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Want a taste of the real south of the border? Head for the history-rich Old Yucatán, a lush region marked by ancient ruins, hacienda-style hotels and some of the country's most pristine beaches.

Travel 50 miles south of the bustling resort town of Cancún and you'll discover the Yucatán Peninsula of yore. It's a seacoast region where miles of untrammeled beach border robin's-egg-blue waters and where ancient Maya ruins (the Maya were the area's first inhabitants) and centuries-old colonial cities provide a historical counterpoint to the high-rise, developed Cancún region. For the sensual part of your honeymoon in the Old Yucatán, pack your sexiest sandals and your slinkiest bikini. For exploring, take along a pair of walking shoes—the Maya ruins are an irresistible adventure. Want a true taste of Mexico (translation: no Doritos)? This is the spot to hang your sombreros.

Playa del Carmen

Thanks to the strikingly clear waters around the Yucatán's main town of Playa del Carmen, scuba divers have flocked there since the 1960s, following in the fin-steps of the legendary Jacques Cousteau. Today, the town of Playa (as it's affectionately called) is an affordable, slow-paced alternative to Cancún. It's a laid-back scene where townsfolk lounge in the sun and dogs romp on the beach, darting in and out of the bathwater-warm surf. In the downtown area, near the ferry docks, you'll discover lovely and casual outdoor restaurants where meals of langosta (lobster), fresh red snapper, pollo pibil (chicken cooked in banana leaves) and poc chuc (spicy pork with onions and tomatoes) are served, as well as icy-cold Mexican beer. One of the best: Chac Mool, on Playa's main thoroughfare, Quinta Avenida.

Shop owners in Playa haggle with bargain-hungry customers over the price of an embroidered dress, hammock or quartz sculpture. All of this hubbub happens within a one-block radius of the beach, which is undoubtedly the region's main attraction. The Yucatán is blessed with one of the finest stretches of sand anywhere, miles of which are empty. Arguably, the nicest beaches are in the village of Playacar, just south of town, thanks, in part, to their baby-powder-soft sand.

There is a scattering of new, fantastico resorts in Playacar, including The Iberostar Quetzal, where guest rooms are housed in three-story bungalows; junior suites are ideal for honeymooners who dig Jacuzzis, four-poster beds and Mexican-tile floors. There are four large pools, including one with a swim-up bar, and a spectacular beach overlooking the island of Cozumel. Bonus: Roll out of bed and throw on your fins and mask; there's excellent scuba diving and snorkeling right off the hotel's beach. For more information visit www.iberostar.com.

The 188 rooms at the Continental Plaza boast ocean-view balconies and marble baths. The beach is one of the best in Playa del Carmen, far less crowded than those to the north. Swim, kayak and sail along the coast. In the cooler hours at sunset, partake in everyone's favorite activity: a quiet stroll along the beach, hand in hand with your señor, where you can watch the breeze gently sift through the royal palms. An 18-hole golf course and a dive center are also on site.

In town, the 33-room Shangri-La Caribe has hosted honeymooners in its beachside two-story thatched bungalows for years. All rooms have patios or terraces, each with a hammock, and a lovely swimming pool area (in hot Mexico, a resort without a pool is like a day without sunshine) beckons to sunbathers with its chaise longues and refreshing water. Call 800-538-6802.

Explore the Ruins

Two hours west of the Playacar coast are the don't-miss-them Maya ruins of Chichén Itzá. You could make it a day trip, but we recommend you stay a night at the luxurious Hotel Mayaland to get in an early-morning visit to the ruins the next day. This way, you'll arrive ahead of the tour buses, which start rolling in about 10 a.m. Call 800-235-4079.

One of Chichén Itzá's fascinating sights is the large stone pyramid called El Castillo. Built with the calendar in mind, its four 91-step staircases, which lead to the top platform, add up to the 365 days of the year; a good example of the mathematical and architectural sophistication of the Maya. Climb the steep stairs for exquisite views of all the other ruins, and ponder the formidable task of building one of these impressive structures.

Once you've explored the ruins, you'll undoubtedly want to beat the heat. In these parts, there's no better way to do that than by jumping into a refreshing cenote (a deep sinkhole made of limestone with a pool at the bottom). Located just a mile from Chichén Itzá, Ik-kil is one of the Yucatán's most inviting cenotes. Descend a ladder, and you and your honey might luck out and have the serene blue waters to yourselves.

More ruins await along the remote Puuc Route, about an hour's drive west from Chichén Itzá and about an hour's drive south of the city of Mérida. This hillier region of the Yucatán is cooler and attracts fewer travelers than Chichén Itzá since it is farther from the resort towns. Some visitors find the Maya ruin of Uxmal, found on the route, to be more impressive than the better-known Chichén Itzá—the complex is smaller, but its rounded pyramid is higher than Chichén Itzá's. Look for serpents and the heads of jaguars, typical Maya symbols, among the motifs of the Nunnery Quadrangle, a collection of four ruins just behind the Uxmal pyramid.

Again, you could day-trip there, but why not spend the night? At the stunning Hotel Hacienda Uxmal, the 80 guest rooms are spacious and airy, with pretty Mexican-tile floors. They surround a central garden courtyard with towering palms, a bar and a pool. Sample fantastico Yucatecan fare at the hotel's Café Bar Nicte-Ha.

Wander the Cities

From Uxmal, head to the small colonial port city of Campeche, on the Gulf of Mexico, to spend the day. Red-, blue- and yellow-colored two-story apartment buildings with wrought iron terraces line a 12-block section of the city. Just off the city's main square, Plaza Principal, stands the regal Catedral de la Concepcion, the Yucatán's oldest cathedral.

Several upscale shops in Campeche sell more than the usual hammocks, Panama hats and Kahlúa commonly found in this area. You'll find colorful woven handbags, elaborately embroidered dresses and terra-cotta pottery at Tukulma, on Calle 10 No. 333. Facing the Gulf of Mexico, the newly-restored Hotel Baluartes was Campeche's first luxury property. Each of its 100 guest rooms has been refurbished with new tiles and furniture. Ask for a room overlooking the Gulf.

Campeche is also home to La Pigua, one of the finest restaurants in the Yucatán. Make a reservation for lunch, the largest meal of the day for Mexicans. You're in for an abundant feast that includes Campeche caviar and filete de pescado (grilled fish in a green sauce). Be sure to visit Edzná, just outside the city and one of the most famous archaeological sites in the country. It's believed to have been an important trading center.

Two hours north of Campeche is the much larger city of Mérida. As in many Mexican cities, most of Mérida's hubbub is centered around its main square, called Plaza Mayor. Bordering this square you'll find the oldest cathedral on the North American continent, built between 1561 and 1598; the large columns of stone inside the massive structure were taken from the former Maya city of Tiho. Sample excellent Mediterranean food at Alberto's, such as celustun (bass stuffed with shrimp). Later, listen to boleros (passionate Mexican music) at El Trovador Bohemio.

If you want to stay right in the heart of the city, choose the Hotel Casa del Balam, located on the main strip, Calle 60, and within walking distance of the city's major sites, shopping and restaurants. The 52 rooms are spacious, and double-pane windows keep out traffic noise. Call 800-624-8451.

Outside Mérida, a handful of haciendas (former estates of plantation owners) have been converted into luxurious hotels. Hacienda Katanchel is a 17th-century structure that's surrounded by 650 acres of forest and gardens. Call 999-920-0997. The 18th-century Hacienda Xcanatun occupies a nine-acre estate and offers 18 suites, each with its own veranda or balcony and Yucatecan hammock.