Ah, Baja
Baja California lures adventure-seekers with untouched coastline, fascinating colonial towns, luxurious resorts, and more!
South of California, between Tijuana's carnival-like atmosphere to the north and the vacationing crowds at Cabo San Lucas to the south, is the Baja Peninsula. One of the last bastions of "Old Mexico," Baja has mile after mile of untouched coastline dotted with fascinating colonial towns, a flourishing wine country and thriving artists' communities.
The bulk of the Baja Peninsula was virtually untouched by tourism until the 1980s, when newly paved roads connected the larger cities and towns at its edges to the diverse places at its center. Even then, the people who knew and loved the area—wealthy Mexican families who vacationed there each year, and foreigners who'd accidentally stumbled upon it and kept returning—worked hard to keep the region small and sleepy and authentically Mexican. That sense of seclusion might not last forever, however.
The peninsula is being "discovered," and the choice of places to stay has expanded in recent years to include four-star resorts, as well as charming, traditional inns called posadas. But for now, it remains a place where you can stroll the uncrowded wooden streets of a colonial town, drive along remote—often unpaved—roads, or spend the day camped on a quiet beach and then grab a fabulous fresh-fish taco (a local invention) for a delicious bargain meal.
Most of the region's attractions are located along Baja's major thoroughfare, Highway 1, so a road trip from one end of the peninsula to the other is fairly easy to navigate. But it's a big area, and the driving can get a little rough; covering the entire distance can easily take 10 days. Your best bet for a honeymoon might be a trip that incorporates a few days on the road with longer stays in a couple of the towns that appeal to you.
To help you create your own Baja adventure, here's a list of cool spots to see and places to stay, from the peninsula's northern half (Baja del Nord) to its southern stretch (Baja del Sud), roughly following the route of Highway 1. Or, you might start at the southern end, flying into Los Cabos and then driving north toward California. Just remember to pack your sense of adventure.
Guadalupe Valley: Wine Country
The Guadalupe Valley, located about 20 miles northeast of Ensenada (the peninsula's northernmost city), is home to Mexico's thriving wine country. The valley's cultivated region is actually larger than California's Napa, but because it hosts far fewer visitors than places north of the border do, you won't find crowds at its wineries' tasting rooms. And because wine doesn't have the same snob appeal in Mexico as it does in the States, the atmosphere is more relaxed—tours tend to be guided by the winemakers themselves, tastings are generally free and prices are reasonable.
This isn't to say that the Mexican wine industry is not competitive; after all, this is the birthplace of North America's wine industry. Yes, it's true: Grapes and winemaking know-how were first brought to Mexico by Spanish colonists in the late 1500s. Cortés actually mandated that the native population of Mexico plant vineyards. And the first large-scale vineyard in Baja, Bodegas Santo Tomas, was erected in 1888. Winemaking in the area took off to such an extent that threatened Spanish producers asked the king to ban the planting of vines in Mexico, squelching the industry for a few centuries. In the early 1980s, however, the region's winemakers intensified their focus on producing quality vintages, and now wines from the Guadalupe Valley are winning awards.
The largest and most tourist-friendly vineyard is L.A. Cetto. Just follow the signs pointing the way off Highway 3 (the main highway running through Tecate and connecting to Highway 1 at Ensenada), and you won't miss it. It tends to be crowded with cruise-ship passengers on Wednesdays and Fridays, so on those days you might opt for a more low-key vibe and head to nearby Monte Xanic (try their fantastic Calixa Chardonnay) and Chateau Camou (don't miss their cabernet).
No vineyard in Mexico has racked up more claims to fame than Casa de Piedra, located 20 kilometers south of L.A. Cetto on Highway 3. This winery's vintages have a serious, upper-crust following in Mexico City and San Diego, and its winemaker, Hugo d'Acosta, has achieved almost a cult status in the wine industry. Near Casa de Piedra is the unforgettable Restaurante Laja (on Highway 3, just past Km. 83, on the left). There, in what is easily the best restaurant in the region, the kitchen is presided over by former Four Seasons Mexico City chef and Tecate native Jair Téllez, who creates daily prix-fixe menus, pairing local ingredients and locally produced wines. For more information call 646-155-2556 or visit lajamexico.com.
Spending a night at one of the wineries is an ideal way to soak up the valley's tranquil atmosphere. The tiny Adobe Guadalupe offers first-class lodging at a small vineyard just up the dirt road from Chateau Camou. In addition to an elegant hacienda and free rein of the vineyard, the inn offers guests a pool and a gourmet restaurant. For more information call 52-646-155-2094 or visit adobeguadalupe.com.
Santa Rosalia: The Wooden City
Santa Rosalia, a former mining town set on the Sea of Cortés, sits on Highway 1, toward the eastern side of the Baja Peninsula and the Gulf of California. Known as La Ciudad de Madera (The Wooden City), Santa Rosalia attracts tourists with its serene setting, some of the best diving and sport fishing in Mexico, and its unusual architecture.
Here's the story: In 1885, a French company wanted to buy mining rights in the area. Before it would grant that request, the Mexican government required that the company build a town there, employing local materials and workers. The present town has all-wood sidewalks and buildings (per the government's request to use local materials), designed in an incongruous French style (in accordance with the copper company's French sense of aesthetics). Though the mine has long since closed, the buildings are increasing in appeal. While in Santa Rosalia, be sure to check out a notable exception to the all-wood rule: the town's prefab steel church, which was reportedly designed and installed by Alexandré-Gustave Eiffel, architect of Paris' Eiffel Tower.
