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There's more to this idyllic island than just surfers and sunshine. Here, our insider's guide to the ultimate vacation in paradise.

Even on those rare days when there's cloud cover, you can count on the sky's brightening in an hour or two—and when it rains, Maui rewards you with rainbows. It's a place where whales come to calve and dolphins entertain themselves by dancing across the wake of motorboats. The color of the sand ranges from white to shrimp-pink to black, while the water in the bays is bright turquoise. Over it all hulks Haleakala, the world's largest dormant volcano; cattle ranches and exotic flower farms cling to its slopes.

Maui just may have it all. There are 81 beaches, 16 golf courses, ultra-luxurious resorts and plenty of nightlife and interesting shopping. Maui also offers newlyweds the opportunity to do absolutely nothing. But for those moments when you're not lazing about together, here's the scoop on what's happening on this stunning Pacific gem.

Out and About

Fly High: What's the best way to get the lay of the land? Fly over it. Blue Hawaiian's helicopters are piloted by Vietnam vets who know how to give you a smooth ride and an informative tour. You'll be flown into West Maui's valleys to hover near waterfalls, then follow the coastline past the Iao Valley's rainbows. Next, it's over to Haleakala for an eye-popping view of the crater, then back up the lush east side, past Hana's stunning cliffs. Book the "romantic" flight, which stops for champagne at a Haleakala ranch (bluehawaiian.com).

Horse Whispering: Don't go home without spending some time in a saddle: This is, after all, the land of the paniolo—Hawaiian cowboys—and ranches. Want to learn how to train horses without intimidating them? The folks at Maui Horses will teach you their methods of respectful, gentle persuasion. (It's a relationship lesson that's perfect for any new marriage.) Then, take a ride along the densely wooded northeast coastline for a spectacular ocean view through the tangled jungle vines (mauihorses.com).

Drive On: Almost all of Maui's resorts offer "specials" that include both a guest room and a rental car. Our advice? Skip the package deals, and splurge on a convertible instead. The Hana Highway, Maui's famous drive, is best experienced with the top down. During this two-and-a-half-hour ride, you cruise along a curving, two-lane road with single-lane bridges, hairpin turns and gorgeous views of a rain forest filled with ferns and flowering trees, as well as windsurfers in the turquoise ocean below. Check with your concierge for a map of the highway, or get one at a roadside kiosk (visitmaui.com).

The Big Catch: Every winter, more than 600 humpback whales come to the warm basin between the islands of Maui, Molokai and Lanai to calve. You can see them for free from just about anywhere on the island, but you can get up close on the nonprofit Pacific Whale Foundation's two-hour boat ride around Lanai, guided by naturalists. With the price of your ticket comes admission to the nearby Maui Ocean Center, where you can tour an impressive walk-through aquarium. The gift shop is filled with fish-related finds (pacificwhale.org).

Make Waves: If you've never surfed, you owe it to yourself to give it a try. Sign up for lessons with champion hang-10 artist Buzzy Kerbox, who teaches on Launiupoko Beach, just south of Lahaina. Buzzy says in just two two-hour lessons almost anyone can become a respectable-enough surfer to go it alone (buzzykerboxsurf.com).

Up and Away: Maui has great hiking, and the most famous paths are found at eerily lunar Mount Haleakala. Circle around the rim, or walk through the volcano's seven-mile-long crater. Your first stop: this national park's visitor's center, located at the 7,000-foot mark, where you can get maps for self-guided hikes and information about ranger-guided tours (nps.gov/hale).

Pamper Fest: The Spa Grande at the Grand Wailea Hotel offers some of Maui's best sybaritic experiences. This sprawling two-story pleasure palace has a beautiful balcony where you can sit and look out over the ocean while waiting for your treatment. Have a pineapple- papaya scrub , then spend some time in one of the spa's five scented hydrotherapy tubs, complete with waterfalls, and its eucalyptus steam room. Come to relax after a day of hiking or sightseeing, to soothe your tired body—and wedding-planning-weary soul (Wailea Alanui Drive, Wailea; grandwailea.com).

Tables for Two

By the Seashore: Maui's newest and most fashionable eatery is Vino. What could be better than the restaurant's fresh, house-made pasta? The wine list. Sommelier Chuck Furuya oversees a 200-bottle menu and presents two dozen by-the-glass choices that are constantly changing. Plus, the food prices are reasonable. (The $24 Tuscan rib-eye steak is one of the most expensive items.) Order up a couple of steaks and a bottle of 2001 Eneo by Montepeloso, a world-class blend of San Giovese and Cabernet from Tuscany that's rarely found in this part of the world (200 Village Drive, Kapalua).

Naturally Delicious: Pacific'O may be known for its plucked-from-the-sea fish, but the vegetables are as fresh as the catch of the day. The restaurant has its own farm, located on the side of Haleakala, where the lettuce, tomatoes, asparagus and even the herbs that end up in the dishes are grown. Chef-owner James McDonald is so serious about working with local farmers that he's been credited with starting Hawai'i's organic food movement. But his waterfront restaurant is perennially popular because the food is just plain great. Order the Pukulani Walnut Salad, filled with arugula, feta cheese and mandarin oranges. You'll literally taste the freshness (505 Front Street, Lahaina).

