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Sister Act

Perhaps, even if you haven’t heard of tiny, unspoiled Zihuatanejo, you’ve heard of her more built-up neighbor, Ixtapa. This larger city is just 10 minutes away by taxi and worth a day trip or even an overnight stay. In Ixtapa, you can sign up for activities unavailable in Zihua, such as swimming with dolphins or playing a round of golf.

Dine We suggest Beccofino, an Italian seafood restaurant on the marina, where the menu features flavorful dishes such as red snapper fillet in champagne sauce, chicken cacciatore and homemade pastas. Don’t miss the rich tiramisu dessert (Plaza Marina Ixtapa; dinner for two, about $90 before tax, wine and tip; 011-52-755-553-1770).

Party Get your groove on at Christine, a disco known for its laser-light shows, smoke machines and varied music—everything from ’80s hits to salsa (Boulevard Ixtapa; admission starts at $10 for women, $20 for men; 011-52-755-553-0333).

Sleep The 423-room Las Brisas resort, on Playa Vista Hermosa, is bigger than anything in Zihua. It has six restaurants and four pools—some with swim-up bars (Playa Vista Hermosa; doubles from $150; 888-559-4329; brisas.com.mx).

Or, book a night at the 285-room Dorado Pacifico, which is located on the city’s main stretch of sand, Playa El Palmar. Here, you’ll find an upbeat, young atmosphere, and a touristy-but-fun weekly “Fiesta Mexicana” dinner show (Paseo de Ixtapa; doubles from $160; “Fiesta Mexicana” dinner show costs $74 per couple; 888-738-4205; doradopacifico.com.mx).

Sun & Siesta

Slow down in Zihuatanejo, a quiet fishing village that's Mexico at its laid-back best.

by Jill Fergus
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Zihuatanejo hasn't changed much in decades. In this sleepy fishing village on Mexico's Pacific Coast, restaurants are housed under thatched roofs, laid-back beach bars can be found along Playa la Ropa and craft shops line the small town's narrow, brick roads. You won't find mega- resorts or raucous, tequila-fueled clubs, either. Rather, Zihua (as it's affectionately called) is all about quiet relaxation and romance. Fortunately, Zihua also boasts some of Mexico's finest boutique hotels, so you won't have to sacrifice modern luxury during your old-fashioned honeymoon.

Sun Gods

A typical day at the Villa del Sol hotel on Playa la Ropa, Zihua's nicest stretch of golden sand: You sit on the beach as midday approaches, and although you may have planned on catching a taxi into town for lunch or a little shopping, it never seems to happen. Instead, the hours evaporate as you catch some rays, then cool off in the infinity pool that overlooks beautiful Zihuatanejo Bay. You sit in the sun, sipping the piña coladas (served in hollowed-out coconuts) and ice-cold Coronas that are delivered directly to you poolside. Of course, the idea of a deep-tissue massage is tempting, as is a tandem parasailing ride. At some point, the hotel's staff discreetly sets the wooden tables standing directly behind your chaise with white linen tablecloths and china, and when you realize that lunching on savory lobster tacos and fresh-fruit margaritas is possible without even leaving the shade of your thatch-roofed beach umbrella, well…the decision has already been made. And that's how the afternoons float by here.

The only luxury resort in Zihuatanejo located right on the beach, Villa del Sol sets the standard for comfort in town, if not on the entire coast, so it's little wonder that it's a member of the Small Luxury Hotels of the World group. The 70 rooms are housed in low-rise casitas that dot a landscaped oasis of palm trees, tropical flowers and meandering streams. The most sought-after rooms (especially by honeymooners) are the one-bedroom lagoon suites: In each, an open-walled living room gives way to an infinity mini pool, which—as you can imagine—is used as much in the moonlight as under the sun.

The bedrooms (air-conditioned, thankfully) feature king-sized beds with Frette linens; satellite TVs, CD players and green-tea-scented Bulgari bath items are other amenities. And the complimentary breakfast of morning coffee and croissants, delivered to the door at exactly the requested time, is a nice touch. Sunsets in Zihuatanejo are breathtaking, and the resort's bar, Orlando's, is an ideal place to enjoy them. Presided over by Orlando Espino for the past 20 years, the margaritas served here are so legendary that even guests from as far away as Mexico City come to test their potency.

Meals are served in the open-air, thatch-roofed dining area, affixed with hanging wicker lamps that create a romantic glow. The menu is as inspiring as the setting: Dishes include crispy shrimp with mango chutney and roasted duck with glazed honey and ginger. The hotel also hosts specialty dinners, such as the Friday night Mexican buffet ($45 per person), where mariachi bands serenade guests and local wines like Casa Madero complement the authentic Mexican dishes.

