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Fiesta Time

Los Cabos is Mexico's stylish hot spot, full of tony resorts, posh spas and glitzy restaurants.

by Laurel Delp
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article 65
At the southernmost point of Mexico's Baja Peninsula, the rocky desert and its towering cardon cacti give way to white-sand beaches and turquoise water. Here, the Sea of Cortés meets the Pacific Ocean at Los Cabos, or "The Capes." Commonly known as Cabo, the area consists of two major towns: San José del Cabo, which has the area's best restaurants and shopping, and the more modern Cabo San Lucas, full of festive nightclubs like Cabo Wabo. Between them is the spectacular 20-mile stretch known as "the Corridor," where most of the luxury resorts can be found. For years, this area has drawn A-list celebrities who seek the best spas, cuisine, fishing and golf—and today it's hotter than ever. Sound like your kind of honeymoon? Here's what to see in this oceanfront playground.

Where to Hang Your Sombrero

Cabo is not the place for someone looking for that quaint Mexico of myth—it's sophisticated and trendy. As a result, hotel prices are high. Fortunately, these properties are worth the extra money: They really do it up, starting with candles and soft, haunting music in the lobbies. Almost all of the hotels along the corridor have breezy terraces for private moments, and some of the guest rooms even have fireplaces for those chilly winter evenings.

Sweet Dreams: It's hard to find a more romantic place than Las Ventanas al Paraiso , which translates to "the windows to paradise." A spectacular open lobby offers views across the terraced swimming pool to the ocean beyond, and white stucco hacienda-style casitas descend toward the beach, which is dotted with hammocks shaded by thatch-roofed palapa umbrellas. The waves, while pretty to look at, make the water too rough here, and everywhere else in Cabo, for swimming. Sign up for an excursion out of town instead, or ask the concierge to book a tee time at the swanky private Robert Trent Jones II golf course nearby. At the hotel's posh spa, indulge in everything from massages to local healing techniques using organic desert herbs. There's even a bar stocked with almost 50 varieties of Mexico's national drink, tequila. Come bedtime, wind down on your guest room's balcony, furnished with a telescope through which you can admire the stars (rosewoodhotels.com).

On the Rocks: The décor of the three-year-old, 56-room Esperanza is pure Baja, with hacienda-style casitas and thatched roofs. The hotel's most romantic restaurant has been terraced into a cliff, with the bar conveniently located on top. Rooms are decorated with original Mexican artwork and handmade furniture, but modern conveniences have not been ignored—there's even a full-service spa and an extensive gym (KM 7 Carretera Transpeninsular; esperanzaresort.com).

Par for the Course: The One and Only Palmilla , one of Cabo's oldest resorts, recently underwent a $90 million refurbishment. Fortunately, the colonial-style hotel has retained its signature country-club vibe, as well as the inviting driveway that curves from the highway to the hotel past an emerald-green golf course. There's a new spa and a gym, but the resort's best feature has always been its fantastic beachfront location, right next to one of Cabo's few swimmable coves. You can borrow a fishing boat from the hotel—that is, if you can tear yourselves away from the gorgeous infinity pool (KM 7.5 Carretera Transpeninsular; oneandonlypalmilla.com).

Design on a Dime: Thanks to an uneven, rugged coastline, most of Cabo's resorts appear to be completely isolated, but don't be deceived: Around each bend is a familiar name-brand hotel that generally offers a good value compared to the tonier choices. Our favorites are the Westin Regina and the Sheraton Hacienda del Mar Resort and Spa , both Starwood properties. The Westin is a knockout: It's painted the same brick red that the mountains on either side turn at sunset, and its interior walls are actually built right into the cliffside (KM 22.5 Carretera Transpeninsular; starwood.com). The Sheraton, on the other hand, looks like a colorful colonial pueblo. Rooms are large, and the grounds are lovely; if you're going to save money by choosing a garden-view room, this is the place to do it (KM 10 Corredor Turistico; starwood.com).

Modern Art: The Casa Natalia isn't on the shore, but you won't miss the sand at all. Located in a turn-of-the-last-century building right off San José del Cabo's bustling zócalo (town square), this modern boutique hotel has 20 individually decorated rooms that are full of whimsical art and vivid colors. Every guest room has a chic simplicity, as well as a furnished terrace. Want to hit the beach? Casa Natalia runs a shuttle to a private club with a swimming pool and restaurant. In exchange, you get to be within walking distance of the best shops, galleries and restaurants in town (Boulevard Mijares 4; casanatalia.com).

Tables for Two

Envision burritos and refried beans when you think of Mexican food? Then you're in for a treat. As Cabo is on the ocean, most of the menus here feature seafood, especially shrimp and scallops from the local waters. Fresh chiles, limes and cilantro add zest to the flavorful cuisine.

Holding Court: When viewed from the street, Tequila restaurant hides its best feature—a beautiful interior courtyard—like a secret. At night, this garden comes closer to being a scene than anywhere else in town, with a casual but chic atmosphere. Order grilled fish with cilantro, followed by tequila and cigars (Manuel Doblado 1011; tequilarestaurant.com).

The Real Deal: At Casa Natalia's Mi Cocina restaurant, the courtyard setting is striking and the menu is made up of elegant plates based on traditional Mexican fare. You might order familiar dishes such as chiles poblanos or a spicy mole, but they will be light and artful (Boulevard Mijares 4; casanatalia.com).

Go Fish: Damiana has been around forever, and it's famous for seafood. Dishes like abalone in chile-garlic sauce are simple and traditional, but very good. Don't forget to try the restaurant's namesake liqueur—it's said to be a powerful aphrodisiac (011-52-624-142-0499).

Now and Zen: Looking for seafood that's a little different? Reserve a table at Nik San in San José del Cabo. This Japanese restaurant and sushi bar is a favorite with residents who don't think that sashimi is such a stretch from the local cuisine: They were raised on the "cooked" raw fish in tangy, citrusy ceviches.

In the Bag:You won't find the same kind of shopping bargains in Cabo that Oaxaca and Mexico City offer, but you'll still pay less than you would at home. Head to the excellent shopping area in San José del Cabo, and look out for handmade cigars, as well as impressive Mexican arts and crafts such as ironwork and colorful carvings.

The Shop Around the Corner: At Veryka, which is located next door to Casa Natalia on Boulevard Mijares, the main drag, you'll find Mexican crafts ranging from inexpensive tin Christmas tree ornaments to major works by some of the country's great folk artists. This is a good place to learn about Mexico's regional crafts: The shop has art books on display that you can examine, and photographs of the local artisans hang on the walls.

Smokin' Hot: Buyer beware: Most of the "Cuban" cigars you'll find for sale in Cabo are actually made in Mexico, then labeled "Cuban." But not at Amigos Smoke Shop, a boutique that stocks the real thing. There's a small bar in the back for evening stogies and drinks, including some stupendous old scotches. Best of all, the shop will deliver your purchases right to your hotel (C. Doblado at Morelos.

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