To immerse yourself in Santa Rosalia's history and take in dramatic views of the sea at the same time, book a room at the historic Hotel Frances. Built in 1886, the hotel has been meticulously maintained—though it's not a trendy place, it is a beautiful old hotel, spotlessly clean and lovingly cared for, and filled with antiques. For more information call the Coasteau 15, Santa Rosalia at 52-115-2-20-52.
Those looking for a deluxe beachfront resort will find it 35 miles south of town, at the Resort at Punta Chivato, which has more than seven acres of seaside beauty on quiet Santa Ines Bay. Three meals a day at its top-notch restaurant are included in room rates. For more information call 52-615-15301-88 or visit posadadelasflores.com.
Loreto: Water World
About 150 miles south of Santa Rosalia on Highway 1, you'll find Loreto, a sleepy fishing village that always seems poised to be the next hot destination in Mexico but never quite achieves that status. Lucky for you! The delay keeps this beautiful area slightly off the beaten path. Named the "Capital of the Californias" by Spain in 1697—the same year the Jesuits founded their first Baja mission, in the town's square—Loreto is a popular fishing spot and the home of a well-known marine sanctuary, The Bay of Loreto National Marine Park. The preserve protects the habitat of nearly 800 species of marine life. You can charter a kayak with Paddling South Tours and spend the day on the water (800-398-6200; tourbaja.com).
Stay with the friendly Giuseppe Marcelletti at his lovely Posada de las Flores, directly across from the mission. Though only a few years old, the posada was designed to complement the mission's architectural style. A swim in the glass-bottom rooftop pool offers views of the sea and the mountains (52-613-13511-62; posadadelasflores.com).
La Paz: Seclusion and Celebrations
One of the larger seaside villages on the peninsula, La Paz has the same sleepy vibe as places like Loreto, but offers a bit more in the way of restaurants and nightlife: On warm summer nights there, the live-music dance clubs that line the city's main, sea-front street are overflowing with young locals, older couples, tourists and even grandparents, all out for a night of music and dancing. Pubs, cafés and taco carts border the town's main plaza. And Tecolote Beach, 30 miles away, is about the best place on earth to lie on a sandy shore fronted by clear, calm water.
For dinner, head toward the town square but stop just short of it, at Café Colibri (52-612-123-3833), a charming place owned and operated by a Roman expat in the back of an antiques shop, where you can enjoy incredibly good southern Italian food on a lovely outdoor terrace. At night, rest at another of Giuseppe Marcelletti's posadas, Posada de las Flores La Paz (52-612-12558-71; posadadelasflores.com). Or head toward Tecolote, and stay at the Moroccan-influenced Club El Moro Hotel Suites (011-52-612-122-4084; clubelmoro.com).
Todos Santos: An Artists' Retreat
The town of Todos Santos, set in a verdant valley bordered by the Sierra de la Laguna Mountains, is sometimes called "Bohemian Baja." It's a lively, welcoming community made up of equal parts local and expat artists from around the world—painters, sculptors, chefs, writers, masons, weavers—who come here to live, work and be inspired. People are serious about the products they create, aiming for great quality, which means that everything here, from bookshops and restaurants to traditional weaving studios, is worth exploring.
Before you leave Todos Santos, you must eat at least once at Café Santa Fe, the town's renowned restaurant. Located in a house on the plaza, the café features several small dining rooms around a courtyard and a large central kitchen that turns out delicious northern Italian cuisine. For more information call 52-612-145-0340.
For a few lovely nights in town, welcome to the Hotel California. Allegedly the inspiration for the Eagles' song of the same name, it's a stylish, recently renovated downtown hotel, complete with a pool, a library, and a restaurant and bar that hosts live music most nights, making it a favorite local hangout (52-612-145-0525; hotelcaliforniabaja.com).
Quiet Luxury: San José del Cabo
At the southern tip of the peninsula, San José del Cabo is the quieter, more elegant neighbor of boisterous Cabo San Lucas. It retains much of its colonial history, with a charming plaza, pretty gardens and narrow, winding streets—but it has also increasingly become the home of modern luxury in Baja. Five-star hotel-spas, upscale boutique inns, art galleries and acclaimed restaurants have turned San José into the preferred Los Cabos destination for the well-heeled Baja traveler.
For elegance and romance, check in to Casa Natalia, a charming boutique hotel in the center of town, with a gourmet restaurant, a couple of fantastic spa suites and a heated swimming pool. Those looking for a larger hotel and more comprehensive spa services should head to "the corridor" between San José del Cabo and Cabo San Lucas, where the ultimate pampering experience can be had at the colorful Esperanza Resort (part of the Auberge chain, known for their California wine-country hotels); the Mediterranean-inspired Las Ventanas al Paraiso, with its incredible spa; or the One&Only Palmilla, where every guest room is assigned a personal butler. (Casa Natalia; 888-277-3814; casanatalia.com. Esperanza Resort; 866-311-2226; esperanzaresort.com. Las Ventanas; 52-624-144-2800; lasventanas.com. One&Only Palmilla; 52-624-146-7000; oneandonlypalmilla.com).
How to Get Married in Baja California
Paperwork:
You must provide a current passport to prove your marital status, certified copies of both the bride's and groom's birth certificates, and the names and addresses of both parties' parents. If either of you has been married before, you will also need a divorce decree or death certificate that shows the marriage ended at least one year ago.
Blood Test:
Required. The test must be performed in Mexico.
Waiting Period:
Two to four days; in some circumstances, this can be waived.
Witnesses:
Four adult witnesses, with photo ID, are required.
Cost:
Approximately $200
For More Info:
Go to mexicotourismauthority.com.





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