Hawaii and you're guaranteed the ideal island paradise: secret coves, exotic flowers, expansive beaches and fresh fruit breakfasts. For a uniquely Hawaiian escape, stay in a small ohana (family) inn or B&B. We toured the islands in search of authentic experiences and discovered bungalow properties tucked in the hills, beach hideaways and quiet, historic guesthouses. From a four-room country inn on Kauai to a charming hotel on tiny Lanai, these special spots all have a few things in common—friendly hosts, magnificent views, relaxed settings, the ultimate in privacy and the promise of a honeymoon packed with positive vibes. MauiThanks to rolling hills, jungle valleys, top-notch beaches, numerous waterfalls and activities galore, Maui is most often named the visitors' favorite. Seclusion seekers score big at rarely visited swimming areas, remote tropical gardens and backcountry ranches. Though most of the accessories and furniture at Ho'oilo House are imported from Bali, this six-room B&B couldn't be more Hawaiian. Each of the large suites has natural stone floors, large custom-made soaking tubs and outdoor showers made from locally sourced black lava rock in its indoor-outdoor bathrooms. The rooms have dozens of windows for maximum light and views, and some have their own lanais. On a clear day you can spot Molokai, the island across the channel from Maui. To tap into the peacefulness of the island, spend some time at the inn's meditation gazebo or take a hike to a waterfall on the property. Your hosts, Dan and Amy, can arrange any off-site activities and excursions (138 Awaiku St., Lahaina; hooilohouse.com). Stay at the Aloha Cottage in Makawao for the utmost in getting away from it all. Completely sequestered (they don't disclose the address until you've booked), the Cottage is actually two bungalows, nestled in the green hills and trees of Maui's up-country. The octagonal Bali Bungalow is approached by a stairway with a carved bamboo archway; once inside, you have 360-degree views of bamboo, banana and eucalyptus trees and the ocean beyond. A large skylight over the king-size bed makes for great stargazing. The second bungalow, called the Thai Tree House, is large and spacious, with high open-beam ceilings, plenty of windows and a wraparound bamboo deck that overlooks the property's eucalyptus grove (address given upon reservation; alohacottage.com). Big IslandThe largest island in the chain has a diverse topography that ranges from pristine beaches and lush tropical rain forests to an active volcano and a snowy (!) mountain peak called Mauna Kea. Visitors to Hawaii (the actual name of the island) enjoy a relaxed atmosphere and a range of amazing and undiscovered natural sites.Located in the rain forest of the northeast Hamakua Coast is Waianuhea, an eco-friendly and entirely self-contained property that utilizes solar power and catchment water. As you wind your way down twisting dirt roads, you may wonder what you’ve gotten yourself into—but this five-room luxury inn is well worth the trek. The hexagon-shaped house is surrounded by tall green grass and palm trees, and dotted with fishing ponds and gardens. You’ll even find some gentle wild horses grazing here.Each room has a large soaking tub, a featherbed and down comforters (trust us, it does get chilly at night). Beautiful antique Hawaiian prints and furniture blend with modern accessories like flat-screen TVs equipped with cable and DVD players.At breakfast everyday, as well as at a wine and hors d’oeuvres hour every evening, guests and hosts come together to chat about the day’s activities and tomorrow’s plans (waianuhea.com).When you decide to check out Kilauea Volcano in Volcanoes National Park (which has been erupting steadily since 1983), stay at the Volcano Teapot Cottage. Located on three acres of a volcanic rain forest, this charming but hard-to-book turn-of-the-century cottage has two bedrooms, a claw-foot tub and plenty of comfy chairs and couches.The full kitchen comes stocked with breakfast foods, including tropical juices, fruit and locally made pastries, jams, jellies and coffee. In the afternoon, lounge on the porch and watch thermal mists waft through the forest. Nighttime is the right time to catch awesome lava shows.Jump in a jeep or walk a mile toward the Kilauea eruption area, and you’ll see red molten lava seeping out of black lava crust and flowing into the ocean. The fiery liquid flows downhill, gathering speed before hitting the water, often with a bang. It’s also common to see large red puddles—called lava lakes—floating on the ocean volcanoteapot.com).OahuAs home to 75% of the population of the entire island chain, Oahu has well-known museums, efficient public transportation, unparalleled shopping and world-class dining. The north shore retains a local vibe with hidden coral bays, pristine beaches and majestic mountain cliffs that overlook residents-only surf spots.It’s easy to imagine wealthy Hawaiians and European expats smoking pipes and listening to 78 r.p.ms on the Victrola in the eight-room, five-bath Manoa Valley Inn. The house is furnished with Hawaiian antiques, and each guest room is named after a different figure in Hawaiian history. The Dole, for example, gets its name from James Dole, the owner of the pineapple plantation that once occupied the entire island of Lanai.For extra peace and quiet, book the Alexander Cottage. The small bungalow, located in the back garden, has a private bath and full-size antique bed (manoavalleyinn.com).When the younger generation of the Hawaiian family that owns and operates Lanikai Bed & Breakfast took over, they refinished the hardwood floors, updated the furnishings and added luxury touches like ceramic soaking tubs and cable TV and DVD players. The Garden Studio is a secluded, separate cottage with its own entrance and patio, full kitchen stocked with breakfast items and a large teak and bamboo bed; there’s also artwork by local artists, high, open-beam ceilings, dozens of windows and a spacious lanai.Since the cottage is surrounded by fragrant ginger and ti plants, you’ll feel as if you’re in the middle of a rain forest, when in fact you’re only 100 yards from one of the island’s best white sand beaches. Your hosts, Rick and Nini, provide beach towels, a cooler and beach chairs (1277 Mokulua Dr., Kailua; lanikaibeachrentals.com).KauaiThe aptly named garden island has an escapist vibe that’s reflected in the fact that there’s only one road here. Visitors spend their days hiking in the island’s canyon, swimming in the sparkling ocean and marveling at rainbows.The Secret Beach Hideaway sits on 35 private beachfront acres of Kauai’s north shore. The property’s beach, called Secret Beach, is one of the most beautiful and romantic on the island. Two cottages are available, Hale Lani and Hale Nanea, on either end of the property. These one-bedroom bungalows are equipped with high-thread-count sheets, a hot tub, a television and DVD player, a Sub-Zero fridge and designer cookware.Made of Kauai coral stone, Hale Lani is perched on a grassy knoll; inside, the cottage is all light colors and maple woods, accented with colorful Hawaiian artwork and Asian-inspired furniture. An entire wall of the bedroom consists of floor-to-ceiling glass doors with fabulous views of the garden and ocean. The bathroom boasts a two-person marble shower, an outdoor garden shower and a sunken tub situated on a stone patio.Hale Nanea is equally stunning, with breathtaking ocean and mountain vistas and a secluded tropical garden with a deep soaking tub (address given upon reservation; ecretbeachkauai.com).The location, views and, indeed, the feel of the Kauai Country Inn are very Hawaiian, yet it has a charming quirkiness. Set in a peaceful mountain valley, minutes from the beach, the four-suite retreat...

Hawaii Festivals & Special Events

Sun, 13 May 2007 12:00:00 AM

When newlyweds arrive in Hawaii, they're naturally in the mood to celebrate. So it's lucky for them that the people who live in the "Aloha State" (which includes the Big Island of Hawaii, Maui, Oahu, Kauai, Lanai and Molokai) are almost always throwing a great party somewhere—and are happy to welcome a few more guests. In fact, honeymooners can find fantastic events on these islands every month of the year, highlighting everything from culture and food to sports and the great outdoors. This list showcases a few favorite celebrations on the Hawaiian calendar. Consider yourself invited!January: Ka Molokai Makahiki FestivalTranquil, laid-back Molokai, which is officially dubbed "The Friendly Island," takes its "authentically Hawaiian" status very seriously: Locals there tend to refer to the island by its more unofficial monikers—the "Most Hawaiian" isle, or the place where "Old Hawaii" lives on. Their pride in Molokai's Hawaiian roots is what makes the island's celebration of the ancient festival of Makahiki, a four-month season of thanksgiving for the harvest, a unique opportunity for visitors to learn about and participate in traditional Hawaiian culture.The season of Makahiki begins when the Seven Sisters constellation appears in the fall and concludes when those stars disappear from the night sky, usually in January. On Molokai, the final weeks of the season are marked by the island's low-frills, high-enthusiasm Ka Molokai Makahiki Festival. A range of events is scheduled throughout the month, giving visitors the chance to hear scholars lecture on local history and folklore, to participate in hands-on workshops teaching traditional Hawaiian craft-making, or to watch as local children and adults alike compete in oli (chant) writing contests and ancient sports (the huki huki, a form of tug-of-war, is especially popular with children).Whichever events visitors decide to attend, the festival will give them an unforgettable insider's perspective on life in these islands—as well as a look at the local efforts to honor and preserve Hawaii's ancient but still thriving Polynesian culture. For more information, go to gohawaii.com/molokai.February: Chinese New Year and the Narcissus FestivalOahu is home to a large Asian-American population, made up of people from all over the Orient. In Honolulu, that community’s cultural center is based in the 15 blocks that make up the city’s Chinatown. This once down-at-the-heels neighborhood has experienced a resurgence in the past few years, and trendy shops, cafés, clubs, museums and galleries now sit side by side with Asian markets, Buddhist temples and Hawaiian lei shops.During the month-long celebration of the Chinese New Year, which in 2007 falls on February 18th, Chinatown comes alive with a host of events spotlighting Chinese culture, including a local celebration called the Narcissus Festival. The festivities kick off with the Lion Dance ceremony, a thousand-year-old tradition in which people don huge, multicolored silk “lion” costumes and perform in the street, and winds up with the local (and, at 51 years old, much newer) tradition of the Narcissus Queen’s coronation ball. Between those events there are free open-air concerts, a dragon parade, fireworks, a pageant to select the queen, fashion shows and an arts fair—more than enough cool stuff to make a day or an evening spent celebrating the arrival of the “Year of the Pig” unforgettable. For more information on Chinatown and the Chinese New Year celebrations, go to chinatownhi.com.March: Ocean Arts FestivalEach year, between the months of November and May, hundreds of humpback whales arrive in the waters around Hawaii. They’re drawn there—particularly to the area between the islands of Maui and Lanai—because the warm, shallow conditions are ideal for whales to mate and give birth. Protected by myriad conservation laws, the massive mammals are quasi-celebrities in Hawaii: The sight of the peaceful creatures surfacing offshore can literally stop the traffic on waterfront roads. To see the leviathans up close, a whale-watching cruise for travelers during March is a must. (You can find out more about these trips at pacificwhale.org.)Visitors can also join the fun at the Ocean Arts Festival on Maui, which is held at Banyan Tree Park. Local craftspeople and artists from all over the island gather to compete in contests for the best whale-themed art (there’s art for purchase as well). Hula troupes and Hawaiian musicians perform, naturalists give talks on the life of the humpback, and ocean-themed films are screened. Be sure to find out the year’s whale-sighting tally, which is scrutinized throughout the state the way baseball fans analyze stats from the World Series. For more information, go to gohawaii.com.April: Merrie Monarch FestivalOn the Big Island, April brings one of the most colorful events of the year: the Merrie Monarch Festival. The weeklong happening, which celebrates local traditions, is held in honor of King David Kalakaua (nicknamed—you guessed it—the “Merrie Monarch”). He devoted his 20-year reign to restoring Hawaiian traditions, such as hula and its accompanying chant, which Calvinist missionaries had attempted to suppress during the 19th century.This festival starts each year on Easter Sunday (in 2007, that’s April 8th) with a concert on Coconut Island. Throughout the week, there are daily musical or hula performances, an arts-and-crafts fair and a parade. The hula competitions, which take place on Thursday, Friday and Saturday, are the showcase events—troupes come from all over the world to enter contests in the “Ancient,” “Modern,” “Solo” and “Troupe” divisions, earning this forty-year-old party the title “The Super Bowl of Hula.” Tickets for the contests can be tough to get, so if you miss out, head to the hula exhibition held on Wednesday night at Edith Kanakaole Tennis Stadium. For more information, go to merriemonarchfestival.org.Sixty years ago, a group of Jaycees in Honolulu suggested a week of festivities to celebrate Hawaii’s culture, calling the party they’d created “Aloha Week.” Today, that weeklong event has expanded to become a two-month-long blowout, with over 300 events held on all of Hawaii’s islands. Offerings run the gamut, from the serious to the wacky, for example The Big Island’s Poke Contest (poke is Hawaiian-style sushi—raw fish accented with artful combinations of spices), where spectators get to taste the entries after the judging is complete; Oahu’s Downtown Mele—a Honolulu street fair featuring food, dance and musical performances; Maui’s popular ukulele contest; and Lanai’s annual Barbecue Competition. For more information, go to alohafestivals.com.May: Lei DayLeis—gorgeous garlands made of flowers, feathers, shells and other natural items—were sacred to ancient Hawaiians (originally, only royalty were permited to wear them). Today these floral creations have become practically synonymous with the islands. Leis are so central to the islands’ identity, in fact, that in the 1920s, a local poet suggested Hawaiians celebrate the fragrant icon with a holiday in its honor, and the community quickly agreed. So on the first of May each year, when other places in the world celebrate May Day, Hawaiians pay tribute to spring’s arrival with Lei Day. Kids hold pageants and performances at school, and adults mark the day by giving and wearing leis.The high point of the festivities, especially for visitors, is the lei-making competitions that take place on all the islands. On Kauai, for example, the Kaui Museum fills its galleries with exhibits made by local craftspeople, offering the floral creations for sale in a silent auction. And in Honolulu, hundreds of people stand in line to see the entries submitted in the annual lei-making contest, to talk to the artists who created them, and, possibly, to purchase a lei to take home. If you won’t be there by May 1st, fear not: Lei Day celebrations usually extend through the first two weeks...