On Playa la Ropa, things tend to wind down early, so if you crave nightlife, you'll have to head to one of the bars in town, such as Bandido's, where the live music creates a fun atmosphere. But after a lazy day on the beach, we'll wager that you never make it into town at all (Playa la Ropa; hotelvilladelsol.com).

Fiesta Time

La Casa Que Canta is an architectural marvel. Carved out of the rocky cliffs above Zihuatanejo Bay, the hotel's cantilevered, terra-cotta-colored buildings and numerous thatched roofs create an authentic Mexican-style hideaway. Inside, Mexican crafts and folk art fill the public spaces: Chairs are painted with the likeness of artist Frida Kahlo, animal sculptures hail from Oaxaca, and brazilwood carvings top the tables.

There are just 29 rooms, so, even when full, the hotel—which, like the Villa del Sol, is also a member of the Small Luxury Hotels of the World group—never appears crowded. One of the most luxe accommodations is the one-bedroom Mexico Lindo suite, which features an open-walled living area furnished with comfy couches and colorful throw pillows. Here, there are no televisions or clocks to jolt you back to reality. Even better, the suite has a private deck with a plunge pool and a hammock. Playa la Ropa is a short walk away, but why bother, when you have a private pool?

Despite these in-room luxuries, the focal point of La Casa Que Canta remains the blue-mosaic-tiled infinity pool, which seems to hang right off the cliff's edge. Giddy hotel guests fling their arms carelessly while hanging over the pool's rim, raising them only to summon the waiter for another mango margarita.

A more intimate spot—and one that invariably appeals to newlyweds—is the less-frequented lagoon-style saltwater pool, which is located under a small grotto waterfall, just a few flights down from the infinity pool. Re-applying sunblock and canoodling take lots of energy, so when you've worked up an appetite, simply ring the house phone and a lunch of ceviche or quesadillas will be delivered.

After an early-evening hot-stone massage or a seaweed wrap, emerge refreshed and smartly dressed for a meal under the stars at the hotel's Terrace restaurant. Start off with the Mexican tapas plate or the tortilla soup, followed by grilled fish with pico de gallo or roasted lobster tail on a bed of jicama. Another excellent dining option is Kau Kan (10 minutes by foot from the hotel), with an open-air patio lit by lanterns. Chef-owner Ricardo Rodriguez's modern take on traditional Mexican cuisine is gaining quite a following: You'll understand why when you try the stingray in butter sauce or the grilled shrimp with corn and pineapple.

Best of all, when you return to your hotel room, you'll find fresh flower petals artfully arranged in intricate designs on your bed (lacasaquecanta.com).

Inn Style

One of Zihua's most charming places to stay, La Quinta Troppo, has just eight rooms. At this cozy cliffside bed-and-breakfast inn, every guest room is individually decorated, and the top suites—La Ropa and Las Gatas—feature comfortable canopy beds and sitting areas that overlook the water. Here, sunset cocktails and dinner are served on the upper terrace. Dishes include black bean soup, grilled lobster and seared tuna in wasabi-ginger sauce.

Everything about the inn is casual. When you want a pitcher of margaritas, head down to the tiny lobby area, which is decorated with local crafts. Here, the guest services manager can help you whip up a batch of drinks—or arrange for a taxi into town, where you'll find many excellent places to dine. Check out Garrobos, a restaurant known for its tiritas, thin strips of fish marinated with onions, hot peppers and lemon juice. Since La Quinta Troppo isn't on the beach, many guests rent chairs from nearby restaurants, including Rossy's on La Ropa and La Perla, for just $10 per day. Another option: Hire a boat in town to take you to Las Gatas, a good snorkeling beach accessible only by water. After you've spent the day frolicking in the warm bay waters, the two of you will be happy to head back to the privacy of the inn (Camino Escenico a Playa la Ropa; www.laquintatroppo.com).

Great Escape

One of Zihuatanejo's newest inns, the five-room Amuleto, is also the most remote, which is part of the draw for many guests—especially privacy-seeking honeymooners. (It's a 10-minute drive from the far end of Playa la Ropa.) Situated at a high elevation, the inn offers postcard-perfect views of the entire bay that are without equal—they're reason enough to stay here, too.

Hole up in the open-walled Palapa Room, housed under an enormous thatched roof. This suite comes with a small plunge pool and a muslin-draped king-sized bed, which is perfectly positioned for maximum exposure to nature's own air-conditioning: the ever-present bay breezes.

The inn's new restaurant is being overseen by Kau Kan's Ricardo Rodriguez, who has planned a seafood-rich menu, with plenty of red snapper and sea bass. Though the restaurant is open to non-guests, it's wise to book early since there's just a handful of tables. Can't get one? Stop by for a sunset cocktail. As you watch the sun sink in the Pacific, you'll inevitably dream of returning to Zihuatanejo. When you do, we bet it will be just as peaceful and enchanting as when you left (amuleto.net).

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