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Swiss Bliss

Welcome to authentic timber chalets that offer mountain vistas, shimmering lakes and-after a day on the trail-candlelit fondue dinners.

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Swiss BlissSwitzerland's chalets, with their low-pitched roofs, timber exteriors and shuttered windows, are just as picturesque as the snowcapped Alps that surround them. And, with their distinctive charm, these chalets make perfect honeymoon hideaways. Whether you visit in winter (November through March) for the skiing or in summer (May through August) for the excellent hiking, the stunning Alpine scenery will define the experience. Most travelers fly into Zurich or Geneva, then take the train to a few different areas. We found three intimate hotels, in three regions, that deliver old-fashioned Swiss décor as well as modern luxuries, such as whirlpool tubs, plush terry cloth robes and gourmet restaurants with eclectic wine lists. From rustic to grand, these chalets offer the best of the old and the new.

Mountain Magic

Stay at the Hotel Guarda Val, which has 34 rooms spread out among 10 chalets, and you can explore Switzerland's pastoral side. Since it's a mere three hours from Zurich, this hotel, located just above the quiet resort town of Lenzerheide, makes a great first stop. In addition, its relatively low elevation allows you to adjust to the altitude before visiting resorts that are located higher up in the mountains. On a summer day you can hike through dairy farmland, past pastures filled with grazing cows and meadows dotted with fragrant wildflowers. (At night, count on being lulled to sleep by the jingle of distant cow bells.) In the winter, you can schuss down the ski trails that lace the pine-tree-covered mountains.

In keeping with the hotel's rustic surroundings, the guest rooms are tidy and comfortable, if not sumptuously decorated. Since farmers once occupied the 300-year-old chalets that make up the property, it's no surprise that the whitewashed rooms have a homey feel, with stone walls and cross-pane windows hung with lace curtains. Each guest room also features a kitchenette (which you can stock with treats you've purchased in town) and a dining nook. In the wintertime, fending for yourself in your warm love nest may seem more appealing than pulling on your snow boots and venturing out for dinner.

If you want a little more dazzle, splurge on the two-story Stailetta Suite, which has sleek furnishings, a wood-burning stove, and a large marble bathroom with a sauna and a Jacuzzi that's positioned beneath a skylight. You'll want to soak in the massive circular tub every night—it's a plum place to ignite the flame of romance, especially if it happens to be snowing outside.

The property has two restaurants: One specializes in casual comfort food, including rich cheese fondue made with locally produced Emmenthal (which is what we call "Swiss" cheese), while the other serves more elegant dishes, such as filet of venison with truffle sauce and house-made spaetzle dumplings. The real highlight here is breakfast. With 10 different kinds of muesli, six house-made jams, 10 local cheeses and a variety of cured meats and breads, this is one meal you'll wish you could wake up to every day (011-41-81-385-85-85; guardaval.ch).

The Hills Are Alive

The town of Wengen-Mürren, located deep in the Jungfrau Mountains, about an hour from the beautiful resort town of Interlaken, looks like it jumped straight out of the pages of Heidi. Here, you'll feast your eyes on white mountain peaks set against a blue sky; all around you are streams and waterfalls, as well as pastures covered with flowers in the summer.

Many area hotels try to mimic the adorable chalet homes that make up the town, but the 18-room Hotel Caprice, with its sleek, contemporary furnishings and a restaurant that serves haute cuisine, offers a modern take on chalet style. Step into the lobby and you'll find elegant chairs and sofas upholstered in dark-brown velour, accented with faux-mink throw pillows. Book shelves house art books, and in winter, a fire blazes in the black-lacquer fireplace and guests gather for glasses of Italian prosecco.

At dinnertime, treat yourself to a formal meal in the hotel's chic dining room. The menu is experimental and eclectic, fusing Swiss ingredients with flavors that range from Continental to exotic. Try the terrine of foie gras topped with cherry-ginger chutney and beetroot syrup, followed by steamed turbot served with pasta and octopus. For dessert, you can't go wrong with the pineapple with curry ice cream or a peach tart perfumed with herb-scented laurel leaves.

After you've had your last sip of coffee, retire to your room, where there's not a cuckoo clock or lace curtain in sight. Instead, the space is outfitted with knotted blond-wood beams, a whirlpool tub and a comfortable, distressed-wood bed. Best of all, each room has French doors that open onto a private balcony where the view of the mountains is stunning—and truly unforgettable (011-41-33-856-0606; caprice-wengen.ch).

Closer to Heaven

If your honeymoon fantasies involve a bustling ski resort, the picturesque town of Zermatt may be just the ticket. It's located about four hours from Geneva and is accessible only by train—cars are not allowed in town. While there are many first-rate places to stay, the 72-room Riffelalp Resort is by far the most romantic. It's located high up in the mountains, a 20-minute train ride from Zermatt's shopping and nightlife—just far enough away to feel secluded, yet close enough that you can enjoy a day in the boutiques or a night on the town.

This is the classic Swiss chalet at its most refined. Riffelalp opened more than 100 years ago as a playground for the rich and famous. Today, the hotel maintains the same standards of luxury, from the champagne and fruit tray that greet you in your room to the sublime Swiss chocolate placed on your pillow each night. A state-of-the-art wellness center offers plenty to do on days when the weather isn't cooperating, from a steam room (perfumed with essential oils) to an irresistible grotto of plunge pools and waterfalls. There is also a heated outdoor pool, as well as a menu of spa services. Like fine wine? Riffelalp offers daily tastings in its cellar.

Guest room décor marries luxury—a whirlpool tub, fluffy white towels, richly embroidered coverlets—with traditional appointments, including wood beams and intricately carved beds. The views are spectacular—the legendary Matterhorn is visible from most rooms.

But don't just stay inside and admire the vistas. Zermatt is famous for its impressive ski trails. After an exhilarating run, ski right up to the resort, leave your equipment at the front door and make your way to the handsome piano bar for a whipped-cream-topped coffee spiked with schnapps. At dinnertime, trade your Ugg boots for heels, and head downstairs to the hotel's opulent Alexandre restaurant for a five-course dinner, or to the casual Walliserkeller, a timber-lined restaurant that serves raclette, a local favorite of melted cheese spread on bread and potatoes. On a chilly winter day, nothing tastes better (011-41-27-966-05-55; riffelalp.com).

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