Maui on Any Budget

Wed, 14 Mar 2007 12:00:00 AM

Maui has it all: abundant natural beauty, with gorgeous beaches, clear blue ocean and lush rain forests, plus a fantastic array of manmade attractions—great restaurants, resorts and spas. All those options also mean that it's the kind of place where a couple can create a once-in-a-lifetime honeymoon experience that's a perfect fit for their interests and their budget. To help you do just that, we went looking for Maui's most wonderful splurges and coolest steals. First, we created a list of things that honeymooners look for, from hotel rooms, restaurants and water sports to terrific spa treatments, nightlife and souvenirs. Then we found amazing choices at both ends of the price spectrum. Now all that's left for you to do is to decide where you want to bargain hunt and where you'll go all out.Where to StaySplurge: Set on manicured grounds in a posh area of Maui's beachfront, the Four Seasons Maui at Wailea is an upscale oasis. The hotel's elegant pool area typifies the resort's relaxed but luxurious style, with tented white cabanas, an impressive fountain and, for added fun, excellent celeb spotting (Britney, that means you!). Inside, guest rooms are all about comfort, with beds so inviting that the likes of Oprah and Julia Roberts are rumored to have purchased them for their homes. Each room also has a coffeemaker stocked with whole beans and boasts super-deep marble bathtubs and DVD players.An added bonus: The staff has pampering service down to a science; it seems that wherever you go at this spectacular resort, there's someone at the ready, to spritz you while you sunbathe at the pool or to offer palate-cleansing Popsicles on the beach. The attention to the details of your stay will leave you feeling just as much an A-lister as anyone you'll spot from your chaise. Imagine this: If you wear your little black dress when you dine alfresco at the hotel's poolside Ferraro's restaurant, you'll get a black napkin, so you don't wind up with white-napkin lint on your outfit! (fourseasons.com/maui)Steal: Looking at The Kaanapali Alii from the silky sands of its tranquil beachfront, it may appear to be nothing more than a plain-Jane condo complex. But if you're in the market for a great getaway deal, this resort is a beauty-pageant winner. Each of its 264-number units (ranging from 1,500 to 1,900 square feet) is individually decorated and must meet certain standards for style, convenience and comfort). Feel-at-home features include a fitness center, kitchens and in-suite laundry. Factor in such resort amenities as daily maid service, a concierge, beach cabanas and signing privileges at nearby hotels, including the Westin (you can charge bills at their restaurants or spas to your condo, as if you were a guest at the hotel), and you've got a terrific bargain (kaanapali-alii.com).Lunch BreakSplurge: A midday meal at O’o Farm in Kula gives food enthusiasts the unusual opportunity to see their lunch’s origins before savoring the meal in an all-natural setting. First, guests are served appetizers while they meet and chat with the chef in the kitchen. Then they head out on a farm tour with a culinary specialist, who describes indigenous plants and helps them choose the ingredients—herbs, strawberries, mulberries, Maui onions, leeks, red beets and marigolds, among many others—that will be used to create their meals. They can even select the fresh fish to be used in their entrées. Finally, surrounded by farmland on the cool Kula slopes, they will sit down for their meal at a rustic picnic table (pacificomaui.com).Steal: If you want great fish for a few (ahem) clams, head to Alexander’s Fish, Chicken and Chips, a local haunt located next to the outdoor market in Kihei (there are also locations in Lahaina and Kahului). These unpretentious, laid-back outposts’ motto is “great food fast at fast-food-prices.” Everything here, from the onion rings to the tempura batter, is made from scratch daily, and only top-notch ingredients are used. After your meal, shop for more bargains at the market (840 Wainee St.;alexandersfish.com).Dinner DelightsSplurge: You haven’t done “I’m a tourist in Hawaii” until you’ve been to a luau, and the one to lust after is the award-winning Old Lahaina Luau. Set in an oceanfront area just a 10-minute walk from the harbor, this three-hour feast features amazing Polynesian food—everything from pork roasted in an imu (an oven in a below-ground pit) to haupia (coconut custard), all served at long wooden picnic tables on the sand. The torch-lit entertainment includes beautiful male and female dancers, in grass skirts and vibrant handmade costumes, who “tell,” through dance, the traditional stories of Hawaii, such as how the ancient Tahitians migrated to the Hawaiian Islands in canoes. It’s quite a show, with the Tahitian tamure, a rapid dance that is performed to pounding drums, one of the sexiest spectacles you will ever see (1251 Front St.; oldlahainaluau.com).Steal: Saigon Café in Wailuku is a huge hit with locals. It’s even attracted a few celebs, including Barbra Streisand, Woody Harrelson and Clint Eastwood, who show up to enjoy delectable Vietnamese cuisine, cooked by owner and chef Jennifer Nguyen. Favorite menu items include grilled shrimp pops on a skewer, served in thin rice paper and complemented with fresh cilantro, carrots, cucumber and mint, and Buddha rolls, a delicious blend of jicama (a vegetable similar to celery), tofu, roasted peanuts, basil, Maui onions and carrots, wrapped in rice paper and served with a tasty peanut dipping sauce. To find the café, remember to look for the big star on top of the building—it doesn’t have a sign (1792 Main St.; 808-243-9560).Sweet TreatsSplurge: After strolling and shopping on historic Front Street in the port of Lahaina, a slice of Hula Pie at Kimo’s, a favorite tourist eatery, is decadent in every way. Though this dessert, made fresh daily, almost defies description, here goes: a huge triangular portion of Dreyer’s macadamia-nut ice cream on an Oreo-cookie crust, topped with a thick layer of chocolate fudge and capped with whipped cream. You didn’t really want to wear that bikini, did you? (845 Front St; 808-661-4811).Steal: Scoop’s, a cute little ice cream shop on Front Street, is tough to top. For a cone with real local flavor, order one with Lappert’s Kauai Pie. This Hawaiian treat is a rich mix of Kona coffee ice cream laced with chunks of fudge, slivers of coconut and macadamia nuts (888 Front St., Lahaina; 808-661-5632).Beach TimeSplurge: At Kaanapali Beach, an award-winning strand that fronts Whalers Village and is packed with locals and vacationers, you can take a parasailing excursion: After you’ve put on a lifejacket and are harnessed into a parachute, you’ll be towed by a boat manned by an expert captain and crew member. You’ll then soar about 400 feet in the air for seven minutes, or 800 feet for 10 minutes. If you fly in tandem, you can take along a “Just Maui-ed” sign and capture the moment in photos—c’mon, you know you want to (ufoparasailing.com).Steal: Po’olenalena Beach in Makena (on Wailea Alanui Road, next to the Maui Prince Hotel) has everything a beach lover craves: clear waters, a sandy beach, lava rocks and even showers. And best of all, it’s often deserted. Bring a picnic lunch and dine under the tall palm trees for an unforgettable afternoon. Part of the reason the beach is so secluded is that you have to put in a little effort to get there, venturing through brush and over some rocks. Don’t worry, though, you aren’t trespassing—all of Hawaii’s beaches are free and open to the public.On the WaterSplurge: Take a private surfing...

Six Spectacular Beaches

Thu, 27 Jul 2006 12:00:00 AM

The numbers are impressive: With a combined coastline of almost 725 miles, Hawai'i's most visited islands (Oahu, Maui, Lanai, Molokai, Kauai and the Big Island of Hawai'i) present honeymooners with so many sandy options that they could visit a different beach every day for a year and still not come close to seeing them all. Because you probably won't have that much time on your honeymoon, we suggest you leave the heavy sifting to us. We've narrowed our list to six spectacular strands, each of which offers a uniquely Hawaiian experience. A Surfing SafariWaikiki Beach, OahuNewbies and wave warriors alike are stoked by the swells surrounding the island of Oahu, which has the largest number of surfing spots—almost 600—in all of Hawai'i. If you're ready to give surfing a shot, head to happening Waikiki Beach, where gentle, one- and two-foot-high turquoise waves pose ideal conditions year-round for getting your surfer legs.On Waikiki Beach, you can take a one-hour surfing lesson from Didi Robello, one of several second-generation "Waikiki beachboys" manning the service stands scattered along the two-mile-long shore, and learn the basics. (Ask for Didi at Aloha Beach Services, near the Sheraton Moana Surfrider Hotel; 808-922-3111 ext. 2341.) When you're ready to take it to the next level, you can get in-depth pointers from a former pro surfer by contacting the Hans Hedemann Surf School, located on this beach; your pro will whisk you to and from spectacular surfing spots around Oahu, according to the day's surf conditions (hhsurf.com).More of a voyeur? Drive along Interstate H2 and the Kamehameha Highway (State 83) to Oahu's less populated North Shore. Roughly an hour from Waikiki, this reef-protected, 20-mile-long coastline boasts some of the world's best surfing sites—including the broad, crescent-shaped Waimea Bay Beach County Park, the straight-edged Sunset Beach, Rocky Point (a favorite for surfers practicing risky, freestyle moves) and the Banzai Pipeline (where Blue Crush was filmed). Get there around 9 a.m., when surfing (and viewing) conditions are in their prime, and prepare to be thrilled as you watch the experts take on the big waves. Professional competitions, held here in the winter months, when multistory waves pummel these shores like a heavyweight prizefighter, are truly unforgettable. (Call 808-596-SURF for details.) Whale-WatchingMakena Beach, MauiHoneymooners aren't the only ones flocking to the Hawaiian Islands for warm weather and romance. Between late October and mid-May, nearly 3,500 North Pacific humpbacks head to Hawai'i to mate. February and March are peak whale-viewing months, but you can see whales in Maui County (an area that includes the islands of Maui, Lanai and Molokai) about 180 days per year.Technically, you don't even have to board a boat to spot them—last year, the antics of male humpbacks showing off for the ladies actually created traffic jams among West Maui's mesmerized drivers. However, it's most fun to see whales from the sand. The 100-foot-wide, honey-colored Makena Beach, affectionately called "Big Beach" by kama'aina (locals), is a prime whale-spotting strand. Head over in the early morning or at sunset for the best viewing conditions (Makena Road off Wailea Alanui Drive, Kihei). If the beach isn't close enough to the whales for you, you can always head out to sea for a from-the-water view. Scores of whale-watching tours leave from Lahaina or Maalaea, both of which are northwest of Makena Beach. Two-hour whale-watch tours, accompanied by a certified marine naturalist, are available from either port with the nonprofit Pacific Whale Foundation (pacificwhale.org).Savoring SunsetsKaanapali Beach, MauiMaui's Kaanapali Beach, with its water-sport concessions and attentive "beach butlers," may remind you of Miami's South Beach by day. Come dusk, however, its tawny, three-mile-long shore is Hawaiian through and through. At each of Kaanapali's 11 resorts, someone blows on a conch shell to announce the impending sunset. That's your cue to hit the beach path to Pu'u Keka'a (meaning "hill creating strength through enlightenment"), located near the Sheraton Maui. Pu'u Keka'a is a massive black lava rock that juts into the sea, dividing Kaanapali Beach in half and forming the focal point for a nightly torch-lighting and cliff-diving ceremony based on ancient Hawaiian legend and history. At one time Hawaiians believed that Pu'u Keka'a was sacred—the place where the souls of dead warriors leapt into the ancestral world. Shortly before every sunset, in a tribute to this legend, a loincloth-clad "warrior" ignites a series of torches leading to the crest of Black Rock (where the Sheraton Maui Resort now sits). The warrior then raises an orchid lei toward the sky in all four directions. Just as the sun dives below the horizon, the barefoot warrior takes a 30-foot plunge into the inky ocean below. Your best vantage points: the beach across from Black Rock, or the Sheraton Maui's Lagoon Bar. Arrive an hour early to hear the bartender "talk story" about the time when Kaanapali Beach was a favored playground of Hawaiian royalty. Heady experiences like these, combined with the sensuous movements of a nearby hula dancer, will serve as a potent reminder that you're not in Kansas anymore (2605 Kaanapali Parkway, Lahaina; sheraton-maui.com).Swimming with Sea TurtlesPrince Kuhio Beach Park, KauaiIf you didn't know about Prince Kuhio Beach Park, or its neighbor, Lawai Beach, you might drive right by them. But don't let appearances fool you. Rocky, postage-stamp-sized Prince Kuhio Beach is the place for snorkeling encounters of the green-shelled kind—that is, with the group of green sea turtles that regularly graze and snooze amid the seaweed-draped rock ledges here.In Hawaiian mythology, these graceful, speckled creatures, called honu, acted as aumakua, or godlike guardians. Today, the law requires that you keep a respectful distance from this protected species; however, if you are swimming near them, one or two gentle giants may paddle a little closer to check you out. Because ocean currents here can be tricky, go with a knowledgeable guide, like those from Aloha Kauai Tours. The company's snorkeling trip also stops at adjacent Lawai Beach, an unassuming strip of sand where the waters teem with up to 140 sea-life species, including prison-striped Moorish Idols, unicorn fish and octopi (alohakauaitours.com). Finding Nemo should be a cinch!Private TimeRed Sand Beach, MauiEast Maui's secluded Kaihalulu ("Roaring Sea"), a.k.a. Red Sand Beach, may be one of the most beautiful and exotic swimming spots on the planet—a breathtaking Grand-Canyon-meets-the-sea landscape carved from evergreen-draped walls of red volcanic rock and carpeted in crimson-colored sand. But don't try to get there if you're afraid of heights: This beach can only be reached via a narrow, mountainside footpath high above the Pacific. The sometimes harrowing hike takes a little over 10 minutes from the trailhead, but might feel longer if conditions aren't good. (Wear sturdy shoes, and don't attempt the hike if the ground is wet or the forecast threatens rain.) Even beyond the landscape, you may get an eyeful here: Despite laws against nude sunbathing, this secluded cove sometimes attracts proponents of it. Most folks are too busy frolicking in the pools created by the volcanic rock formations to even notice. (Red Sand Beach is located at Uakea and Hauoli roads, in Hana. Follow the overgrown trailhead near the Hotel Hana-Maui's Sea Ranch Cottages.) Sun- and Sports-LoversMauna Kea Beach, The Big Island of Hawai'iIf your idea of bliss is lounging on a silky white beach, while his involves slicing away at a sand trap (or vice versa), both of you can satisfy your needs at Mauna Kea Beach, on the Big Island. This gorgeous strand, named after the resort located there, fronts...

