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The Maya Mystique

Explore an ancient culture on the modern Mexican Riviera for an unforgettable trip back in time.

by Kevin Garrett
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The Mayan MystiqueThe Riviera Maya—a lush, 80-mile stretch of the Caribbean coastline on Mexico's Yucatán Peninsula—is a beautiful beachfront resort area. The region, which was largely unscathed by Hurricane Wilma, begins just a few miles south of Cancún and extends to the small fishing village of Punta Allen, in Sian Ka'an, Mexico's largest protected biosphere (its name means "where the sky was born"). The drama of the area's natural beauty, with the emerald green of the jungle glistening against the improbably blue hues of the sea, lives up to its romantic name.

But there's more to this increasingly popular place than teal waters fringed by uncrowded, powdery white beaches. As its name suggests, this area is also the home of the Maya people, whose culture has endured for more than 3,000 years. Located here are some of the most significant and majestic Maya archaeological sites, which add an almost mystical allure to the landscape. My wife and I decided to seek out those ancient Maya influences on a recent visit. Here's what we found.

Past and Present in Tulum

After settling into our room at the Iberostar Paraiso Maya (a beachfront all-inclusive resort that opened in 2004), we start off with a visit to the ruins of the small, walled town of Tulum. This Maya port city—it was the last outpost of the Maya, who only ceded it to the Mexican government in 1935—clings dramatically to a limestone cliff overlooking the turquoise waters of the Caribbean. I had visited Tulum a decade ago, as a side trip from Cancún, well before the Riviera Maya acquired its current status as a fashionable hideaway. I've longed to bring my wife back to this magical place.

We arrive early, to beat the crowds, and hire a guide to show us around. He talks about the ancient Maya, describing their contributions to art, mathematics, astronomy and various forms of measuring time. We pause to marvel at the few visible frescoes on The Temple of the Descending God, and at the town's largest building, El Castillo, which once served as a lighthouse to ships passing by on the Caribbean. Visitors are no longer allowed to walk through these magnificent, yet fragile, sixth-century structures, but the magic is still there.

Next, we head to the contemporary town, also named Tulum, to taste the local cuisine. Our destination is Charlie's, a popular spot for regional favorites such as chicken tacos and black bean soup (Tulum and Jupiter avenues; lunch for two, before drinks, tax and tip, $20; 984-871-2573). Here, local artists display their works, and live music is sometimes played on the small stage in the garden out back. We're struck by the friendliness of the people we meet, and we're thrilled to learn that Maya culture still thrives here: Some 400,000 Maya live in the area, speaking their native language and celebrating their ancient traditions. After enjoying our meal, we head to the promenade; gazing at the sea with the warm trade winds gently blowing, we feel utterly happy and serene. Those ancient Maya sure knew how to pick a spot.

Exploring the Natural World at Xcaret

The next day, we continue our exploration with a trip to Xcaret, an eco-archaeological park. A riot of color, from pink flamingos and macaws' crimson wings (the birds' feathers were prized by the Maya), greets us after we fork over $59 each for entry. At first, the price seems a bit steep, but we soon realize that the fee to enter this eco-wonderland is a bargain.

Xcaret ("small bay" in Mayan) is not only home to Maya ruins but to two cenotes, water-filled caves created in the porous limestone by underground, fresh-water rivers and lagoons. Considered holy by the ancient Maya and rediscovered only 15 years ago, cenotes throughout the region have become popular with divers and snorkelers. Here, visitors can float through them, so we don the flotation vests and snorkeling gear provided and head off to explore. As we drift along, shafts of light beam through the holes in the caves, forming natural skylights. The gentle current eventually brings us to a waterfall, where we frolic in the warm, flowing water. We could spend the entire day swimming around here, exploring the caves and the calm bay favored by beginner snorkelers. But there's so much more to see.

The park is a refuge for wild things, like jaguars (nearly extinct, these creatures roam their own islands here), orchids (under cultivation to reforest the area) and butterflies (the Butterfly Pavilion has more than 50 species). After a tour of the preserves, we stop at the Maya ball court and cheer a game of warrior ball, in which guys dressed in traditional Maya garb play a game that looks like hockey, with a flaming ball in place of the puck. We wrap up our visit with a stop at Xcaret's amphitheater for a live performance of "Folklorica Musica," which spotlights all types of Latin American influenced music. My wife, whose childhood fantasy was to be a flamenco dancer, especially enjoys the evening. When we get back to the hotel, we try out our dance moves at the disco.

Maya-Style Relaxation

Our next exploration is all about relaxing—it doesn't even require leaving the grounds of our resort. After a sumptuous dinner at one of the hotel's six restaurants, we finish out the evening at El Spa. I opt for a "Nocturnal Temazcal" treatment, a ritual designed to help you get in touch with the serenity of the night. The therapist, well versed in the ways of the ancients, skillfully uses a combination of hot stones, aromatherapy and special cured mud, along with an herbal bath. A recording of Maya instruments, which mimics the sounds of animals native to the region, lulls me into a relaxed, meditative state.

My wife chooses the "Temazcal Bath," known as the "emperor's bath" in the pre-Hispanic Nahuatl culture. She admits she almost drifted off to sleep to the sound of ethnic instruments. After our treatments, we feel perfectly aligned with nature and each other.

Heading to the Heartland

The next day, we head to the town of Playa del Carmen, also called el Corazon ("the heart") for its location at the center of the Riviera Maya. A sleepy fishing village only a few years ago, Playa del Carmen deservedly wins plenty of attention now for its spectacular beaches and fun shopping by day, and for its vibrant clubs by night. Despite all the new construction that accompanies the process of becoming a tourist hot spot, the area has managed to retain a small-town feel.

It's the shopping that has lured us here—at our hotel, new friends had shown off gorgeous earrings and a beautifully designed bracelet they snagged on Playa del Carmen's Avenida Quinta (a.k.a., Fifth Avenue), and we decided to check it out. As we browse through the shops, we find a multitude of traditional handicrafts; as souvenirs, we buy an amber necklace and a silver bracelet.

For another authentic Maya experience, we head to Yaxche, noted as one of Playa del Carmen's finest restaurants, thanks to its menu of fresh, local foods prepared in regional styles. It is also famed for murals depicting Maya gods and kings, along with reproductions of stelae (stone slabs with inscriptions) from Maya ruins. We try a couple of the Maya-influenced dishes, including halach winic, chicken marinated in tangerine juice and served with a fiery sauce (mayacuisine.com).

Maya Souvenirs

As we're preparing to leave for our flight home, we hear the sounds of mariachi music coming from the beach. We head to the sand to investigate, and discover a wedding in progress. A young couple from Minnesota, surrounded by their family and a few friends, stands before a Maya shaman. We take a spot on the beach nearby to watch their celebration. The shaman explains that in the Maya culture, the union of woman and man represents the union of Mother Earth with the Cosmos. It's fitting that a wedding here pays tribute to the beautiful surroundings. And the memory of this moment, in which our experience of a gorgeous tropical spot is enhanced by the traditions of one of its oldest cultures, is a perfect souvenir of our trip.

Where we stayed: Iberostar Paraiso Maya; 77710 Playa Paraiso/Solidaridad; 52-984-8772800; iberostar.com.

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