Huatulco: Unspoiled Action
Is adventure the name of the game for the two of you? Huatulco, a nine-bay Mexican paradise, has plenty of action and unspoiled beaches.
No doubt Huatulco—with its nine jewel-like bays, tiny villages and empty stretches of beach fronting the jungle-covered mountains of the Sierra Sur—will soon become a hot spot itself. But for now, this rustic area is experiencing a quiet, controlled growth, which means that unspoiled nature is still the flashiest attraction in town.
Not surprisingly, this varied landscape translates into a diverse range of activities for travelers. In fact, though only a few of the bays have been developed and there are only five or six large hotels in the area, numerous local operators stand ready to lead visitors on their own Mexican adventures, whether that means horseback riding and white-water rafting or sunset cruises and unique spa treatments. Here, eight of the best adventures in Huatulco.
Adventure #1: Checking out the scene
The fastest way to get the lay of the land—and the water—in Huatulco is to take a tour of the area's nine bays. Daylong catamaran tours leave from the dock at Santa Cruz each morning, offering participants a chance to take in the dramatic beauty of the crashing surf, limestone cliffs and deserted beaches. You'll visit each of the bays, stopping along the way for snorkeling, sunbathing and a seafood lunch on the beach. The catamarans hold about 120 people apiece, and often feature lively Mexican music. If you'd prefer a quieter, more intimate trip, try a sailboat tour. On a boat holding no more than 30 people, you'll visit about seven of the bays. At sunset, you'll watch the sky and sea turn coral-red (catamaran, Tequila Tours; 011-958-587-23-03; sailing,011-52-958-583-3403; lunaazul.netfirms.com).
Adventure #2: Rolling on the river
One absolutely-do-not-miss adventure in Huatulco is riding the Copalita River. You'll hop onto a six-person craft, then float along, in the shadow of 100-foot-tall cliffs topped with dense brush and wildflowers, past habitats where egrets feed and swallows nest. Toward the end of the trip, you might encounter local kids who've jumped into the river, waving like mad as your raft goes by. But that doesn't mean these trips are all smooth sailing—some fairly fast-paced rapids and boulders pop up along the route as well, which your guide negotiates by ordering you to "Paddle!" or "Alto!" (Stop!). More experienced river-lovers can choose an inflatable kayak for two. Either way, you'll no doubt end up wet and laughing as you reach the end of the trip: a tiny village, where you'll be greeted by friendly people and a family of scrambling goats (Rancho Tangolunda, Lote 3 Mza. 51, Sector H, La Crucecita, Huatulco Bays; 011-44-958-58-971-94).
Adventure #3: Winging it
In Huatulco, it takes only a glance to see a bounty of trees: fruit trees, nut trees, flowering trees—you name it. But if you look a little closer, you'll spot an amazing variety of dazzling birds in those branches as well. Die-hard birders can start at 7 a.m. and hike the wilds of a national park at Cacaluta, scouting for tropical king birds, doves and white-throated magpies. Or, if you prefer a slightly later start, you can arrange to be picked up at your hotel at 9 a.m. for a guided stroll along the shaded, groomed paths of a local golf course—with its surprising treasure trove of birds. You'll spy wild orioles and flycatchers darting among the blooming tulip trees, wild turkeys clambering in the brush, and green-legged stilts pecking for fish in the pond. It's a peaceful start to any morning (011-52-958-581-0012; aqua_terra@terra.com.mx).
Adventure #4: A ticket to ride
Horseback riding is a chance to take in the sights, sounds and scents of your natural surroundings at a laid-back pace—and you don't have to be an expert rider to saddle up. A local rancher will choose a horse and a trail suited to your riding skills and lead you on a three-hour trip along jungle trails, past huge termite mounds and vine-covered elephant-ear trees, to the ocean, where you can ride the horses through the surf or simply stop for lunch at a waterfront fishing shack. This isn't your standard trail ride, where you travel in a large group, tail to nose. Instead, you can customize everything, from the number of riders (two, for example, plus a guide), to the contents and setting of your picnic lunch. Yee-haw! (011-52-958-581-0218).
Adventure #5: A bicycle trip for two
As you bike through a flock of yellow butterflies, beneath a jungle canopy bursting with a thick coat of white and pink May flowers, you might want to stop and just enjoy the moment—or the rest of the day. But then you're off, to see wild eagles at the top of a peak or a small waterfall at the bottom. Mountain-biking excursions in the Huatulco region take you into national parks where wild deer graze and fat iguanas cling to the treetops. More experienced bikers can opt for a trip that follows a 24-kilometer trail near the Copalita River. The route has three massive uphill climbs, culminating in a dramatic final vista from a mountain perch overlooking the jungle canopy all the way to the sea. If you're of a more easygoing bent, you can pedal from town to town and bay to bay, stopping at different outcroppings to enjoy views of the sea (011-958-581-0012; aqua_terra@terra.com.mx).
Adventure #6: Trying an old-school spa treatment
For those who want something more exotic than a Swedish massage, there's a new spa experience in town—or, rather, an ancient one. Huatulco's only spa, an open-air complex with a pool and pyramid-inspired stucco buildings, specializes in a traditional Mexican treatment called temazcal. You sit in a sauna-like room; as the heat rises, a pottery vessel filled with herbs is placed over hot stones. The cleansing—and potent—steam wafts through your lungs (and, somehow, your brain), leaving you blissfully relaxed. If you're really inspired to have an authentic experience, and you can get together six like-minded travelers, you can even try a group temazcal, accompanied by the chanting of a shaman, in the spa's ceremonial hut (similar to a medicinal sweat lodge). Or, just sweat out your toxins on the treadmill, at the small, state-of-the-art outdoor gym (huatulcospa.com; 011-52-958-583-4449).
Adventure #7: Adding a little zip
If bungee-jumping seems exciting but a bit too risky, you might want to try zip lines, the softer cable sport, instead. About five minutes away from the beach, up on the lush hillside of the Sierra Sur, you can strap yourself into a harness and don a helmet, climb up a ladder, hook onto a pulley—and then "zip" down the entire mountain, dangling about 100 feet in the air as you go. The view can't be beat, and the adrenaline rush buzzes through you long after the first 350-
meter, 35-second-long ride. Which is a good thing, because as soon as you land on the platform, you hook up again and zip down the second half of the mountain. This time, due to the steeper pitch, the same amount of distance takes only 20 seconds. Don't worry—a hand brake is provided (011-52-958-58-478-14).
Adventure #8: Hook, line and sinker
Just about anywhere you go in the area, you'll see locals throwing out a line to haul in the family supper or supply the beachside restaurants. Why not join them? Fishing expeditions from the Santa Cruz dock head out at 6 a.m. daily, when the fish are really biting. Make sure to book your trip through a reputable agency that requires life jackets and safety inspections. One good choice, Paradiso, offers customized trips, including one on a traditional panga boat that plies the waters closest to the rocks, where the tuna and mahimahi congregate. Another option is a larger vessel, or jack, which heads out into deeper seas for sailfish. The skippers will let you bring your catch back to the hotel for a fresh-grilled supper (011-52-958-581-0218).





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