Inn-Sider's Maui

Fri, 24 Mar 2006 12:00:00 AM

Honeymooners love Hawai’i, and Maui tops the list of the state’s treasured islands. With 120 miles of shoreline, it’s no surprise that Maui offers hundreds of beach hotels and resorts to choose from for your honeymoon. But, if you’re looking for a quieter experience, away from the crowds that pack the coast, consider booking a room at one of the island’s inns. A small hotel may be on a cliff overlooking a waterfall, or it may have a pick-your-own fruit garden and a bamboo-lined lanai with a whirlpool tub. These four inns offer a real sense of Maui’s unforgettable style, as well as plenty of privacy. Island OasisIf you’re looking for picturesque beaches lined with palm trees, then West Maui is for you. The area’s main town of Lahaina offers shopping and restaurants, as well as close proximity to Black Rock Beach, one of the island’s prettiest stretches of sand. There, in the middle of this sleepy port town, is the 19-room Plantation Inn.This two-story turn-of-the-century bed-and-breakfast is trimmed with whitewashed balconies, and its air-conditioned guest rooms stretch around a courtyard with a pool and a breakfast area. The superior guest rooms, with their Victorian styling and elegant brass beds, are lovely, but consider upgrading to one of the honeymoon suites, each of which has a lanai, a kitchenette, a living room and a bedroom with a four-poster canopy bed—and still costs less than a standard double room at many of the island’s posh resorts.In the morning, you can take your breakfast by the pool and enjoy a mug of local Kona coffee, presented with house-made yogurt and hand-tossed muesli, as well as French toast topped with pineapple—all served up with a view of the mountains.This quiet oasis is less than two blocks from the waterfront, where you can set off from the dock on whale-watching or dinner cruises, or snorkel around Black Rock Beach. Best of all, as a guest of the inn, you'll have full access to its sister property, the massive 430-room Kaanapali Beach Hotel, which is just three miles away and has its own gorgeous strand of sand, as well as a large pool and a whole lineup of Hawaiian culture classes, such as hula-dancing and lei-making lessons. But you'll want to head back to the inn by dinnertime so that you can get a table at Gerard's, the property's award-winning French-Hawaiian fusion restaurant. Sure, the seafood (which is caught daily by Lahaina fishermen) can be pricey, but you'll remember the ahi tartare and roasted Hawaiian snapper, not to mention the macadamia-nut-coconut cake, for years to come (174 Lahainaluna Road, Lahaina; theplantationinn.com).Head for the HillsIf you and your husband prefer hustle and bustle to quiet, head to central Maui, a residential area that's conveniently located near beaches and historic sights. With antiques shops, pineapple and papaya plantations and museums, including a Frank Lloyd Wright-style home, you'll have plenty to do. When you want to get out into nature, you can visit Iao Valley State Park, which is made up of six acres of lush, green fields and trails, as well as streams and swimming holes, all located in the remains of a volcanic crater. At the end of a busy day of sightseeing, check into the 10-room Old Wailuku Inn at Ulupono, which is made up of several buildings located on a garden estate in the historic town of Wailuku. The inn is filled with antique Asian furniture, including headboards salvaged from Buddhist temples. Consider booking one of the Veranda rooms. Some of these feature king-size beds and whirlpool tubs. They're all located in the Main House, which also has a front yard and a vine-covered lanai—the perfect place to enjoy the refreshing evening breezes. If you want more privacy, be sure to stay in the newer Vagabond's House, which has stunning floors of dark marble and bamboo, and locally designed linens. Some rooms even have multijet showers—the ideal way to wake up in the morning.Before you head out for a day of exploration, set aside some time for the inn's sumptuous breakfast. You'll sit down to a meal of Belgian waffles with mango and caramel sauce, or rich banana pancakes. Either way, it's a truly unforgettable taste of the island (2199 Kahookele Street, Wailuku; mauiinn.com).Cliff DwellersOne of the best things about the four-room Huelo Point Flower Farm inn is its location, off the famously twisting Hana Highway, on the north shore of Maui. And—best of all—it sits atop a 300-foot cliff overlooking the ocean. The inn is convenient to most of the island's major sites, as well as to the stunning northern beaches.Huelo has four secluded guest houses. Of these, you'll want to book the Gazebo Cottage, which not only offers the most privacy on the estate but also has the best bay view. This one-room studio features a kitchenette, a flat-screen television, and a private bath with an outdoor shower and floor-to-ceiling glass walls that offers views of Waipio Bay. Step out onto your own patio to stargaze, whale-watch from your hot tub or take a dip in the inn's pool. Because Huelo is in the middle of the rain forest, a good drive away from the island's many restaurants, you will want to buy and cook your own food. Fortunately, grocers in nearby towns make this easy, and the inn's rooms come stocked with a grill and barbecue supplies. You can pick your own fruit from the property's garden—from papaya, starfruit and breadfruit to mangos, depending on the season. No matter what you make for dinner, you can finish it off with a spectacular fruit salad—or feed each other fruit that's warm from the sun (Paia; auiflowerfarm.com).Country TimeYou may not think "country" when you think of Maui—but the middle region of the island, known as Upcountry, is truly rural. In fact, many second- and third-generation locals reminisce about the "real Maui," and will tell you that Upcountry is what most of the island was like before it was developed.You can immerse yourselves in this old-world Hawai'i at the Olinda Country Cottages and Inn, located on the western side of Haleakala, the world's largest dormant volcano, high up in the mountains, where the air is cool. Located at the end of a road just north of a eucalyptus forest, the inn's eight-and-a-half acres of sloping meadows look out over the West Maui Mountains all the way to the shore.While the Tudor-style inn's five standard cottages provide ample space, they are better suited to families than couples, so you'll want to stay in the property's Hidden Cottage, located away from the main inn. The cottage is so private, it feels as if it was built just for honeymooners. At the 950-square-foot villa, you can cuddle up by the fireplace or soak in the outdoor whirlpool tub. There are three decks to choose from, each with views of tropical flowers and trees. Because the inn is in Upcountry, guests can beat the crowds to the top of the volcano in Haleakala National Park, a mere two-hour drive away. Also nearby are the Tedeschi Vineyards and the Alii Kula Lavender Farm, in the town of Kula. Sure, you'll love exploring the volcano and breathing in the fresh scent of the lavender fields—but you'll also be glad when you're heading back to your hideaway, knowing you won't see anyone else but each other until morning (2660 Olinda Road, Makawao; mauibnbcottages.com).

Smart Sight-Seeing

Fri, 24 Mar 2006 12:00:00 AM

Where to go and what to do when you’re on Maui.We've convinced some of Maui's top resort concierges to spill their secrets on how honeymooners can make the most of their time in this tropical paradise. Just follow these insiders' tips on how to maximize your island vacation—and still have plenty of time left for the beach. Ride into a volcanoMany guidebooks suggest catching a sunrise at Haleakala on a morning hike, but few mention that it is unpredictably foggy. A better option: A guided horseback tour of the crater. "Hiking in and out is a real grind," explains Wailea Marriott concierge Tracy Sevenich, who prefers letting a horse carry her around this famous sight. Book a half-day ride with Haleakala on Horseback, and save your energy for, um, other honeymoon-worthy activities (haleakalaonhorseback.com). See Hana from aboveDriving the famous Hana Highway, with its more than 600 hairpin turns and 54 one-lane bridges, is a day-long feat. To see the dramatic scenery without the stress of driving, Four Seasons Resort Maui's Talea Agdeppa suggests taking a tour with Hana Sky Trek in one of the company's cushy, leather-seat-equipped "limo vans." Your driver will pay attention to the road while you sit back and enjoy the view. Best of all, these guides know the most photogenic stops, including the best waterfalls to swim in en route. At the end of the road, you'll hop in a helicopter for an aerial tour of Hana's rain forest (temptationtours.com). Follow the locals Maui may have plenty of fabulous restaurants with candlelit tables and $40 entrees, but you don't have to blow your bank account every night. Instead, suggests Westin Maui Resort and Spa concierge Linda Henke, dine where the Hawaiians do—at the Aloha Mixed Plate restaurant. This little eatery features a typical Hawaiian "plate lunch," which includes kalua pork, lomilomi salmon and rice. Best of all, the restaurant serves up million-dollar waterfront views from its deck (alohamixedplate.com). Get out thereLove the sophisticated Maui scene, but want to get away from it all for a day? No problem. Sheraton Maui concierge Mike Wine suggests leaving the pool butlers, crowds and traffic behind, and splurging on a day trip to nearby Molokai, a largely undeveloped island that doesn't even have traffic lights. You'll take a private plane that will fly over Molokai's 1,800-foot-high Kahiwa Waterfall and deposit you at a private property for an alfresco champagne breakfast or lunch. You'll tour Molokai by car, then be whisked to a remote beach, where a pilot in a helicopter overhead will shower you with fresh plumeria blossoms. It's sure to be a highlight of your Hawaiian honeymoon (hawaiifantasyisland.com).

Learn to Hula!

Wed, 01 Feb 2006 12:00:00 AM

It’s the first night of my trip to the lushly beautiful Big Island and I’m dining with a friend at Brown’s Beach House, one of the island’s best restaurants. While admiring the torchlit view of the Pacific Ocean from our outdoor table, I dig into my dessert. I’ve ordered the popular Lava Flow Bread Pudding, which is butterscotch ice cream on top of warm chocolate-banana bread. As I savor each bite, my attention drifts to the hula dancer performing on the palm-tree-strewn lawn at the front of the restaurant. “It seems like hula is just entertainment for tourists,” I tell my dining companion who, since relocating from my hometown of L.A. to the Big Island several years ago, has become my own personal expert on all things Hawaiian, from nature to history.“I once thought so, too,” my friend confesses. But, she explains, she has since discovered that Hawaiians consider the hula an important part of their cultural identity.“Hula is the language of the heart and therefore the heartbeat of the Hawaiian people,” she says—then explains that she’s quoting King David Kalakaua, the 19th-century Hawaiian monarch. Most local girls attend hula school, called a hula halau, several times a week for years. Hawaiian brides even learn a special hula to perform for their husbands as a wedding gift, she adds.If hula is, in fact, the window to the soul of these mystical islands, then I want to take more than a peek. I make a mental note to squeeze some more hula into my otherwise sun- and fun-filled time. Show and TellIronically, I find out the next evening as I walk into the luau at my resort, the Mauna Kea Beach Hotel, that local hula champion Nani Lim Yap has choreographed the post-dinner hula performance. After the other diners and I have stuffed ourselves with traditional Hawaiian fare, including roasted kalua pork and lomi lomi salmon, Yap introduces herself to us. There are two types of hula, she explains: hula kahiko, a sacred ancient dance, and hula 'auana, a modern hula developed after the original was banned by missionaries in 1820. Modern hula is characterized by the use of ukulele and guitar, western melodies and long, modest dresses, Yap tells us as several members of her troupe commence the sensual, seamless movements. Watching the dancers sway, I find the rhythmic drumbeat irresistible, and decide to sign up for a class in the morning. Hula BabyLike many resorts, the Mauna Kea offers complimentary hula lessons every week; theirs are nice because they take place outdoors, with a view of the palm fronds waving in front of the ocean. I wander down to the terrace, and take my place among the group of hotel guests, mostly women, who have signed up for the class. Michaela Larson, a long-haired beauty dressed in a traditional long dress, begins our lesson by blowing a conch shell, a method used to summon people in ancient times. The foghorn-like sound recedes, leaving our group quiet.She follows this with a chant in Hawaiian, asking higher powers for insight. Done properly, hula is danced with a centeredness that Michaela describes as mana, a sense of spiritual empowerment. Though I've arrived scattered, I listen to the chant and start to feel calm.This must be why hula dancers are so graceful. Michaela then explains that hula features seven basic kinds of foot or hip movements as well as a separate hand vocabulary that conveys the words being chanted or sung. She demonstrates bits and pieces of each. Soon we're ready to learn the Hukilau, a simple modern hula danced to an English ditty about fishing for a community feast. The hula's moral, Michaela tells us, is about the joy of helping one another. I feel a little self-conscious, but I can mimic the hand and foot positions and, by the end of the class, I find myself singing along. Tropical DelightsI arrange a private lesson for the following afternoon. With the morning free, I decide to schedule a spa break at the Fairmont Orchid hotel, located about 15 minutes south of my resort. Hopping in my rental car, I start off down Queen Kaahumanu Highway, which bisects a vast, lava-baked landscape. Three of the five volcanoes that built this island flank the horizon on one side, and the Pacific borders the other. Along the way I pass ancient fishponds and groomed golf courses, and marvel at the lush beauty of the island. When I arrive at the spa, I walk through the manicured grounds to get to an outdoor massage room for my "Heavenly Waterfalls" treatment. My therapist performs a Hawaiian chant for health, then administers a languid massage, known as lomi lomi, and a facial, all to the melodious sound of a nearby waterfall. When he's done, I head back to the Mauna Kea to meet Michaela for my private lesson, feeling as refreshed as if I'd taken a nap. I had hoped to surprise my husband with one of those wedding hulas that my friend had mentioned, but Michaela tells me that these complex dances often take months to learn. Instead, she suggests a modern hula with lyrics about turning in different directions. Its kauna, or hidden meaning (which all hulas have), is far sexier, Michaela assures me—though she winks when I ask what it is, leaving me to my own imagination.She demonstrates the song's flowing hand gestures while executing a hip movement called an ami, a sexy, figure-eight rotation that has me flummoxed. Having my hands do one thing while my hips and legs are doing another is a little like patting my head and rubbing my tummy at the same time. Michaela and I are overcome by laughter.Natural Woman The next day, feeling the urge to go beyond the manicured gardens, I sign up for a hike led by Hawai'i Forest and Trails, a tour excursion company that specializes in active group tours. The guide picks me up at my hotel bright and early. As we drive to the mountainous northwest coast, called the Kohala Coast, we pass increasingly dense foliage. During the easy three-mile walk along a stunning cliffside trail through the rugged Kohala countryside, we visit numerous waterfalls, including the beautiful Kapoloa Waterfall, which plunges 500 feet down to the emerald-green Pololu Valley floor below. Wild ginger and towering wild banana plants surround the falls. As we walk along the well-trod mountain path, one of my fellow hikers mentions that the Kona Village Resort offers private ancient hula lessons. Eager to try the kahiko hula, I call the Kona Village as soon as I return to my hotel. Luckily, there's a lesson tomorrow afternoon; I check out of the Mauna Kea and drive south to the Kona Village. The Big Island is more rugged than Maui or Oahu and, perhaps because of the challenges of building on lava, it's less developed. I realize that much of it must look exactly as it did in the early 19th century, the time of Kamehameha the Great, the warrior chief who was born on the Big Island and united the neighboring islands into one kingdom.The Kona Village is a throwback to the past, too. Instead of a posh tower, like Mauna Kea, the resort is made up of thatch-roofed bungalows built in various Polynesian styles. Though luxurious, my bungalow has no phone, TV, radio or clock. Pleased with the solitude, I spend the evening in a hammock, listening to waves thundering on the beach nearby.The next day, after lunch and a bit of snorkeling, I head over to my lesson. Leinala "Lei" Lightner, the resort's activities director, introduces me to two instructors, Tangee Acoba and Ash Uina, who will teach me a hula that's danced to a love chant. The chant tells a story, praising Queen Kaahumanu.Lei marks the ancient hula's tempo by striking a hollowed-out gourd, and we begin. Slowly, as Lei chants and Tangee translates, I learn the ancient dance. The abrupt arm movements are less sensual than those of modern hula, but the experience is much more powerful because I am filled with pride in retelling such an old story. The more I dance, the more...

