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In the shadow of modern Cancún, ancient cities beg to be explored and centuries-old haciendas transport travelers back in time.

As you travel deep into the Yucatán Peninsula, you'll find a land crowded only with memories of a magnificent bygone civilization: that of the ancient Maya, who built cities in this region over 1,200 years ago. Today, you can explore these now-crumbling ruins, located in the middle of dense forests, then enjoy modern comforts at a nearby hotel—most likely a posh hacienda with thick, centuries-old walls that glow a buttery yellow under the fiery sun.

A trip to this part of Mexico is a bit off the beaten path—from Cancún, the nearest site is a 40-minute drive away and the farthest is eight hours. But couples with sturdy walking shoes and a sense of adventure say it's well worth the time it takes to get there. Our advice: Fly into Cancún and rent a car, then fly home from Campeche. (Tip: It's cheaper if you make the reservation from home.) Roads in the Yucatán are well-marked and well-maintained, so don't worry about doing it on your own. Just try to reach the ruins in the morning, before motor coaches bus in hundreds of day- trippers who'll end up in your photos.

Are you ready for a honeymoon steeped in history? Pack your walking shoes and sunscreen, and you're off!

Tulúm

Just 80 miles south of Cancún, Tulúm is an easy introduction to the Maya world. With a mere 50 structures, it is the smallest excavated site. But that doesn't mean you should skip it. As soon as you arrive in Tulúm, located on a stunning bluff above the azure Caribbean, you'll start to feel as though you've left the 21st century behind. Many of the site's fat-columned, 1,000-year-old temples still have intact roofs, and the stunning Temple of the Frescoes is filled with paintings that look so fresh, they might have been completed yesterday.

Once you've had your fill of the ruins, set off for your hotel—the 90-room, all-suite Paraíso de la Bonita is just a one-hour drive away. This resort may lie at the entrance to the ancient world, but it's as modern and glamorous as can be. You'll quickly succumb to the luxury of Frette linens and Bulgari bath products. Ask for a room on the lower level—these come with private plunge pools for starlit skinny-dipping. Snorkel and dive all afternoon, then book a couples' massage on the beach (Carretera Cancún-Chetumal, Quintana Roo; paraisodelabonitaresort.com).

Cobá

From Tulúm, you'll need to head inland through the hardwood forests to see the next Maya city. Cobá is just a scant hour northwest, but it's far older and seems centuries removed from modern Cancún. In this humid, hushed jungle, hungry vines climb over jagged ruins and tangled paths. Only five percent of the complex's 6,500 sites are excavated, but the jungle is so dense that you'll want to hire a guide at the entrance to help you negotiate it. Inhale the sweet smell of the tropics as you walk toward the city center, which is dominated by the Castillo, one of the highest pyramids built by the Maya. The road is prowled by jaguars, but don't worry—they'll avoid you, so you won't have to avoid them.

There's only one place to stay near Cobá—Hotel Villas Arqueológicas, a mere five-minute walk from the ruins—but it's a gem. The small, 40-room hotel is Club Med-operated and as laid-back as can be, with lush vegetation and warm yellow walls. After a dip in the pool, relax on a red-and-white-striped chaise longue or cool off at the thatch-roofed bar with a tasty michelada, beer mixed with fresh, tangy lime juice in a salt-rimmed glass (clubmed.com).

Chichén Itzá

Chichén Itzá is almost two hours northwest of Cobá, but it's worth the trip—this UNESCO heritage site is one of the largest of the ancient Maya cities. Spend all morning prowling evocative temples and gazing at stone-faced gods. Then, cool off in the shady Group of 1,000 Columns, where you can avoid the heat and the crowds. Lost among the imposing Platform of Venus and the awesome Pyramid of Kukulcán, you'll feel like you're the last two people left on the earth.

Ancient life is not the only attraction. There's a fine choice of souvenirs at the small village near the ruins, and not the typical hats and T-shirts, either. Buy a handmade hammock for the patio of your first home—the matrimonial especial is huge, with more than enough room for you both to stretch out. Or, choose an embroidered shawl to throw over your shoulders in the evening.

The Mayaland Hotel is so close to the ruins that you'll see the tops of the pyramids from your window. Check in, ditch your treasures in your room, then saddle up for a horseback ride to Old Chichén. Rides leave three times daily from the Mayaland, traveling along a narrow path overhung with orchids. Later, you can return to the hotel and lounge by one of three pools; strolling musicians will serenade you. The hotel's four restaurants serve Maya specialties—don't leave without trying the cochinita pibil, a local preparation of pork marinated in orange juice and cumin, and baked in banana leaves (mayaland.com).

Uxmal

On your way to Uxmal from Chichén Itzá, stop in Mérida, the cultural center of the Yucatán Peninsula. (It's a two-hour drive west.) Linger in the sprawling colonial town center, watching as modern Maya women go about their business in traditional garb, and seeing the city sights from a horse-drawn carriage. Then set off for Uxmal, which is another two-and-a-half hours northwest.

Although smaller and less touristy than Chichén Itzá, Uxmal is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The main pyramid, the Temple of the Dwarf, has some of the steepest stairs of any Maya ruin, but the views are worth the climb. At the Nunnery Quadrangle—so named because it looks like a convent—you'll see elaborate geometric designs, carved masks and serpents, and tall vaulted arches, all made of stone. There's a haunting atmosphere at Uxmal: Hidden tombs harbor stone-chiseled inscriptions hardly anyone can read, lost pyramids are continually being excavated and studied, and the mystery of why the civilization collapsed is still keeping archaeologists busy 1,000 years later.

After touring the ruins, spend the latter half of the morning in the village, where locals speak Mayan to one another and Spanish only to strangers. Then, take your lunch at Misión Uxmal, where you can sit by a beautiful teardrop-shaped pool, sip piña coladas and eat garnachas, thick handmade tortillas spread with beans, spiced meat and even spicier salsa (Km 78, Highway 261; 011-52-99-76-20-22).

For your overnight, choose the lushly tropical Hacienda Uxmal, ideally located next to the ruins (and also run by the Mayaland). Admire the hallway's original hand-painted tiles and curved entryways, details that let you know the hacienda is authentic. In the morning, take a sunrise stroll together in the lush botanical garden, where the birds will sing their songs just for you (mayaland.com).

Edzná

The Maya built some of their largest cities in the western portion of the Yucatán, but today this part of the peninsula is just being discovered—meaning it is way off the beaten path. The region's capital city of Campeche is about 100 miles northwest from Uxmal, and although the roads are paved, they're not freeways, so expect the drive to take half a day. Once you arrive in Campeche, Edzná is another 40 miles south. Edzná's peak period was from 500 to 900 A.D., when over 200 structures were built across as many square miles. Twenty of these buildings are now restored in a small area, including the Temple of the Mask and the Five Story Building, a majestic pyramid with a grand staircase. Take your pictures by the staircase, and then wander through the impressive ruins.

The remote setting of Hacienda Uayamón, near Edzná, makes it a top candidate for any couple's retreat. This fabulously restored 19th-century sisal plantation has a spectacular pool set within the crumbling walls of the former factory. On the site of the former workers' cottages, you'll now find impeccable (and comfortable) casitas, with mahogany furniture, black-and-white tile floors and louvered windows. In the evening, when things start to cool off and a breeze crosses the property, a watermelon margarita will quench your thirst before the candlelit stroll back to your jungle love nest, a perfect retreat under a velvety sky. From the Uayamón, Campeche's airport is just a 20-minute drive up the coast, and then you're back in civilization—modern civilization, that is (starwood.com).