Fiji's Rustic Luxe
Hide away at one of Fiji's unplugged resorts, where the world slows down to the pace of the waves just beyond your door.
In Fiji—a group of 322 tropical islands in the South Pacific, 3,500 miles from Los Angeles—some of the world's most idyllic resorts have perfected their own brand of R&R (&R): These havens are remote, romantic and relaxing. By remote, we mean they are accessible only by private yacht, seaplane or helicopter. By romantic, we mean they offer plenty of privacy and amenities, such as beachside massages for couples and oyster-and-champagne picnics on private beaches. And what do we mean by relaxing? We're talking about fall-off-your-lounge-chair, never-wear-shoes, forget-the-name-of-your-new-mother-in-law de-stressing—a luxury that you'll find at each of these three classic Fijian resorts.
Off-Road Elegance
Nukubati Island Resort, opened in 1992, is perhaps the most laid-back resort in the islands. Getting to this tranquil spot—just north of Fiji's second-largest island, Vanua Levu—however, is an adventure. You have two choices: Hop a Fantasy Island-style seaplane flight that lands in the waves or take a larger commercial plane to a nearby airport, then take a 40-minute ride in a four-wheel-drive vehicle over mountains and mud roads, and, finally, catch a boat over to the private island (the ride's just five minutes!). Either way, you'll feel as if you have left the rest of the planet behind—for good.
Nukubati's style is, simply put, down to earth. The hotel's seven bure have a cottage-chic feel, with hardwood floors, louvered window coverings and doors, tropical prints and wicker furniture. Thoughtful details (such as huge front porches for reading, and private sunning areas) elevate the bure to honeymoon-worthy. Another extraordinary touch: large outdoor living rooms, with comfy couches, lamps and rugs, to which champagne and canapés are delivered each night. Every bure also comes with its own private stretch of beach, which is furnished with matching lounge chairs and a sun umbrella.
Wandering among the resort's palm trees and dense foliage, you might feel as if you're staying in a luxury summer camp for grown-ups. The low-key style camouflages the resort's elegant, under-the-radar service—if you get a sunburn, for example, expect a bottle of aloe lotion to be left discreetly on your bedside table. In the resort's restaurant, housed in a massive open-air pavilion, you'll receive that same kind of subtly perfect service, along with a menu that highlights local favorites like fresh fish cooked in coconut milk and served with homemade mango chutney and fresh-baked bread. These traditional island dishes are done simply but flawlessly—in fact, the meals here outshine those at many other resorts that attempt to venture into European cuisine or use artsy fusion techniques.
When it comes to activities, nature provides you with the best of the best. Located on an extension of the Great Barrier Reef called the Great Sea Reef, Nukubati is a short boat ride from an astonishing underwater world of corals, turtles and parrot fish. Although diving and snorkeling are rivals for favorite-activity status, relaxing is definitely the top priority for most guests. As honeymooners, you'll face daunting questions, such as when to receive your complimentary private sunset picnic, and when to book your complimentary couple's massage. Decisions, decisions (nukubati.com).
Boutique and Beachside
Like Nukubati, Qamea Resort and Spa has an isolated, lost-paradise feel, with 15 beachside bure scattered around its 100 acres. It takes a couple of flights, a drive and a boat ride to get here, but it's worth the effort.
The resort's bure are welcoming—not too big, but not too small, either—and feature Fijian décor, such as mahogany floors, seashells, tribal bowls and rattan armchairs. There are also sleek hints of designer input. The chandeliers, for example, are Danish mid-century modern pieces, and the comforters on the beds are stylish, Zen-inspired colored silk.
Throughout the resort, you'll see a mix of Fijian and other influences. Like most hotel spas in these islands, Qamea's spa specializes in massage—here, it's French Guinot treatments, known for a soft, languorous technique and the use of pineapple-scented coconut oils. The staff is also trained to give other treatments from the Paris-based Guinot spas. Imagine entering a very simple hut (which houses the spa), lying down on an outdoor table overlooking the ocean and enjoying a state-of-the-art fruit-acid peel.
When you tire of all this, you can try crab hunting and tribal hand-line fishing, as well as snorkeling and sea kayaking. Guests tend to keep to themselves until cocktail hour, when they flock to the resort's main open-air pavilion. And let's not forget the wonderful cuisine: As at Nukubati, the chefs at Qamea make good use of fresh, local ingredients and highlight regional traditions on their menu. Our favorite: the curry buffet, a Fijian staple made with spicy fish, shrimp or chicken (qamea.com).
Polished to Perfection
Arriving at Vatulele Island Resort in a 12-seater seaplane after a 30-minute flight from Nadi, you coast down through clouds onto the lagoon, or—if the water is too rough—a runway hacked straight out of the jungle. Staff run out to meet you, waving and clapping. You have reached Vatulele, one of the most elegant resorts in Fiji.
The resort's 19 bure are spread throughout 120 acres of beach and jungle, located on an island that's home to several indigenous tribes. Due to a special relationship between the Fijians and the resort, every detail, from the architecture to the activities, reflects authentic traditions. And with an astoundingly high staff-to-guest ratio (110 staff to 38 guests), this small, relaxed spot easily rivals any sophisticated urban hotel in terms of style and service.
The bure look quaint—thatched roofs, stucco walls, open-air doors—but inside, they are stocked with luxe amenities. Each bure measures 2,000 square feet and includes an open-air living room with its own bar (stocked with homemade cookies and chilled wine), a terrace, mosquito-net-draped beds and a massive bathroom with double showers. Hand-carved urns and tribal textiles from the island enhance the Fijian vibe.
Each bure also has a patio, outfitted with hammocks and strewn with fresh tropical flowers. A walk down the forested path leads you to your own beach, with thatched umbrellas, lounge chairs and towels. The crowning touch: a flag that you can plant in the sand when hunger pangs strike, which sends room-service staff running to your side.
Vatulele's emphasis on traditional culture extends to its activities. The island is home to 2,000-year-old cave paintings, whose myths and legends the staff explains on morning hikes. No stay is complete without a visit to a tribal chief for a ceremonial drink of kava (a mildly narcotic pepper-root beverage that leaves your lips a little numb) and a stop at the local market, where women spread blankets laden with shell necklaces, baskets and homemade paper.
Every night begins with cocktails on the beach. On Thursdays, cocktails are accompanied by a meke, or dance. Like everything at Vatulele, the dancing is exquisite—the men flashing spears, the women swaying with fans, the honeymooners hopping up to join. Afterward, everybody goes to dine under the stars on cuisine that ranges from Japanese-style wasabi-coated fresh snapper to Italian tiramisu for dessert. But the favorite honeymoon supper is a private seafood feast of oysters, lobsters, mussels and crabs, served, with cold champagne, on a motu (an uninhabited islet) just off the resort's shore (vatulele.com).






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