Hawaiian Cuisine

Tue, 26 Jul 2005 12:00:00 AM

The joke used to be that the only good meal you’d have during your Hawaiian vacation would be the one on the airplane going over. It’s been a long time since that was true, thanks to Hawai’i Regional Cuisine, an organization of 12 chefs who joined forces in 1991 to encourage local farmers to grow fresh greens, vegetables and fruit in return for a guarantee that restaurants would buy their crops. More recently, the concept has gone beyond produce. Today, you can also taste artisanal Hawaiian cheeses and fresh local fish—all nurtured by the same lovely tropical climate that makes the islands such a wonderful honeymoon destination. After a relaxing day on the beach, here’s where to go for a real taste of the Big Island, Oahu and Maui.The Big IslandMerriman’s There’s no question about who the big man on the Big Island is: It’s Peter Merriman. He’s the chef who spearheaded the creation of the Hawai’i Regional Cuisine group, and from the day it opened, his restaurant in Waimea has served the best local produce, making vine-ripened Lokelani tomatoes famous. Order a salad of organic local greens and Mauna Kea goat cheese topped with vinaigrette, or Kalua pork quesadillas with mango-chile sauce. If possible, sign up for one of Merriman’s Tuesday night “Farm Visit” dinners. You’ll get to tour a local farm, such as Kahua Ranch, which provides beef for the restaurant, or Hamakua Mushrooms, where the oyster and shiitake mushrooms that show up on the menu are grown. Then, you can head back to the restaurant for a four-course dinner highlighting the special ingredients that you just learned about in the field (merrimanshawaii.com). OahuRoy's Honolulu is a food-lover's heaven. Almost all of Hawai'i's star chefs have restaurants in the state's capital. The most famous name here? Roy Yamaguchi, who was the first to introduce "Euro-Asian" style cooking. The original Roy's is in Honolulu's Hawai'i Kai neighborhood, on the east side of Diamond Head; you'll find satellites on the other islands and around the world. The menu is full of light dishes, from a salad of teriyaki-glazed duck served with local greens in ginger-cilantro vinaigrette to mahimahi crusted with macadamia nuts, as well as heavier fare, such as Szechuan-style baby-back ribs. Don't miss the lengthy and impressive sake list (roysrestaurant.com).Alan Wong's Restaurant Alan Wong is continually voted Hawai'i's best chef. While his small Honolulu restaurant, which is located north of Waikiki, is formal and elegant, the menu and presentation have a playful side. (Your appetizer, for example, might come in a martini glass.) Wong worked at the world-famous Lutèce, in New York City, for three years, developing the kind of skills that give his dishes a deceptive air of effortlessness. His can't-take-it-off-the-menu dish: ginger-crusted onaga (long-tailed red snapper). The restaurant is sleek and modern, with neutral tones, and has an open kitchen, which means you can see your coconut-crusted lamb chops and delicate coconut tapioca with passion fruit sorbet being prepared before they're delivered to your table (alanwongs.com).Chef Mavro George Mavrothalassitis was born in France's port town of Marseilles, but he has become a local legend in Hawai'i as "Chef Mavro," promoting the use of local fish. Now he's the owner of his own restaurant, which is a tiny spot just north of Waikiki. This is a truly magical place to dine: Walk in, and you're greeted immediately with a décor that includes drums made out of coconut shells, and tropical flower arrangements filled with orchids and ginger blossoms. The dining room itself is soothingly neutral, and decorated with paintings of Hawaiian leis and watercolors of tropical flowers by local artists. Mavrothalassitis changes his menu every couple of months, but the one thing his fans will never let him retire is his onaga baked in a salt crust. Chef Mavro offers prix fixe menus, with dishes such as cumin-seared ahi tuna) and goat cheese wontons with Maui onions, and the restaurant's knowledgeable staff chooses the wines that are paired with each course of your meal (chefmavro.com).Sam Choy's Diamond Head Poke, a cold salad of raw fish tossed with seaweed, is a classic dish in Hawai'i. Made with local seafood, such as tuna or yellowtail, it tastes as fresh and clean as the island's sea air. Sam Choy is the king of poke, and he's also the king of big portions. Choy uses local ingredients and they're expertly cooked, so there's no question you're in for a night of fine dining. Dishes include crispy seared moi (threadfin shad), served with a light ginger sauce, and mahimahi steamed in ti leaves. His Diamond Head restaurant, which is located in Kapahulu, overlooking a golf course, has a "plantation-style kitchen," which has bamboo flooring and large wooden chopping blocks. The walls are covered with lauhala mats, woven from grasses, and the tables are paired with comfortable bamboo chairs.Try Choy's Hawaiian-style bouillabaisse, if it's on the menu, and don't leave without a taste of the pineapple cheesecake—with a macadamia-nut crust—or the rich banana bread pudding. The restaurant also serves a Sunday brunch buffet, with classic dishes such as poi (mashed taro root), kalua pork and a poke-tasting station, complete with tako (octopus) poke and a mussel poke that's mixed with kimchee, a spicy Korean-style pickled cabbage (samchoy.com).Sansei Waikiki D.K. Kodama recently moved his hot, award-winning Sansei seafood restaurant to the Waikiki Marriott and added D.K. Steak House, which has a separate kitchen and its own dry-aging room. Both restaurants have wine lists composed by Hawai'i's only Master Sommelier, Chuck Furuya. But, if you only have time to try one, book a table at Sansei. Kodama is a serious chef, but his Asian Pacific menu displays his sense of humor. (How about some seared foie gras sushi, or a "Bagel Maki Roll," filled with smoked salmon, cream cheese and Maui onion?) Take one bite of his mahimahi with plum sauce, and you'll see why he is one of Hawai'i's rising stars(Waikiki Beach Marriott Resort and Spa, 2552 Kalakaua Avenue, Waikiki; sanseihawaii.com).MauiHali'imaile General Store Maui's leading restaurateur is Beverly Gannon, whose 18-year-old Hali'imaile General Store restaurant has not lost any of its original luster. The interior of the old plantation building has been remodeled, but it remains as rustic and unassuming as ever. And the food could not be more delicious. The business started as a gourmet takeout shop, but it has evolved into one of the best restaurants on the island. Only the freshest ingredients go into the dishes, which include rock shrimp tempura served with truffle honey and soy aioli, crispy calamari with mango chutney, paniolo (Hawaiian cowboy-style) barbecued ribs, and seafood curry steamed in coconut milk. Desserts include buttery shortcake topped with delicious Ulupalakua strawberries, which were grown up on the rim of the island's volcano. They are truly unforgettable (bevgannonrestaurants.com).I'O and Pacific'O James McDonald's two restaurants—located right across the street from each other, in the port town of Lahaina—are the only dining spots in Hawai'i with their own farms. On nearby properties, McDonald grows all the greens and herbs used at his establishments, and about a quarter of the total produce. Both restaurants serve "contemporary Pacific" cuisine: I'O's menu features tropical seafood served in a martini glass, topped with mango and papaya; Pacific'O's offers shrimp wontons with Hawaiian salsa and a sesame-crusted rack of lamb. Both have oceanfront lanais and, if you can get a table there, there's no better place to be at sunset (iomaui.com and pacificomaui.com).Vino Italian Tapas and Wine Bar Another of D.K. Kodama's creations, this restaurant serves up classic Hawaiian "pupus," which are similar to Spanish-style tapas, and are an old custom in Hawai'i. Order shrimp and scallop Alfredo, or fresh ahi and grilled lump crab topped...

My, Oh Maui!

Mon, 30 May 2005 12:00:00 AM

My husband and I fondly remember our magical honeymoon on Maui , 20 years ago, when the island was so underdeveloped that the airport baggage-claim area was a grass hut. Even though Maui currently attracts visitors with luxury hotels and world-class restaurants, the big draws are still those gorgeous beaches and sunsets. Here, the top 10 reasons to book a honeymoon on Maui now.1. Rise and shine. Taking a boat trip to Molokini atoll for some snorkeling is a must for romantic adventurers, but make sure you go in the morning. In the afternoon, the trade winds come up and make for poor visibility, a choppy ride and limited photo opportunities. Sign up for a trip with Blue Water Rafting, and you’ll take a half-hour ride along the breathtaking Kanaio Coast, passing the famous lava arches and exploring inside several caves. Finally, you’ll motor over to Molokini, beating most of the big boats to the good snorkeling spots (bluewaterrafting.com).2. Explore the shore. While many of Maui ’s best beaches appear to be for the exclusive use of resort guests or homeowners, state law requires public access. Look for tiny signs that point the way to the very narrow, often hidden paths. Our favorite stretch is Makena Beach , just south of Wailea Beach , located on Makena Road between the quaint Keawalai Church , built in the 1800s, and the 310-room Maui Prince Hotel. This is one stunning stretch of sand, and it has showers and restrooms (mauiprince.com).3.Stroll “Sunset Boulevard.” The pedestrian path that runs along Wailea Beach near the 780-room Grand Wailea Resort Hotel and Spa is a perfect place to watch the sun slip into the Pacific. Walk through the hotel’s sculpture collection and past the white cabanas of the adults-only pool until you hit the beach. Turn left and saunter down the path, past multimillion-dollar condos and multimillion-dollar views (3850 Wailea Alanui, Wailea; grandwailea.com).4.Book a table for two. Has the sea air put you in the mood for local seafood? Nick’s Fish Market Maui is the place to go. While you’re waiting for your table, order a glass of champagne or crisp, summery white wine from the spectacular glass-enclosed, 2,000-bottle cellar, and ogle the yellow tang fish in the 800-gallon tank. It’s worth the extra wait to sit outdoors under the flowering stephanotis vines. (Who else but a couple of honeymooners would know that this is the flower grooms traditionally wear as their boutonnieres?) Order Chef Kyle Yonashiro’s sautéed abalone, served on a gleaming mother-of-pearl shell it’s a winner (4100 Wailea Alanui, Wailea; 808-879-7224).5.Head for the treetops. Skyline Eco-adventures offers a zip-line ride that will have your adrenaline pumping. You'll be strapped into a harness, and sent soaring along on a wire, suspended in open air, passing over gulches, canyons and treetops along the slope of one of the world's largest volcanoes. Be sure to wear sneakers for the invigorating hike through the rain forest that follows (skylinehawaii.com).6. Go west. Make for the sleepy western town of Makawao , where you'll find a wide variety of craft boutiques and antiques stores. Don't miss The Avalene Gallery, which features the work of local artists: If you don't have room in your new home for one of Tom Faught's huge ceramic vases (with enormous price tags), you can find hand-turned wood bowls that are less expensive. Back at home, you'll think of Maui whenever you toss a salad (1156 Makawao Avenue, Makawao; 808-572-8500).7. Take a spin. The best way to see the Haleakala volcano: a pre-dawn bike ride down its face. Maui Mountain Cruisers offers early morning rides, complete with parkas, helmets and gloves (hey, it's cold up there). Dozens of bikers make this run, so each company is assigned a start time, and Maui Mountain is always the first company to leave the top. You'll watch the sun come up over the crater, and then you'll coast 38 miles downhill, past black-and-white cows and colorful tropical flowers (15 South Wakea Avenue, Kahului; mauimountaincruisers.com). Prefer a slower pace? Try Maui Troopahz's Eco Adventure Hike, a half-day tour that includes a continental breakfast and a deli-style lunch—and still allows you time to hit the beach (22 Alahele Place, Kihei; mauitroopahz.com).8.Fly high. Sure, the Hana Highway is beautiful, but it's also a slow, winding, 53-mile road, with 54 one-lane bridges. Some of the local guides call the fourth turn of this twisting road the "Key Toss" turn because they see so many couples stopping the car, arguing and throwing their keys in anger. Instead of taking turns at the wheel, enjoy the view together by splurging on a full-day private "Hana Safari" with Star Maui Limousine Service (limohawaii.com). Better yet, instead of driving, consider taking a 45-minute Alex Air helicopter tour of eastern Maui . The views of the thundering waterfalls are spectacular ( helitour.com).9. Stay in. A great way to end a busy day: Order room service and watch the sunset from your balcony. At the 510-room Sheraton Maui Resort, the "Pearl of the Pacific" seafood appetizer. Make it even more of an event with the four-course Ali'i Royalty Dinner, which costs $90 per couple and includes a salad of local kula greens topped with papaya seed dressing, as well as fresh fish, and cheesecake made with Hawai'i's native passion fruit (called lilikoi). It's a sweet and tropical taste of the island you won't forget (2605 Kaanapali Parkway, Lahaina;sheraton-maui.com). 10. Just relax. You can get spa treatments all over the island, but the three-and-a-half-hour "Romantic Interlude for Two," given at the Spa Grande at the Grand Wailea, may very well be the most sensual. You'll have separate baths and loofah scrubs. Then, the two of you will reunite in a private room overlooking the Pacific, where masseuses will swathe you in heavenly sandalwood body wraps and draw you a romantic bath with floating flowers. The interlude ends with a side-by-side massage…and a nap on a private lanai overlooking the ocean (3850 Wailea Alanui, Wailea; grandwailea.com). Another spa to consider: the one at the 806-room Hyatt Regency Maui Spa and Resort. Relax and unwind with a "sun relief" facial, featuring a soothing aloe vera green tea mask. It's the perfect end to a beach honeymoon (200 Nohea Kai Drive, Lahaina; maui.hyatt.com).