Light a Candle: Romantic Chez Paul is every Hawaiian's favorite west coast splurge, and for good reason: Even after 35 years, it still serves up continental classics with formal panache. Choose from old-fashioned standards like French onion soup gratinée and crème brûlée, or of-the-moment dishes such as cappuccino of lobster bisque with cognac, and caramelized salmon in Grand Marnier sauce. You'll see why most of the people in the room have come to celebrate birthdays and anniversaries—this place is something special (820 Olowalu Village Road, Lahaina; chezpaul.com).

To Market: With fruit piled up in big baskets and a rustic wood-plank exterior, Hali'imaile General Store is as unpretentious as restaurants get—and a truly wonderful find. The produce is as squeaky-fresh as the name implies, and the menu, for all its exotic tropical ingredients, is purely Hawaiian. Try the paniolo-style barbecue pork ribs, the macadamia nut-crusted fish with mango butter or duck glazed with sweet ginger-pineapple sauce (900 Hali'imaile Road, Hali'imaile; haliimailegeneralstore.com).

Under the Covers

Fantasy Island: Most of Maui's resorts are built in clusters along the dry southeast and southwest coastline. The exception: the lone 66-room

Hotel Hana-Maui, on the lush northeast side. Just last year, the Hana-Maui underwent a complete makeover, but it's still as cozy as ever. The 66-acre property shares the neighborhood with many celebrities, who built their vacation homes in private Hana to avoid the crowds. Rooms have no TVs or radios, and nightlife consists of a post-dinner walk through the hotel's gardens (hotelhanamaui.com).

Sweet Dreams: The 548-room Ritz-Carlton Kapalua is West Maui's most luxurious resort, with all the first-rate service and amenities you would expect—and it's also an impressively Hawaiian resort. The hotel employs a culture specialist named Clifford Nae'ole, who takes interested guests on tours of the property and teaches them about Hawaiian history and traditions. The hotel's bluff is a sacred Hawaiian burial ground; the beach below it is magically beautiful (ritzcarlton.com).

Exotic Beauty: The 413-room, all-suite Fairmont Kea Lani Maui has plenty of high-end competition in hotel-filled Wailea. What makes this resort stand out is its beautiful Moorish-style architecture. Check into a gracious and comfortable suite, which comes with a king-size bed, a large marble bathroom and a kitchenette—as well as plenty of space to stretch out in. Enjoy the Kea Lani's impeccable service, too: You won't forget the chilled towels and fresh pineapple by the pool, and private dinners on the terrace (fairmont.com).

Smallville: Shun big resorts? Fortunately, Maui has one of the most charming bed and breakfasts in the islands: the 10-room

Old Wailuku Inn. The inn may be a family-run business, but it's incredibly elegant, and an inspired peek into life in old Hawai'i. Each room in the circa-1924 house has a flower-inspired color scheme, with exquisite traditional quilts to match, and is kept cool and breezy by the soothing trade winds. Some rooms have wicker furniture, eucalyptus-wood floors and private gardens. Save time to browse through the inn's extensive library of books on Hawaiian history (mauiinn.com).

Under the Covers

Fantasy Island: Most of Maui's resorts are built in clusters along the dry southeast and southwest coastline. The exception: the lone 66-room

Hotel Hana-Maui, on the lush northeast side. Just last year, the Hana-Maui underwent a complete makeover, but it's still as cozy as ever. The 66-acre property shares the neighborhood with many celebrities, who built their vacation homes in private Hana to avoid the crowds. Rooms have no TVs or radios, and nightlife consists of a post-dinner walk through the hotel's gardens (hotelhanamaui.com).

Sweet Dreams: The 548-room Ritz-Carlton Kapalua is West Maui's most luxurious resort, with all the first-rate service and amenities you would expect—and it's also an impressively Hawaiian resort. The hotel employs a culture specialist named Clifford Nae'ole, who takes interested guests on tours of the property and teaches them about Hawaiian history and traditions. The hotel's bluff is a sacred Hawaiian burial ground; the beach below it is magically beautiful (ritzcarlton.com).

Exotic Beauty: The 413-room, all-suite Fairmont Kea Lani Maui has plenty of high-end competition in hotel-filled Wailea. What makes this resort stand out is its beautiful Moorish-style architecture. Check into a gracious and comfortable suite, which comes with a king-size bed, a large marble bathroom and a kitchenette—as well as plenty of space to stretch out in. Enjoy the Kea Lani's impeccable service, too: You won't forget the chilled towels and fresh pineapple by the pool, and private dinners on the terrace (fairmont.com).

Smallville: Shun big resorts? Fortunately, Maui has one of the most charming bed and breakfasts in the islands: the 10-room

Old Wailuku Inn. The inn may be a family-run business, but it's incredibly elegant, and an inspired peek into life in old Hawai'i. Each room in the circa-1924 house has a flower-inspired color scheme, with exquisite traditional quilts to match, and is kept cool and breezy by the soothing trade winds. Some rooms have wicker furniture, eucalyptus-wood floors and private gardens. Save time to browse through the inn's extensive library of books on Hawaiian history (mauiinn.com).

Steal These Rooms: The 510-room Sheraton Maui isn't just the most striking resort in the popular town of Kaanapali, it's also the best buy. The Sheraton goes out of its way to cosset honeymooners: Plus, this part of Kaanapali offers the island's best snorkeling. After a long afternoon of swimming together, join the other guests at the beach bar to watch the lighting of the tiki torches, which marks the end of another busy day of play (sheraton.com/maui).