New Zealand Inn Style

What's the best way to see beautiful, lush New Zealand? Go lodge-hopping, from one luxurious property to another.
By: 
Jeryl Brunner

Blanket BayNew Zealand's scenery is dramatic and mystical, with massive, snow-covered peaks, magnificent glaciers, strands of little isles and green hillsides that tumble into rivers. But you don't have to give up high-thread-count sheets and sleep in a tent to venture into this wilderness for some biking, hiking, kayaking and fishing. In fact, you don't have to "rough it" at all. Posh lodges dot the vastly varied terrain of this two-island nation, offering honeymooners luxuries such as fine wine and down-filled duvets. Not only is a stay at one—or several—of these country lodges a comfortable way to see the natural beauty of New Zealand, it's also a steal; at press time, $1 U.S. was worth about $1.52 N.Z. Read on for information about four remarkable lodges, in four very different parts of the country.

Home on the Range

If you're looking for a true escape, head to the elegant 12-room Wharekauhau Country Estate, located on Palliser Bay, on the North Island, just 90 miles from the capital city of Wellington. Wharekauhau, which is pronounced Forry-ko-ho in the native Maori tongue, is one very rural place. The lodge is set on a 5,000-acre sheep farm, and at any one time there can be from 6,000 to 11,000 little cotton balls running around, readying for one of their periodic visits to the shearing station.

But you'll forget all about the sheep when you see your suite. Guest rooms have gas fireplaces, and the inviting four-poster beds sport big feather pillows and wool duvets. The lodge's mantra is that you should never be without a view of the land, even in your bathroom, where you can soak up the sights through the window by your oversized bathtub.

Ready for some Kiwi-style fun? Sign up for a tour of the shearing sheds, where you can take a turn at shearing and watch the sheep get herded into a flock. Or, try your hand at archery, go horseback riding on the Palliser Bay beach, or opt for a bike or hike through the grassy grazing fields.

After an active day, you'll probably be hungry. The local flavor continues in the lodge's dining room, where regional ingredients are a big part of the menu. You can sample New Zealand rack of lamb, of course, as well as canapés of baby paua (black abalone) and sorbet made from feijoa, a fruit that tastes like a cross between pineapple and quince. The wine list has over 1,000 top selections, including New Zealand's finest, such as Ata Rangi Pinot Noir, Gibbston Valley Pinot Noir and Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc. Seeking another type of libation? Try a vodka tonic made with 42 Below, an award-winning New Zealand vodka that's considered one of the best in the world (wharekauhau.co.nz).

Rooms with a View

For a truly indulgent experience, consider booking a room at Blanket Bay, a lodge located in remote Glenorchy, on the South Island. This is where celebrities such as Robin Williams and Sir Ian McKellan like to hole up. And there's no denying its appeal: The 13-room lodge sits on 65,000 acres, so there's plenty of privacy. The resort is as rustic as it is decadent, with stone walls, exposed beams and plank floors, as well as views of the emerald-green Lake Wakatipu from most rooms. You can admire the lake from your room's terrace, or from the gigantic, 38-foot-high, floor-to-ceiling picture windows in the Great Room, which has deep leather couches set before a stone fireplace.

While it's tempting to idle the day away, you should consider arranging some day trips. Splurge on a helicopter ride, and you'll be flown from the resort's helipad to a remote glacier for a champagne picnic, then whisked off to a seal colony, and to Sutherland Falls, the third-highest waterfall in the Southern Hemisphere. When you get back to the lodge, the award-winning chef Jason Dell can whip up a gourmet meal, including dishes such as grilled New Zealand rack of lamb with black-olive jus, a pumpkin-blue cheese terrine and a hazelnut coulis. Just be sure to save room for the sinful chocolate mousse cake dessert—an appropriately rich ending to the day (blanketbay.com).

A Ferry Good Time

Part of the joy of going to Waiheke Island is the journey there. It's just a brief, picturesque ferry ride from the North Island's bustling Auckland Harbor, yet, as you pull into the quiet isle's little slip, it feels like you've traveled a million miles away.

For years, Waiheke was known mostly as an artist's community, and today, over 70 painters, potters and craftspeople exhibit their wares in local galleries. But just when you think the island's treasures are all manmade, you enter the gates of Te Whau Lodge—and learn that Waiheke also serves up nature at its best. The lodge, which is located atop the Te Whau Ridge, offers jaw-dropping panoramic views of Hauraki Gulf. Te Whau (which is pronounced Tee fow) was designed in a contemporary style, using cedar shutters, wooden walls and glass, which maximizes the views and makes the building blend more seamlessly into its surroundings. Each of the four guest rooms has a balcony overlooking the vast Waitemata Harbour and the city of Auckland beyond, as well as the olive groves and vineyards that are spread throughout the fertile valley.

Spend your days tasting wine, touring galleries or just soaking up the view from your balcony. When the sun sets, head to the lodge's dining room for a wonderful four-course meal. The menu changes daily, but options may include seared scallop canapés followed by savory red pepper-and-cheese tartlets, asparagus with lemon-infused olive oil and fillet of beef with red-wine sauce. After your meal, retire to the outdoor hot tub for a soak under a sky lit by an unimaginable number of stars, and you'll see why the area's unspoiled natural scenery has inspired artists for decades (tewhaulodge.co.nz).

The Royal Treatment

The elegant two-room Long Lookout Gardens, on the South Island, is as sophisticated as an intimate country inn can be. At check-in, you're welcomed with fresh fruit from the garden; cheese and bottles of local wine and port await in your suite. Guest rooms are decorated with rich silk and satin fabrics, plush carpets and beautiful antiques and artwork. The home, which was built in 1864 and rebuilt in 1936, sits above the city of Nelson on one-and-a-half acres of beautifully landscaped English gardens, which are filled with fragrant and colorful rose bushes.

If the property itself weren't reason enough to go, the location would be. Abel Tasman National Park is just a one-hour drive away, and it has beautiful beaches where you might spot penguins and seals. You can also kayak through Marlborough Sound, a pristine maze of waterways in which you'll see more boats than people. The area is also home to New Zealand's largest wine region; its landmark vineyards bottle award- winning—and memorable—sauvignon blancs, pinot noirs and chardonnays.

After a day of adventuring, the lodge is a divine place to come home to. Lounge before the fireplace with a glass of wine, or gaze at moonlit Tasman Bay. Either way, be sure to order a plate of the house-made Pavlova, a fluffy meringue dessert, topped with whipped cream and fresh berries, that's a favorite local treat (longlookoutgardens.co.nz).