A View of the Heavens

Tue, 12 Apr 2005 12:00:00 AM

I’m sitting on the bed, packing for our trip to Hawai’i, when my husband, Paul, comes into our bedroom. He watches me fold my long underwear and place it into the suitcase—and looks poised to check my forehead for a fever.But what I’m doing isn’t as crazy as it seems. We’re headed to the Big Island to go stargazing, and, while his and hers thongs may be standard for sunbathing, warm clothes come in handy when traveling to the cold summit of a slumbering volcano for a view of the heavens. Multicolored beaches, lush waterfalls and Kilauea, the most active volcano on the planet, already make the Big Island a dreamy destination for sun-loving honeymooners. But what most visitors don’t know is that scientists consider it to be the best place in the world for stargazing. There, the summit of 13,796-foot-tall Mauna Kea, a dormant volcano, offers a magnificently clear window to the universe. You can see a whopping 90 percent of the stars visible from Earth, thanks to the island’s location—2,500 miles from the nearest continent—and a pollution-free, exceptionally dark sky. Soon, my husband and I will hop a plane bound for Hawai’i, ready to play peek-a-boo with the solar system—and we couldn’t be more excited about our trip. Sky WalkersWhen we arrive on the island and check into the Hapuna Beach Prince Hotel, we find that the resort offers a sky-watching excursion at its sister property, the swank Mauna Kea Beach Hotel, so we sign up for a group tour scheduled for that night. During the day, Paul and I hike in nearby Waipio Valley, a pristine sliver of rain forest whose lush taro patches and cascading waterfalls are surrounded by 2,000-foot-high cliffs.Shortly after dusk, we join 10 other guests at the Mauna Kea Beach Hotel’s seaside tennis courts, where our incredibly knowledgeable guide, Wayne M. Fukunaga, greets us. He’s brought with him a hefty 11-inch-diameter telescope that resembles a missile launcher from an Arnold Schwarzenegger movie. For the next few minutes, my fellow voyeurs and I gaze in wonder at 13-billion-year-old star clusters, which were born when the Milky Way Galaxy was first formed. Then, Wayne swings the telescope around to show us M57, the remnants of a star that imploded 20,000 years ago. It looks a bit like a cosmic bellybutton—or a lone tortellini in the sky. A video system attached to his telescope magnifies these celestial objects to the size of silver dollars. At the end of an hour, I have traveled by sight to places where no man has physically gone before—and it has got to be the easiest journey I’ve ever taken.Drawn to the LightIn the morning, I realize that our brief look at the stars the night before has left me wanting more. There’s only one place to go: up, to the top of Mauna Kea, the center of the island’s astronomical activity. Since 1968, when the first of 13 telescopes was erected atop Mauna Kea, astronomers have traveled here to study Pluto’s surface ice, watch a volcano erupt on one of Jupiter’s moons and witness the birth of new solar systems. The instruments assembled on this Hawaiian mountaintop represent the largest collection of international observatories in the world.Fortunately, what’s available to the world’s leading astronomers is also accessible to mere mortals like us. Rental-car agencies do not allow their vehicles on the rough road to the summit, so we book an eight-hour stargazing trip with Hawai’i Forest and Trail, one of several licensed tour operators.The tour doesn’t start until the afternoon, so we spend the morning visiting a Kona coffee farm (one of the island’s most famous exports) and the art galleries of funky Holualoa, a slip of a town located in the mountains, just south of our hotel. Then, it’s back to the hotel’s beach for snorkeling hand in hand among rainbow-colored fish. As morning turns into afternoon, I return to our room to change out of my bikini and sandals and into the layered clothing and sneakers that the tour operator suggested. Suddenly, I wonder why my husband and I are giving up spending the rest of the day in paradise to shiver on the top of a mountain. But I’m hooked on the feeling of seeing the world from a new perspective, and so I stash my long underwear, gloves and turtleneck in a shoulder bag—and out the door we go.Up the HillThe four-wheel-drive van picks us up in front of the hotel, then cuts inland across the island through lava fields as brittle as the residue at the bottom of our barbecue back at home. Gradually, we ascend to the parched, grassy plains that bisect the privately owned 210,000-acre Parker Ranch, which sprawls across the side of the mountain. Our guide, Lisa Nelson, a Colorado-born redhead who holds a degree in natural sciences from the University of Hawai’i, regales us with scientific and historical information about the island, as well as folklore, as the van ambles toward the crest.Tonight’s journey, she explains, will take us through five climate zones, including hot desert and polar tundra. Our destination is the summit of the 4,000-year-old Mauna Kea, which, according to ancient Hawaiian legend, is inhabited by Poliahu, the Hawaiian goddess of snow and ice, sister to the better-known deity Pele, who is said to live within the Big Island’s active volcano, Mount Kilauea.The road is riddled with potholes, and I’m grateful when, after about an hour and a half, we stop at the base of Mauna Kea for a picnic dinner of macadamia nut-crusted fish and chicken breasts stuffed with artichokes and spinach. I’m happy to dig into the meal, but I know the real reason for our hour-long stop is so that we can acclimate to the increasing elevation and avoid getting nauseated or headachy. I slip on my long underwear and turtleneck during a lull in the meal, so I’m ready when Lisa distributes hooded Arctic-weather parkas. As she hands me mine, she warns us all that the average nighttime temperature atop Mauna Kea often dips below freezing.Last year, the summit had six-foot-high snowdrifts from December through May—but we’ve lucked out with unusually warm weather, and there’s no snow on the ground today. Piling back into the van, we continue our switchback climb up the slopes of Mauna Kea through an increasingly lunar-like landscape marked by otherwordly silversword plants, whose spiky blooms appear only once every 43 years. Shortly after we pass the cratered volcanic dust bowl where astronauts Buzz Aldrin, Neil Armstrong and Mike Collins test-drove their lunar rovers, the weather turns damp and misty. When we emerge from the fog, I realize that we have literally traveled above the clouds.Somewhere around 10,000 feet above sea level, Lisa recites a list of oxygen deprivation-related effects we may experience during our nearly 14,000-foot ascent. Move slowly, she warns. Suddenly, lying on the beach starts sounding better than ever. I feel okay, but my speech sounds inordinately thick and slow, as though I’ve had a few drinks too many. We pile out of the van, and we are reminded that visitors are not allowed inside any of the observatories. No matter: I am content to wander this otherwise barren wasteland and snap pictures of my surreal surroundings. Mauna Kea’s striking “Gemini Northern Telescope,” a seven-nation joint venture, sits inside a structure that resembles a giant space helmet. Huddled on a slightly lower plateau, near the horizon, a surprisingly small pair of white observatories house two of the world’s most powerful telescopes. I walk up to one of these dome-like buildings and touch its square metal base. Suddenly, the other observatory rotates on its axis and, as I watch the massive structure move, I feel like I’m caught in a strange science fiction movie. Waiting for the sunset to...

Beautiful Big Island" Hotels"

Fri, 25 Feb 2005 12:00:00 AM

Picture yourself lazing away the days in a hammock strung between two palm trees, with nothing between you and a perfect Kona sunset but the ocean. Or, perhaps you'd love an early-morning walk along the rugged Hamakua Cliffs, with hunchback whales, splashing around in the surf below, as your sunrise companions. However you spend your days, eventually you'll return to your "unplugged" hotel room, with an outdoor shower made of lava rock that's big enough for two and surrounded by fern-laced stones. Sound like your kind of honeymoon? You can find low-key, natural pleasures like these on Hawai'i's Big Island, one of the most underdeveloped parts of the chain. Unlike Oahu, which is best known for the hustle and bustle of Waikiki, and busy Maui, full of crowded resorts, the Big Island is home to awe-inspiring scenery—and the place for a host of unparalleled outdoor adventures. The island is ideal for newlyweds looking for a honeymoon that's off the beaten path, and many say that a visit here feels like a trip back in time. Several hotels evoke this idyllic past: Read on to decide which heavenly hideaway strikes your fancy. Past PerfectOne of the first resorts to make its home on the now-world- famous Kona Coast, Kona Village was built nearly 40 years ago, with exclusivity and privacy in mind. There are still no telephones, televisions, radios or alarm clocks in the 125 hale (Hawaiian-style thatch-roofed bungalows) that dot this 82-acre beachfront sanctuary, and a hand-painted coconut placed outside your door continues to serve as Kona Village's classic "do not disturb" sign. Complimentary activities include snorkeling, kayaking, sailing, canoeing and glass-bottom boat rides on turquoise-colored Kahuwai Bay. The hotel has lush lagoons and a Hawaiian-inspired spa and fitness center, and offers a lunch buffet that locals consider the best in the islands (think grilled lobster, fresh coconut and just-caught ahi). It all adds up to a timeless South Seas ambience found nowhere else in Hawai'i. So leave your cell phone behind—it's not allowed, and you probably wouldn't get service here, anyway—and surrender to a seaside couple's massage at sunset. Listen to the rhythm of the waves, and let the setting sun lull you into a state of relaxation. Then, return home to your hale, with just a tiki torch and the moon to light your way (konavillage.com). The Royal TreatmentThe 243-room Four Seasons Hualalai is located just a few minutes' drive down the "Gold Coast" from the Kona Village, and yet it feels like it's a world away. This resort is just what you would expect from a property in the tony Four Seasons chain, and it's a good choice for couples who want a vacation with a level of opulence befitting Hawai'i's ancient royalty. The resort has no fewer than five pools, including both freshwater and saltwater ones. Palm groves make the property feel secluded. Each of the elegant rooms has an ocean view, as well as creature comforts such as a whirlpool bath, goose-down duvets and a private lanai; many ground-floor units have outdoor showers made of lava rock. You can dine on Pacific Rim cuisine in Chef Alan Wong's Hualalai Grille, overlooking the Jack Nicklaus-designed golf course and Mount Hualalai. Snorkel in King's Pond, which the resort stocks with manta rays and hundreds of brightly colored tropical fish, or visit the Kaupulehu Cultural Centre, an educational facility that provides a window onto the island's past (fourseasons.com/hualalai). Range RoversLocals call the cowboy town of Waimea "Upcountry," and this part of the island is home to the Parker Ranch, one of the country's largest privately owned cattle ranches. Among the area's rolling emerald hills, you'll find the lovely Jacaranda Inn. Built in 1897 as a residence for the manager of Parker Ranch, this eight-room inn is the perfect starting point for those who wish to explore the majestic north shore. The inn's comfortable sitting rooms are filled with Hawaiian-Victorian antiques, and many of the guest rooms come with whirlpool tubs big enough for two. Every morning, innkeeper Mary Ellen Revana serves up omelets with ranch-style potatoes and island fruit. It's the perfect fuel for a day of hiking, horseback riding, or just relaxing with a book in one of the inn's many serene spots (jacarandainn.com). Gimme Some SugarAlong the Big Island's old sugar corridor, farther down the Hamakua Coast, remnants of Hawai'i's plantation past are preserved in rustic villages such as Honomu. This hamlet is home to one of the Big Island's most unusual accommodations: the gorgeous eight-room Palms Cliff House. The inn lies within minutes of Akaka and Rainbow falls and the old-fashioned town of Hilo, with its bustling farmer's market and lively arts scene—both must-sees for visitors seeking an authentic Big Island experience. Built in the style of the grand sugar estates of the 19th century, the Palms Cliff House is outfitted with modern luxuries such as air-conditioning, satellite TV, DVD players and high-thread-count Italian sheets. Since the inn is located atop a sheer cliff with unobstructed views of the Pacific, it's an ideal whale-watching spot during the winter months, and your balcony makes a perfect setting for enjoying a cup of Kona coffee at sunrise. In fact, you might never venture out of the room if it weren't for the inn's gourmet breakfasts (think Molokai sweet potato and basil frittatas) and afternoon tea, which features a mouthwatering tower of scones, tropical jams and clotted cream. Like the inn itself, it strikes just the right blend of luxury and authenticity (28-3514 Mamalahoa Highway, Honomu; palmscliffhouse.com). Too Hot to HandleHawai'i Volcanoes National Park, the legendary home of Pele, Hawai'i's goddess of fire, offers hundreds of square miles of trails looping around untouched native Hawaiian rain forest. You can see lava tubes, steam vents and craters, as well as Kilauea, the most active volcano in the world, which has been erupting continuously since 1982. Think you'll be too tired to travel far after a day of hiking in the park? Book a room at the nearby Kilauea Lodge, located just outside the gate. Built in 1938, the lodge's main building and outlying cottages house 12 rustic, woodsy suites, each decorated with local artwork highlighting the volcano area's indigenous flora and fauna. Spend an afternoon in front of the hearth in the lodge's cozy library, or soothe your tired feet in the hot tub, located in the garden and surrounded by giant ferns. The lodge's restaurant, which serves venison, braised rabbit and Parker Ranch steaks, is an extraordinary destination in itself. Amazingly enough, the lodge is just a one-hour drive from the southern coast's jungles, just in case an active volcano isn't enough excitement (kilauealodge.com). The classic Fijian honeymoon—white sand, blue water, a hut on the beach—lives up to just about everyone’s daydream. In Fiji, that thatch-roofed hut is called a bure, and almost every resort in the archipelago has at least one, whether it’s a guest room, a dining room or a spa. These bure make Fijian resorts feel natural and rustic. But in the past two years, high design has hit the islands, resulting in several new resorts—and a style that’s more cosmopolitan. In your bure, in addition to a romantic canopy of mosquito netting over your bed, you could find chic silk throw pillows and an exquisitely simple duvet. True, you’ll have a direct view of the beach, but you may also have a Japanese-style tub in your bathroom and an infinity plunge pool on your deck. Thankfully, all this modern design hasn’t translated into a loss of character. Instead, a unique kind of Fijian resort has emerged—one that mixes the islands’ traditional design style with sleek décor from all over the world. If you’re looking for elegance in the most remote,...

The Simple Life on Kauai

Fri, 24 Dec 2004 12:00:00 AM

Empty beaches, lagoons full of colorful fish, sleepy surf towns… this is what my new husband, Chris, and I look for when planning an island vacation. We had heard that Kauai was perfect for this sort of trip, as it's the most unspoiled of the developed Hawaiian Islands, which are filled with pricey restaurants, crowded shores and lots of tourists. One winter day, we boarded a plane in New York and set off in search of rural Hawai'i. Our goal: to see plenty of wildlife in a pristine environment, visit pretty villages and spread our towels on beaches with nobody else in sight. We planned to stay at hotels in several different areas during our trip, in order to see as much of the island as possible. Morning GloryWe arrived at the Kauai Marriott Resort and Beach Club late at night, so it wasn't until the next day that we got a good look at the place. I awoke with the sun and, feeling like a country girl already, stepped out onto the balcony of our comfortable room. I breathed in the soothingly fresh, salty air and looked out over the railing. There, just a few feet away, sat a ridiculously large pool shaped like a hibiscus flower, surrounded by fish-shaped fountains and hot tubs and casitas. Beyond wasthe palm-tree-lined beach; I could see the surf crashing as it came in. As I eased into a deck chair, I heard a rooster's morning wake-up call. I stood up, peered over the railing, and saw a pair of roosters on the patio below me, strutting along the deck with their heads held high. I had heard that a hurricane destroyed the island's hen houses years ago, setting the chickens and roosters free to live wild on the island, but I never expected to see them wandering around by a hotel pool, proud as pigeons on the sidewalks of New York. Already, Kauai seemed more "country" than her Hawaiian sister islands—and I had only been there a few hours. Chris and I decided to get breakfast at a little café called the Ono Family Restaurant, just north of the hotel, in the town of Kapaa. The short drive took us past fruit stands selling the produce of the isle—large golden pineapples with sweet yellow middles and oblong papayas with fleshy orange fruit. The restaurant itself is nothing fancy—it's really the Hawaiian version of a diner, with wooden booths and an extensive menu of breakfast items. We passed on the Spam omelet, a local favorite, and tucked into plates of coconut-banana-macadamia-nut pancakes. We drank Hawai'i's famous Kona coffee and quickly began to feel our jet lag melt away. Later that afternoon, by the hotel pool, we basked happily in another of Hawai'i's incredible natural offerings: golden sunshine. Children splashed about and played "Marco Polo" while their parents relaxed and sipped pineapple-laced frozen drinks—and we were glad the pool was big enough that we could have some space to ourselves. Chris and I swam over to a waterfall and let its roar drown out the sound of the other hotel guests.Jungle LoveThe next day, we drove up the highway to the northern town of Kilauea and checked into the Kilauea Lakeside Estate, a two-story, three-bedroom private home that you can rent for your vacation. The property is stunning, strewn about with palm trees, lush ferns and fruit trees. One of the home's breezy porches overlooks a private lake. Inside the house there's a whirlpool tub, which we made a mental note to try out later in the evening. We decided to wander across the road to the little shore town of Kilauea. There, next to a tiny, single-screen movie theater, we found a country-style farmer's market where local growers were selling their small-crop produce out of the back of their trucks. Even if you're not staying at a house with a kitchen, the outdoor market is a good place to buy fresh bananas and admire homemade lei, those necklaces made of flowers that the "Aloha State" is famous for. We picked up some avocados, onions and limes, intending to whip up a batch of guacamole back at the house. By the time we returned to the estate, the sun had set behind the lake and little green gecko lizards—dozens of them—had gathered on many of the windows. Stunned by their sheer number, Chris and I took turns taking pictures of them as we mashed avocados. We settled into the hammock on the porch together with our bowl of guacamole and some chips. Later, with big grins on our faces, we fell contentedly asleep in the moonlight. Seashells by the SeashoreIn the morning, we got up with the sun again and took a day trip to the Lawai cove, in the beach town of Poipu, for a snorkeling lesson with Aloha Kauai Tours. Poipu is known for being the sunniest spot on Kauai. Even though the water wasn't cold, our guide provided us with wet suits so that we could stay in the sea for hours without feeling a chill. Then he led us around the lagoon, letting us hold on to his surfboard when we needed help getting our footing. The Lawai cove looked empty—until we ducked under the water's surface. We marveled at the dozens of different types of fish swimming between us. At one point, Chris waved to a rainbow fish as it circled around, and I made the mistake of laughing—if you change your facial expression when you're snorkeling, water leaks into your mask. I raised my head out of the water, drained my mask, and then slipped under the sea again. Just then, our guide dived down to the sea bottom and pulled something out from under a rock. A black cloud filled the water around his find. When it cleared, I could see an octopus gripping his arm, bobbing and weaving as the guide stroked it and then reached his arm out for the rest of the group to feel. Chris' eyes widened in amazement as he touched the creature's soft, fuzzy body. I kept my distance, deciding that if I were ever again going to enjoy the tako on my neighborhood sushi restaurant's sashimi plate, I would have to forgo making friends with the octopus.After a couple of hours of swimming around the lagoon, we got out of the water and walked down the road a ways to an inlet called Prince Kuhio's Lagoon: Here, we would swim with sea turtles—or so we hoped. (Our guide said that he couldn't promise they would be there, as they move in and out of the lagoon on a whim.) We swam away from the rocky shoreline and there, to our amazement, just a few feet away from the water's edge, were a half-dozen turtles, some as long as four feet. These peaceful creatures moved about the ocean as if in slow motion, lifting themselves up and down with graceful, doggy-paddle-style movements. They watched us as we treaded water, wondering at their lovely bottle-green color. Next, we stopped for a hot-dog lunch at Puka Dog. We learned that these dogs are actually Polish sausages, served in sweet buns and topped with tropical fruit relishes, a mustard made with the local passion fruit called lilikoi, and a garlic-lemon sauce. I ordered mine with pineapple relish and Chris ordered his with coconut and lots of hot sauce, ignoring my grimace. They were delicious and we finished them quickly, along with glasses of house-made lemonade. We ended our day on the lovely—and practically deserted—Anahola Beach, located about 45 minutes north on Kuhio Highway, off an innocuous residential street. To be sure, it wasn't as picture-perfect as pretty Poipu—the sand was dotted with rows of seashells that the tide had brought, and there were some scrubby-looking trees along the edge near the parking lot—but, unlike popular Poipu, it was as empty as a cornfield, save one man who was snorkeling along the reef. Having been warned by a hotel manager about the dangerous undercurrents off many of Kauai's beaches, I waved down the man and asked him if the water was safe to swim in. He said yes, but warned us not to go past the reef, where the bottom sank to lower depths and the waves started to form. Chris and I spent the afternoon swimming, sunning and collecting...

Aloha State" Splurges"

Tue, 07 Dec 2004 12:00:00 AM

If you consider Hawai'i to be a well-to-do family of six islands, you'll appreciate the unique identities of its "siblings." Kauai is a ravishing beauty with movie-star-quality attributes. Maui is hip, a teenager at heart. Oahu is a sophisticated urbanite. The Big Island is in touch with her spiritual side, and her energy pulses through you. Lanai murmurs stories of unrequited love (in ancient times, the "morality police" of the Hawaiian kingdom exiled adulteresses to this island). As for Molokai, she tilts her head, smiles and relishes her isolated beaches and few hotels. Of course, these islands do share the same gene pool—evidenced by their fragrant flowers, sun-drenched beaches and star-bright nights. Come, meet the Hawaiian islands and enjoy their over-the-top romantic goodies. Cosmo OahuVibe Couples looking for a fast-paced, nightlife-driven getaway, not to mention top-notch restaurants, love the island of Oahu, thanks to its sophisticated city of Honolulu. Take a private tour of ancient Kaneaki Heiau (a Hawaiian temple) at Makaha Valley, or the newly opened Shangri La in Honolulu, formerly the private estate of late tobacco heiress Doris Duke. Catch a performance by the Honolulu Symphony or Hawaii Opera. Indulge in fantastic Pacific Rim cuisine at Chef Mavro's restaurant in Honolulu. Hang 10 off Oahu's North Shore, famed for its huge, surfer-friendly waves. Where to Stay: The Halekulani, in Honolulu, sits on a secluded stretch of Waikiki Beach and boasts the gorgeous new Spa Halekulani. Enjoy an intimate meal at the resort's La Mer restaurant, where signature dishes include bouillabaisse and tourte d'escargots (escargot casserole). Call 800-367-2343. For a stay outside Honolulu, check into the '70s-funky Turtle Bay Resort, on Oahu's North Shore. Ride horses at sunset, spot humpback whales (from December to April) and watch able surfers navigate monster waves from your private lanai. Wanna try? The resort's surf school offers expert instruction. Call 808-293-8811. Ravishing Kauai Vibe One look at this lush garden isle, marked by waterfalls and old plantation-style homes, and it's easy to see why it's been a movie set for so many Hollywood flicks. Take a tour to see where South Pacific and From Here to Eternity were filmed. Kauai is also known for its varied landscape. Explore the rugged Na Pali Coast, where the cliffs soar 2,700 feet. Take a helicopter ride over the Waimea Canyon, which Mark Twain named "The Grand Canyon of the Pacific." Sunbathe on Poipu Beach, a gold-sand crescent popular for water sports. Where to Stay: One of Kauai's most luxurious and private spots is the Kilauea Lakeside Estate, a former sugar plantation-turned-botanical garden. Owner Steve Hunt's connection to Hawai'i goes way back—his great- uncle, Joseph Poindexter, was governor of the Territory of Hawai'i before the islands became a state. Enjoy hot-stone massages for two by the lake; hula lessons by moonlight; deserted beaches; and helicopter "picnics" (a pilot flies the two of you and a food-laden hamper to a remote spot Hunt learned about from his great-uncle). You can also take excursions to a nearby movie theater showing art flicks (the building dates back to the late 19th century) and for mango-papaya smoothies at nearby Mango Mama's. There are three bedrooms at the estate, and you must rent out the entire property. Call 310-379-7842. On the west side of the island, stay at Waimea Plantation Cottages, a former sugar plantation. Surprise: The beach has black sand. Once housing for Kekaha Sugar Company workers, the resort's cottages have since been restored. The most romantic? "Hale Iki," a one-bedroom suite fronting the sea, a perfect sunset-viewing perch. Leave a permanent honeymoon memory on The Driftwood Memory Net. Ten years ago, a guest hung a fishing net on the lanai of his cottage and added driftwood for "artistic effect"; over the years, honeymooners have made their own contributions. Call 800-9-WAIMEA. Young-at-Heart MauiVibe Hawai'i's second-largest island has a slogan: "Maui no ka oi" (Maui is best). Not only does this Pacific paradise boast some of the most upscale resorts in the state, it has incredible natural beauty, from a breathtaking coastline to the 10,500-foot-tall dormant Haleakala Volcano. If you experience one activity on Maui, it should be driving the rugged "Road to Hana." The 52-mile-long journey has dramatic twists and turns (600 of them at last count) and 54 one-lane bridges. For the ultimate adventure, rent a convertible and drive this serpentine road yourselves. The Road to Hana takes more than two hours from start to finish, but you'll want to take even longer, stopping along the way to pick guavas, take a dip in one of a handful of swimming ponds and drink in the incredible vistas. The drive ends at the teeny outpost of Hana, a funky town with tons of local character. Visit the Hana Coast Gallery, and Hasegawa's General Store, a local landmark, stocked with Spam sushi (sushi made with, yep, Spam) and poi (pounded taro). Where to Stay: When you reach laid-back Hana, check into the secluded and ultra-romantic Hotel Hana Maui, located at the base of Haleakala. The hotel exudes the ambience of Old Hawai'i from the 1920s, '30s and '40s. Nice touch: Sensual art hangs on the walls of the cottages. Call 800-321-HANA. Bold and Beautiful: The Big IslandVibe Twice the size of all the other Hawaiian Islands combined, the Big Island is home to 11 of the world's 13 climatic regions. Its jagged black lava fields are different from any terrain you've ever experienced, unless perhaps you've landed on the moon. Explore the hiss-and-sizzle spectacle of the active Kilauea Volcano up close by visiting Hawai'i Volcanoes National Park. A memorable way to take it all in: on horseback. A Hawaiian cowboy will lead you into the soul of this spiritual land and to a secluded waterfall. While you and the guy you lassoed splash about, your guide will lay out a picnic of ribs, potato salad, French bread and wine. Then, he'll put on some country-and-western dance tunes (popular on the Big Island) and disappear (temporarily, of course!). Another Big Island lure: It's got 19 (count 'em) golf courses. Where to stay: With private plunge pools and butler service, the super-luxurious bungalows at Mauna Lani Bay Hotel & Bungalows are ultra-romantic honeymoon hideaways. Don't miss a lomilomi hula (a massage choreographed to Hawaiian music) for two at the spa. Then, have your personal chef grill fresh seafood for your dinner while a Hawaiian slack-key guitarist serenades you. Call 808-885-6622. Couples who stay at the Four Seasons Resort Maui at Wailea can expect to be pampered day and night. Guest rooms feature oversized balconies, ideal for ocean-gazing. Do tear yourselves away from your room at least once for a pampering couple's massage treatment, given seaside in a darling thatch-roofed hale (hut). Call 800-334-6284. Wild LanaiVibe With a population of deer almost triple that of its people, and not one traffic light or fast-food restaurant in sight, Lanai is truly a natural, secluded paradise. One of the best ways to explore this former "pineapple island" (Lanai reigned for 70 years as the world's largest pineapple producer) is in an all-terrain vehicle. Ask for directions to the Luahiwa Petroglyphs (on the eastern edge of the Palawai Basin), which date back more than 500 years. On the way there, dip into Manele Bay for an impromptu swim with wild dolphins—they'll come right up to you. Where to Stay: Set high above the white-sand beach of Hulopo'e Bay, the Manele Bay Hotel is a real gem. Its 250 rooms are housed in an elegant two-story oceanfront manse amid red cliffs. The décor is part Hawaiian (think bold florals), part Mediterranean (lots of white and pretty pastels), and each room has a spectacular ocean view. The gorgeous Spa at Manele...

More Hula, Less Moolah

Tue, 23 Nov 2004 12:00:00 AM

Sure, you know you can lie out on the beaches (they’re all public and free) and hike volcano peaks to your heart’s content. But have we got some surprises for you. Here’s our guide to the best low-cost—and even free—offerings on Oahu, Maui and the Big Island. Aloha!MauiDance Fever: Where’s the best place to see authentic hula dancing? Surprise—it’s a shopping mall. Whaler’s Village in Kaanapali hosts a show of Hawaiian, Polynesian and Tahitian dance performances, called “Magical Evenings,” every Monday, Wednesday and Saturday night starting at 6 p.m. at the Center Stage performance space. It’s an impressive production, and—best of all—it’s free to the public. After the show, stroll the oceanfront boardwalk and count your lucky stars that you’re in Hawai’i. Now if you could only move your hips like that… (2435 Kaanapali Parkway; whalersvillage.com).Open House: Looking to feel a part of the community? Skip the touristy luaus and stop by The Shops at Wailea on a Wednesday evening for the free party. Art galleries host artist signings, stores serve champagne and restaurants such as Tommy Bahama’s offer food specials. The best part: Live island musical performances, such as slack-key guitar and ukulele players, start at 6:30 p.m. in the courtyard (3750 Wailea Alanui, Wailea; shopsatwailea.com).Secret Potion: Forget those expensive department store beauty counters: Islanders of both sexes swear by inexpensive, locally made Maui Babe Browning Lotion. It contains Kona coffee, kukui nut oil and aloe, and it works as a topcoat over sunscreen (there is no SPF in the lotion) to turn your skin an amazing cocoa color. The shockingly bronze-hued liquid is slathered on by celebrities, models and sports figures. No matter what your skin tone is now, you have to try it to see how dark you can become on vacation (mauibabe.com).Sweet Treats: Believe it or not, the best dessert on Maui is only $2.50: a cone filled with heavenly ice cream by Roselani, the island’s own artisanal ice-cream maker. Roselani’s best-selling flavors—Macadamia Nut Brickle, Maui Pineapple, Coconut, Kona Coffee and Haupia, a rich, creamy coconut custard—are found throughout the island, including at Maui Yogurt in Kahului. The only downside: You won’t be able to buy the stuff back at home (275 Kaahumanu Avenue, Kahului).Starstruck: Astronomy lovers and romantics alike should make sure to book the Hyatt Regency’s couples-only “Tour of the Stars,” held every Friday and Saturday night at 11 p.m. The package includes a guided tour of Maui’s wide-open skies through the hotel’s 16-inch high-powered telescope, as well as a midnight snack of champagne and straw- berries. Look for star clusters, faraway galaxies and that elusive Southern Cross (200 Nohea Kai Drive, Lahaina hyatt.com).Catch of the Day: Think fresh fish costs more than it should at Maui’s tony restaurants? Head out to Alexander’s in Kihei, where you’ll find the lowest prices on the island for broiled ono, ahi and mahimahi, served with rich house-made sauces. Alexander’s may be just a glorified fast-food joint, but one bite of its fish tempura and you’ll agree—the savory battered fish is the best on Maui (1913 South Kihei Road, Kihei)Home Stay: Torn between booking a hotel room or a condo? The Kaanapali Alii combines the best of both worlds. Rooms here are as spacious as an apartment (they start at 1,500 square feet), yet they come with amenities such as daily maid service and a concierge. Check out the pool, beach cabanas and fitness center, then kick back on your private lanai. You’ll even have your own grill, so you can eat in instead of dining out every night (kaanapali-alii.com).Big IslandCulture Vulture: Just because the Big Island is known more for cattle ranches than museums doesn’t mean you can’t get a little culture fix there. The Mauna Kea Beach Hotel was built by Laurance Rockefeller, who used the building to house his private collection of priceless Asian and Pacific artwork. The 1,600 master works have an in-house curator, who offers free tours every Thursday at 10:30 a.m. Don’t miss the 7th-century pink-granite Buddha, which you’ll find meditating on the manicured grounds (62-100 Mauna Kea Beach Drive; princeresortshawaii.com).Outward Bound: The Fairmont Orchid also offers some amazing tours, and they’re free to guests and visitors alike. See ancient rock carvings at the Puako Petroglyph Preserve, take a snorkeling lesson, or visit the historic Keanapou Fishponds. The hotel’s botanical tours emphasize native Hawaiian plants. Best of all, there’s something for everyone—you just need to call to get the schedule (One North Kaniku Drive, Kohala Coast, fairmont.com/orchid).Not-So-Average Joe: Give that cup of coffee another name—yours! At the Ueshima Espresso Bar and Roastery, you can celebrate your coupledom with a personalized blend of Kona coffee beans that you select and roast yourselves. You’ll get a souvenir bag of your blend with your picture on the package label. While your brew is roasting, you can take an escorted tour of the plant and learn about the history and cultivation of Hawai’i’s famously tasty beans (82-5810 Napoopoo Road, Captain Cook; roastmaster tours include a half-pound of coffee; ucc-hawaii.com).Where’s the Beef? After visiting the island’s cattle ranches and learning about the paniolo, Hawai’i’s cowboys, you’ll probably hanker for beef. The island’s best burgers are found at Aioli’s. Served on fresh, warm buns, they’re made with organic, locally raised Kamuela Pride beef—that is, unless you order a bison or ostrich burger. And while all the burgers are fabulous, some folks travel for miles just to taste the creamy, homemade lilikoi passion fruit cheesecake (65-1227 Opelo Road, Waimea)Check In: The Kona Village is Hawai’i’s only inclusive resort, and it’s a great deal—as well as a step back in time. Don’t expect TVs, telephones or radios. Instead, you’ll find hammocks, and coconuts are propped outside guest rooms in place of “Do Not Disturb” signs. Upscale hale (thatch-roofed cottages) are restocked every morning with juices, fresh Kona coffee and, our favorite amenity, lip balm made with kukui nut oil. The best part: Rates include meals and activities, including snorkeling gear and sailboats. The only thing they don’t include is booze (Kaupulehu, Kohala Coast; konavillage.com).OahuBlast from the Past: Take a stroll back in time at the legendary Sheraton Moana Surfrider, Waikiki’s first hotel, which was built at the turn of the last century. The grande dame property offers free one-hour historical tours Monday, Wednesday and Friday at 11 a.m. and 5 p.m. Your guide will take you to the Historical Room to see vintage Hawaiian Koa furniture and memorabilia, then out, around the Victorian façade and over to the banyan tree where Robert Louis Stevenson wrote poetry nearly a century ago. Our favorite tidbit: During World War II the hotel closed its doors to tourists in order to offer rest to American servicemen. You can almost hear a Glenn Miller tune (2365 Kalakaua Avenue, Waikiki; moana-surfrider.com).Under the Sea: Don’t spend a fortune on an organized snorkeling tour: The Hanauma Bay Nature Preserve is the best spot around, and it costs next to nothing to go. Catch the #22 bus from Waikiki to the preserve, and, when you get there, buy a laminated fish identification card so you can locate the spotted puffer fish and other exotic creatures as you mermaid around (808-396-4229).Blue-Plate Special: Think you could never get a four-course gourmet meal on this pricey island for less than $20? Think again. Book a table at the elegant L’Uraku restaurant, where the “Weekender Lunch” of Euro-Japanese cuisine is a hit each Saturday and Sunday and costs only $16 per person. The menu changes all the time, but a meal might include a Japanese kisu fish and seaweed appetizer, a salad course of mixed greens with house-made dressing, and an entrée of crispy Shrimp Katsu, crusted in panko breadcrumbs and served with a savory dipping...

Marvelous Maui

Mon, 16 Aug 2004 12:00:00 AM

Even on those rare days when there's cloud cover, you can count on the sky's brightening in an hour or two—and when it rains, Maui rewards you with rainbows. It's a place where whales come to calve and dolphins entertain themselves by dancing across the wake of motorboats. The color of the sand ranges from white to shrimp-pink to black, while the water in the bays is bright turquoise. Over it all hulks Haleakala, the world's largest dormant volcano; cattle ranches and exotic flower farms cling to its slopes. Maui just may have it all. There are 81 beaches, 16 golf courses, ultra-luxurious resorts and plenty of nightlife and interesting shopping. Maui also offers newlyweds the opportunity to do absolutely nothing. But for those moments when you're not lazing about together, here's the scoop on what's happening on this stunning Pacific gem. Out and About Fly High: What's the best way to get the lay of the land? Fly over it. Blue Hawaiian's helicopters are piloted by Vietnam vets who know how to give you a smooth ride and an informative tour. You'll be flown into West Maui's valleys to hover near waterfalls, then follow the coastline past the Iao Valley's rainbows. Next, it's over to Haleakala for an eye-popping view of the crater, then back up the lush east side, past Hana's stunning cliffs. Book the "romantic" flight, which stops for champagne at a Haleakala ranch (bluehawaiian.com).Horse Whispering: Don't go home without spending some time in a saddle: This is, after all, the land of the paniolo—Hawaiian cowboys—and ranches. Want to learn how to train horses without intimidating them? The folks at Maui Horses will teach you their methods of respectful, gentle persuasion. (It's a relationship lesson that's perfect for any new marriage.) Then, take a ride along the densely wooded northeast coastline for a spectacular ocean view through the tangled jungle vines (mauihorses.com).Drive On: Almost all of Maui's resorts offer "specials" that include both a guest room and a rental car. Our advice? Skip the package deals, and splurge on a convertible instead. The Hana Highway, Maui's famous drive, is best experienced with the top down. During this two-and-a-half-hour ride, you cruise along a curving, two-lane road with single-lane bridges, hairpin turns and gorgeous views of a rain forest filled with ferns and flowering trees, as well as windsurfers in the turquoise ocean below. Check with your concierge for a map of the highway, or get one at a roadside kiosk (visitmaui.com). The Big Catch: Every winter, more than 600 humpback whales come to the warm basin between the islands of Maui, Molokai and Lanai to calve. You can see them for free from just about anywhere on the island, but you can get up close on the nonprofit Pacific Whale Foundation's two-hour boat ride around Lanai, guided by naturalists. With the price of your ticket comes admission to the nearby Maui Ocean Center, where you can tour an impressive walk-through aquarium. The gift shop is filled with fish-related finds (pacificwhale.org). Make Waves: If you've never surfed, you owe it to yourself to give it a try. Sign up for lessons with champion hang-10 artist Buzzy Kerbox, who teaches on Launiupoko Beach, just south of Lahaina. Buzzy says in just two two-hour lessons almost anyone can become a respectable-enough surfer to go it alone (buzzykerboxsurf.com). Up and Away: Maui has great hiking, and the most famous paths are found at eerily lunar Mount Haleakala. Circle around the rim, or walk through the volcano's seven-mile-long crater. Your first stop: this national park's visitor's center, located at the 7,000-foot mark, where you can get maps for self-guided hikes and information about ranger-guided tours (nps.gov/hale). Pamper Fest: The Spa Grande at the Grand Wailea Hotel offers some of Maui's best sybaritic experiences. This sprawling two-story pleasure palace has a beautiful balcony where you can sit and look out over the ocean while waiting for your treatment. Have a pineapple- papaya scrub , then spend some time in one of the spa's five scented hydrotherapy tubs, complete with waterfalls, and its eucalyptus steam room. Come to relax after a day of hiking or sightseeing, to soothe your tired body—and wedding-planning-weary soul (Wailea Alanui Drive, Wailea; grandwailea.com).Tables for TwoBy the Seashore: Maui's newest and most fashionable eatery is Vino. What could be better than the restaurant's fresh, house-made pasta? The wine list. Sommelier Chuck Furuya oversees a 200-bottle menu and presents two dozen by-the-glass choices that are constantly changing. Plus, the food prices are reasonable. (The $24 Tuscan rib-eye steak is one of the most expensive items.) Order up a couple of steaks and a bottle of 2001 Eneo by Montepeloso, a world-class blend of San Giovese and Cabernet from Tuscany that's rarely found in this part of the world (200 Village Drive, Kapalua). Naturally Delicious: Pacific'O may be known for its plucked-from-the-sea fish, but the vegetables are as fresh as the catch of the day. The restaurant has its own farm, located on the side of Haleakala, where the lettuce, tomatoes, asparagus and even the herbs that end up in the dishes are grown. Chef-owner James McDonald is so serious about working with local farmers that he's been credited with starting Hawai'i's organic food movement. But his waterfront restaurant is perennially popular because the food is just plain great. Order the Pukulani Walnut Salad, filled with arugula, feta cheese and mandarin oranges. You'll literally taste the freshness (505 Front Street, Lahaina). Light a Candle: Romantic Chez Paul is every Hawaiian's favorite west coast splurge, and for good reason: Even after 35 years, it still serves up continental classics with formal panache. Choose from old-fashioned standards like French onion soup gratinée and crème brûlée, or of-the-moment dishes such as cappuccino of lobster bisque with cognac, and caramelized salmon in Grand Marnier sauce. You'll see why most of the people in the room have come to celebrate birthdays and anniversaries—this place is something special (820 Olowalu Village Road, Lahaina; chezpaul.com). To Market: With fruit piled up in big baskets and a rustic wood-plank exterior, Hali'imaile General Store is as unpretentious as restaurants get—and a truly wonderful find. The produce is as squeaky-fresh as the name implies, and the menu, for all its exotic tropical ingredients, is purely Hawaiian. Try the paniolo-style barbecue pork ribs, the macadamia nut-crusted fish with mango butter or duck glazed with sweet ginger-pineapple sauce (900 Hali'imaile Road, Hali'imaile; haliimailegeneralstore.com). Under the CoversFantasy Island: Most of Maui's resorts are built in clusters along the dry southeast and southwest coastline. The exception: the lone 66-room Hotel Hana-Maui, on the lush northeast side. Just last year, the Hana-Maui underwent a complete makeover, but it's still as cozy as ever. The 66-acre property shares the neighborhood with many celebrities, who built their vacation homes in private Hana to avoid the crowds. Rooms have no TVs or radios, and nightlife consists of a post-dinner walk through the hotel's gardens (hotelhanamaui.com). Sweet Dreams: The 548-room Ritz-Carlton Kapalua is West Maui's most luxurious resort, with all the first-rate service and amenities you would expect—and it's also an impressively Hawaiian resort. The hotel employs a culture specialist named Clifford Nae'ole, who takes interested guests on tours of the property and teaches them about Hawaiian history and traditions. The hotel's bluff is a sacred Hawaiian burial ground; the beach below it is magically beautiful (ritzcarlton.com). Exotic Beauty: The 413-room, all-suite Fairmont Kea Lani Maui has plenty of high-end competition in hotel-filled Wailea. What makes this resort stand out is its beautiful Moorish-style architecture. Check into a gracious and comfortable suite, which comes with a king-size bed,...

Hawaiian Island Hopping

Fri, 25 Jun 2004 12:00:00 AM

Kauai is wildly beautiful; the Big Island has a mysterious, volcanic moonscape. Maui boasts laid-back yet luxurious hotels; Lanai is so pristine and unspoiled, it will make you feel you've truly escaped from the world. Whatever Hawaiian setting fits your idea of a dream vacation, all of the islands offer posh hotels and spas, and first-class cuisine. Since hopping among them is so easy, we recommend you visit more than one of these Pacific gems. If you can't, simply pick one that feels right for you. Now here's where to go, where to stay and what to do when you get there. Aloha! Oahu VibeThis popular island is the Hawai'i you know the best—and since it has the biggest airport, many travelers use it as a jumping-off point to the other islands. Don't miss famous Waikiki Beach, with its surfer style, the designer shops nearby, and the historic—and unforgettable—USS Arizona Memorial, at Pearl Harbor. Must Do: Most mainland visitors arrive and gape at the surfers on Waikiki Beach, but you shouldn't go home without picking up a few tricks. Sign up at the Outrigger Hotel Waikiki for a 20-minute surfing lesson. You'll learn technique on the beach, and then try your skills in the water. All you have to do is master one wave—and most students do—and you'll be ready to quit your day job (outrigger.com). Amazing Eats: You can have an island vacation that's flip-flop casual the whole time, but the Sheraton Waikiki's romantic Hanohano Room is a good reason to pack a little black dress. This elegant supper club offers stunning panoramic views of Diamond Head (a dormant volcano) and the miles of green-blue sea along the coastline. You'll be as swept away by the city lights as you will by the Continental-Hawaiian fusion cuisine. Cuddle up in a large, comfy banquette as tuxedoed waiters serve you delicacies such as sesame-crusted opakapaka, a locally caught snapper, with wasabi-flavored mashed potatoes. Didn't get enough slow dancing at your reception? The Stardust Band goes on at 8 p.m. (sheratonwaikiki.com).Hot Spots: Catch the nightly hula dance at The Halekulani hotel's House Without A Key outdoor performance space. Sure, the show is mostly for tourists, but with a magnificent view of Diamond Head and house-made mai tais, blended with fresh juices, you may not care. Plus, the dancing is so good, you'll want to rush out afterward and buy your very own coconut bra and grass skirt (halekulani.com; shows offered daily at 6:15 p.m.).Check In: The Hawaii Prince Hotel Waikiki & Golf Club is famous for stellar service (its dedicated staffers have been known to spend their days off taking guests fishing). Attention to detail is so over-the-top there that they'll give you cold towels to cool off at check in, and the hotel is the only one on the island to offer airport transfers. One bellman was even named Hawai'i's "Bell Person of the Year" for 2003 by the Hawai'i Hotel Association. Check out the honeymoon package it's a steal! For more information visit princeresortshawaii.com. Kauai VibeWith lush waterfalls and cliff-rimmed coastlines, Kauai is dramatic and sensual. Visitors come to explore its wild and varied terrain, and to see marine animals in their natural habitat. Must Do: One great way to view the island's majestic Na Pali coast is by raft. Kauai Sea Tours will take you all around the island, so you can discover sea caves and waterfalls, and spot turtles, whales, tropical fish and leaping dolphins. Then, snorkel along the southern coastline, where you'll get to see truly awe-inspiring cliffs (kauaiseatours.com).Amazing Eats: Hawai'i's real cuisine is the plate lunch, which is basically Asian-influenced Hawaiian-style diner fare. Visit Hamura's Saimin Stand, and choose a seat at the counter of this delightful mom-and-pop luncheonette. Order a bowl of noodle soup ($3.50), filled with saimin noodles, and a slice of lilikoi chiffon pie, made with tart Hawaiian passion fruit. You'll see right away why the locals call this comfort food. Hot Spots: With its jungle-like setting, thatch-roofed grass booths and vintage surfing posters, Keoki's Paradise is as authentic as local restaurants get, and the food is tops. Try the opah, a local fish, which is breaded and cooked in soy sauce. Tip: Make a reservation for a weekend night after 8 p.m., when the place heats up to the sound of Hawaiian rockabilly bands (keokisparadise.com).Check In: Waimea Plantation's cottages may be newly renovated, but this lovely resort still feels very rustic. You can hear roosters crow, see chickens peck the lawns and pick your own papayas and figs off wild fruit trees. The cottages themselves are modern, but have country charm, with a comfortable yet stylish rattan-and-wicker décor as well as front porches with old-fashioned screen doors. You'll feel right at home (waimeaplantationcottages.com). Maui VibeLaid-back Maui combines a casual, beachy style with some of the most decadent hotels, restaurants and spas in the islands. It's relaxed and surfer-cool—and celebrity-filled, too. Must Do: The key to making any tan last? Exfoliation. So before you spend the day swimming in the clear waters off Kaanapali Beach, head over to the Fairmont Hotel's luxurious spa for an awapuhi scrub, made with Hawaiian ginger. This sugary rubdown will leave your skin smooth, soft and primed for a day in the sun (fairmont.com). Amazing Eats: There's a reason why celebs dine at the Four Seasons Maui's Ferraro's restaurant. Everything about its setting, from the black lint-free napkins to the flickering tiki torches on the outdoor terrace, makes diners feel like stars. Enjoy luscious homemade Italian dishes, such as portobello cannelloni, and finish up with the sinful flourless chocolate cake. Then sit back and listen to the sound of waves crashing on the shore below (fourseasons.com). Check In: There's only one place to be in Maui on Friday evening—the Maui Prince Hotel, in Makena. Each week the hotel brings in a local astronomer and sets up high-powered telescopes on the beachfront terrace for "astronomy night." You'll be glad you chose to stay in out-of-the-way Makena, where the skies are unmarred by the lights of more developed towns and prime for stargazing (princeresortshawaii.com). Big Island VibeThis volcanic wonderland is the fertile growing ground for macadamia nuts and rich Kona coffee. It's as diverse as can be—watch the scenery change as you travel from the manicured coastline to the moonscaped interior. Must Do: Mother Nature herself puts on the best show in town. At Hawai'i Volcanoes National Park, 4,000-foot-tall Mount Kilauea has erupted continuously since 1983.The best view is from above! Sunshine Helicopters offers a two-hour fly-by tour of the black-rock landscape with its vivid red lava flows and steam vents. The volcanic images are so dynamic, they'll be burned on your brain forever (sunshinehelicopters.com). Amazing Eats: At Huggo's on the Rocks, you can listen to the waves crashing against the shore, lit by tiki torches, as you sup. Ask for table 14 for the best view, then dive into scrumptious grilled ono fish, a salad of island greens with balsamic vinaigrette, and the restaurant's signature chocolate mud pie with Kona coffee ice cream (huggos.com). Hot Spots: Want to dive or snorkel with manta rays? Go at night, when as many as two dozen rays show up for the evening feeding. Book Jack's Diving Locker's six-hour boat tour and you'll have enough time for plenty of snorkeling or two full dives with these amazingly graceful, winged and toothless creatures (jacksdivinglocker.com). Check In: The best reason to choose the Hapuna Beach Prince Hotel is the beach—a wide expanse of soft, powdery sand next to pale-blue water. Book the honeymoon package, starting at $499 per night, and you'll get a room with an ocean view, round-trip airport transfers, breakfast every morning and a quiet candlelit dinner for two (62-100 Kaunaoa Drive, Kohala Coast; 800-882-6060; princeresortshawaii.com). Or, reserve a room...

Big Fun on the Big Island

Mon, 31 May 2004 12:00:00 AM

Unlike the other Hawaiian islands, this isle's wonders aren't stacked on one coast, they're scattered along all four shorelines, right off Highway 19, which loops around the island. In other words, one road leads you everywhere you need to go, and back again—creating the perfect tropical road trip. And while geography may make the Big Island a natural do-it-yourself destination, it's the countless romantic detours—volcanoes, beaches, gardens—that turn your trip into a fairy-tale honeymoon. Since you'll fly in and out of Kona International Airport, rent a car at the terminal and start your adventure on the Kohala-Kona Coast, which is right nearby. Some people fantasize about convertibles here, but sudden downpours—and falling coconuts—make leaving the top down a risky proposition. Slather your arms and face with sunscreen, put on your sunglasses, and head north on Highway 19 to The Fairmont Orchid at Mauna Lani. The 540-room resort is a prime example of the Big Island's low-key luxury. Spend a day or two lounging around the pool, swinging on the golf course or winding down with a massage in an oceanfront cabana. Don't leave without trying the pistachio-chocolate soufflé at the hotel's on-site splurge, The Grill (fairmont.com). After a couple days of rest, it's time to hit the road. Continue north on Highway 19—a road you'll come to know well—to Naalapa Stables. A wrangler will help you saddle up and a guide will lead you both into pastures of yellow tanzi flowers and through a shady forest (naalapastables.com).Your next stop, Hilo, is on the west—and wet—side of the island. About one-third of the island's residents live in Hilo but, perhaps because of the rain, few tourists visit. They shouldn't dismiss it so quickly: The showers give rise to lush, dense greenery. Right off Highway 19, you'll find the five-room Shipman House Bed & Breakfast (shipmanhouse.com), a stately Victorian mansion. Breakfast here is a good example of the area's bounty: The guavas, figs and bananas in the fruit platter were all grown in the backyard. After check-out, drive to the Tropical Botanical Gardens (htbg.com). Walking through the garden is more like hiking through a jungle, complete with the squeals of birds echoing from the tree canopy. From Hilo, continue on Highway 19 for about eight miles to an overlook to try and spot some humpback whales. Farther along, don't miss the wave-top surfers riding to shore at the Papaikou Surf Area. Head south again until you reach Hawai'i's Volcanoes National Park, home to Kilauea, the world's most active volcano. But don't expect to see pools of boiling lava. Lava tubes empty quietly into the sea, and the only signs of activity are plumes of steam. Still, the park offers great hiking trails, a myriad of birds and Hawaiian petroglyphs (nps.gov/havo). Spend the night at Kilauea Lodge, right outside the gate. Rustic rooms come with fireplaces and towel warmers—not a bad way to end a day on foot (kilauealodge.com). Driving back to Kona, turn left off the highway onto narrow South Point Road. Park your car and follow the orange dirt path for three long miles until glorious Green Sand Beach pops into view. Here, you'll realize it's true what they say about Hawai'i: It's paradise.

Aloha, Hawaiian Spas!

Thu, 21 Nov 2002 12:00:00 AM

Ahh, Hawaii. It conjures images of true-blue skies, breathtaking sunsets and endless stretches of pure-white sand. But the "Aloha State" is rife with more sensual delights as well—like extravagant spa treatments at the islands' poshest resorts. In fact, Hawaii's spas have taken pampering to a new level, and they're celebrating the state's rich history and culture by incorporating traditional Hawaiian healing ingredients and techniques into their treatments. Don't be surprised to find alaea (local red clay), volcanic ash, kukui nut oil and Big Island vanilla beans used in massage oils, body scrubs and facial masks. Even the garden-variety lomi lomi massage, once little more than a shiatsu with lots of oil, has graduated to a near-religious experience. Take the "Temple" lomi lomi at the Four Seasons Resort Maui at Wailea, a marathon two-therapist, two-hour session that involves chanting. According to Hawaiian tradition, this form of deep massage is said to release stress in the muscles and bones, so that you can journey to the stars. Here, seven heavenly tropical spas that you'll both go absolutely macadamia-nuts over. Marvelous Maui You'll feel like a king and queen at the Spa Grande at the Grand Wailea Resort and Spa, a luxurious 50,000-square-foot Italian-style palazzo, complete with imported marble floors, Venetian chandeliers and Roman-style Jacuzzis. Spa guests (past visitors include Dustin Hoffman, Helen Hunt, John Travolta and Halle Berry) enjoy the Terme Wailea Hydrotherapy Circuit, a series of water-based treatments that includes a Jacuzzi bath followed by a plunge in a cold-water pool, a steam bath, a sauna, a Japanese furo bath (picture a shallow, bubbling 105°F pool) and a waterfall shower. Wait, there's more! Have a soak in one of five specialty baths—moor mud (a deep-black mud with curative properties), limu (seaweed), aromatherapy, papaya enzymes, or Hawaiian herbs. Then comes a Swiss shower, with multiple massaging jets of water. The treatment ends with an invigorating honey, mango and salt loofah scrub. Other spa offerings include the Coconut Euphoria bath, where you'll become a human piña colada sans the calories. After a coconut-sugar scrub, soak in a bath of coconut milk and pineapple juice as an attendant ladles coconut milk over you. Then there's the Romantic Interlude, a blissful treatment for two of sandalwood body wraps (said to be an aphrodisiac) and massages, held in an ocean-view room. Call 800-SPA-1933. At the Four Seasons Resort Maui at Wailea, the treatment that's generating lots of buzz is the Aquacranial Massage. After you've changed into a chic, titanium-lined wetsuit, a therapist escorts you to the beach and into five feet of water. An air pillow supports your neck, and your body is gently massaged while your spine and cranium begin to relax (think: straightening a bent garden hose). During winter months, you might hear humpback whales singing beneath the water, and curious turtles might swim by to observe. One rock star, who shall remain nameless, ordered his bodyguard into the water with him (in case a pesky turtle asked for an autograph, we suppose). Some guests request multiple therapists (you can have as many as five massaging you at once); the spa is also happy to arrange for the treatments to be performed jointly on couples in either the pool or ocean. Call 808-874-8000. The Waihua Wellness Center at the Ritz-Carlton Kapalua boasts the Hawaiian Tropical Flower Essence Therapy, a one-hour ritual that uses elements from nature. First, your muscles are warmed with bags of pohaku (warm stones). Then, you're rubbed down with your choice of three flower-essence oils, each with a feel-good theme—self-esteem, stress release and empowerment. Next comes a lomi lomi deep massage, using long strokes. Warm, wet washcloths, soaked in purified water, are placed over your eyes as you're treated to a salt scrub and an aromatherapy mist (made of herbs, plants and flowers). Treatments can be given indoors or in an outdoor hut surrounded by a medicinal garden, where taro, banana and hibiscus grow. Bonus: There's an ocean-side massage hut where couples are given in-sync massages with the fragrant maile oil used in traditional Hawaiian weddings. Or, try the two-hour Kapalua Bliss treatment, where you'll receive a stone body massage, a facial (using a pure-honey exfoliant and an aloe vera mask), and hand and foot massages. Tip: The two of you might want to tackle this one after hula class. Call 808-665-7079.Small Pleasures on The Big IslandThe gorgeous Mauna Lani resort sits on land believed to be a great source of strength and power as well as a spiritual magnet. At one time, only priests and royalty were permitted to visit and reenergize on this sacred land. More recently, Billy Crystal, Nathan Lane, Diana Ross and Katie Couric have been welcomed to this holy place. Forget the fluffy robe—you're a Hawaiian goddess at the Mauna Lani spa, and upon arrival you'll be given a lovely pareo (sarong). Treatments are administered outside in authentic grass hales (thatch-roofed structures open on all four sides). Bring on the heat: Two natural black-lava soaking tubs, carved out of the volcanic landscape, are ideal spots for relaxing. A lava rock sauna, enhanced with aromatherapy, is also a perfect wind-down spot. The hales are set among pretty gardens of jasmine, ginger, gardenias and hibiscus, all said to have healing properties. Treatments are Hawaiian-inspired, including volcanic-ash mud wraps and authentic lomi lomi massages with Hawaiian chants. One of the most popular treatments is The Calming Cocanilla Experience, where coconut pulp oils and Big Island vanilla beans are used to smooth your skin. Then, you're snuggled into a wrap and given a reflexology treatment. The spa's 25,000 square feet of indoor space feature treatment rooms, a Jacuzzi, a lap pool, a steam room and a sauna. Call 808-885-6622. Lovers of the outdoors, rejoice! The Spa Without Walls at The Orchid at Mauna Lani incorporates Hawaiian healing in a totally natural setting. Wellness classes are held under palm trees by the ocean, power walk trails pass though ancient lava flows, yoga classes are conducted at the beach and water aerobics take place in an oceanfront swimming pool. Spa treatments are performed in darling teahouses with views of cascading waterfalls or in oceanside cabanas. Take time to smell the roses with The Wisdom of Roses treatment, in which you'll surrender to a pampering rose salt exfoliation followed by a rose oil massage. Hawaii's Big Island Vanilla Coffee Exfoliation Treatment will also stimulate your senses—a mix of Big Island vanilla coffee and orange creme lotion is used to exfoliate and soften your skin, followed by a spray of vanilla body mist. Give your olfactory nerves a break and try the Art of Massage, a two-hour treatment where a massage therapist teaches couples basic techniques they can try out on each other. Or, succumb to the 45-minute couple's rub, in which expert fingers do all the kneading. Most treatments are best enjoyed in the cabanas, where you can feel the gentle breeze as you gaze out at the ocean. If you're feeling way too pampered (as if!), and find you need to flex your muscles and engage in physical activity, hire a beach boy (translation: instructor) to teach you how to paddle an outrigger canoe (it's not for wimps!) Call 808-885-2000.Oahu, An OasisThe Na Ho'ola Spa at the Hyatt Regency Waikiki Resort & Spa is an oasis situated six stories above bustling Waikiki Beach. Colorful orchids and Hawaii-themed paintings by local artists set the mood. The scent of lavendar oil wafts through the 19 treatment rooms. A glass-walled relaxation area overlooks the Pacific and affords unobstructed views of Waikiki Beach. Custom-blended aromatherapy oils are used for all massages. Be sure to come early to enjoy the dry sauna and relaxation and exercise areas before your treatment. Spa treatments focus on the body's four corners (the...

Experience The Magic Isles

Sat, 19 Nov 1994 12:00:00 AM

Maui Maui gives you three great destinations in one. Year after year Maui is voted "Best Island in the world." Here you’ll find the best of the Hawaiian experience in perfect balance—a sophisticated international destination in a beautiful natural setting. With world-class resorts, professional staff, and easy access by direct air service from the U.S. mainland and Canada, Maui is the first choice for unforgettable destination weddings, honeymoons and romantic getaways.Accommodations include 16,000 rooms and condos in five Resort areas: Kapalua, Kaanapali, Wailea, Makena, and Hana.Special Amenities on Maui include World-class resorts, spas and meeting facilities, 14 championship golf courses, incomparable beaches, water sports and land activities. You can watch Humpback whales frolic in Maui’s warm waters Dec-May. We also have exceptional Five-star regional cuisine and the warm, friendly "Aloha Spirit."Maui’s Golf CoastWhen it comes to golf destinations, no one's got a scorecard quite like Maui’s. Four fabulous resort destinations line the island’s shorelines. Collectively, they house 9 award-winning courses, rated 3.5 stars or better. Each is a wedge shot from the luxurious accommodations within its home resort. All have panoramic views of the ocean and island scenery, and are within an hour’s drive of each other.Maui’s courses include the Kapalua Golf Courses, the Bay and the Plantation course home of SBS Championship where the best of the PGA TOUR compete in the season’s opener. South Maui is home to the Wailea Golf courses, including the Blue, Emerald and the Gold course. The Kaanapali Golf Resort courses host the Senior Skins Game.MOLOKAILĀNA'IFor more information, call (800) 525-MAUI (6284) or go to visitmaui.comMoloka'iWith gorgeous scenery, no traffic, and no buildings taller than a coconut tree, Molokai is an ideal “escape into nature”. Accessible by air or by ferry from Lahaina, Molokai offers Hawaii the way it used to be, and it’s perfect for relaxing; enjoy quiet time together and romantic retreats on Molokai. Accommodations include 200 rooms in Maunaloa and Kaunakakai. You can golf 9 holes at Ironwood Hills.Special Amenities on Molokai include stunning natural beauty, and many activities such as kayaking and deep-sea fishing, hiking, horseback riding, off-road biking, and 4-wheeling. You can experience Hawaiian history too; hike or ride horseback down to Kalaupapa, once the home of Saint Damien and those with Hansen’s disease.MAUI | MOLOKA'I | LĀNA'IFor more information, call (800) 525-MAUI (6284) or go to visitmaui.comLāna'i Lanai feels like your own serene, private haven. If you’re seeking a place that provides the ultimate relaxation, the professional staff on Lanai can create exactly the experience you have in mind. Enjoy world-class golf in morning and a luxurious spa treatment in the afternoon or go horseback riding or biking and then dine deliciously on local produce and game. Lanai is accessible by air and by ferry from Lahaina.Special Amenities on Lanai include two ultra-luxurious resorts, one beachside and one upcountry, 12-station archery facility, English sporting clays, tennis, water sports, and various land activities. Golf is on two Championship golf courses, the Challenge at Manele and the Experience Koele. MAUI | MOLOKAI | LĀNA'IFor more information, call (800) 525-MAUI (6284) or go to visitmaui.com