Uncover Europe's Secret Cities
Choose one of these off-the-tourist-track destinations and discover the continent's most underrated-and romantic-honeymoon spots.
Northern Exposure
This striking Finnish city may be the coolest place on the planet—and we're not talking about climate. Helsinki is an irresistible blend of old-world elegance and youthful energy. When the weather is balmy, the streets vibrate with outdoor festivals and music fairs, and sunlight lingers until midnight. In wintertime, when the sun sets in the early afternoon, Helsinki creates its own light show. It's magical: Monuments are lit up around the clock, ponds freeze over into luminous natural skating rinks and icicles dangle like crystals from tree branches.
Start your exploration at Senate Square. The centerpiece of the regal-looking square is the blue-domed and colonnaded Lutheran Cathedral, the most photographed church in Finland. Nearby, the austere Russian Orthodox Uspenski Cathedral, with its 13 domes, serves as a reminder that Imperial Russia dominated Helsinki for more than 100 years. In contrast, the surrounding Helsinki of today is design-savvy and ultra modern. Head over to Kiasma, the city's six-year-old Museum of Contemporary Art (011-358-9-1733-6501; kiasma.fi), where you can see edgy installations and thought-provoking performance art. Designed by American architect Steven Holl, the building embodies the essence of Finnish design—expect curvy, linear glass walls and galleries illuminated by natural light.
Come nighttime, Chez Dominique, one of Helsinki's hottest restaurants, is the place to be. This intimate 34-seat eatery recently earned its second Michelin star, which means that snagging a reservation requires advance planning. (Fortunately, you can reserve a table online.) Start with the terrine of duck foie gras with melon sorbet, and then proceed to the roasted lamb. Feeling adventurous? Opt for the nine-course "surprise" tasting menu (201-805-7036; chezdominique.fi).
For a complete change of gastronomic pace, reserve a table at the city's long-time special occasion splurge, the Savoy. Alvar Aalto, Finland's most famous architect, designed the interior of this elegant room, which is located on the top floor of a 10-story building and offers views of Esplanadi Park and the Lutheran Cathedral. The Savoy rose to iconic status when it became the favorite haunt of Carl Gustav "Marski" Mannerheim, Finnish hero and president of the republic from 1944 to 1946. Marski's favorite drink is now the Savoy's signature cocktail, a potent brew of vodka, aquavit, dry gin and vermouth. The Savoy has an extensive and elaborate menu, but after imbibing a Marski or two it will appear less daunting. Our favorites: the elk chateaubriand with brambleberry sauce, and the cloudberry soufflé—for two, of course (royalravintolat.com/savoy).
After dinner, follow the locals to Corona Bar, a billiards room crowded with struggling artists and hopeful rock stars sipping Finnish beer as they rack 'em up. You'll notice the locals nonchalantly watch the door for a glimpse of the bar's co-owner, Finnish film director Aki Kaurismaki, who sometimes pops by. At Motherbar, oversized couches invite intimate conversation, and the homey ambience makes you feel like you're hanging out in a friend's living room (www.333mother.com).
When you're ready to call it a night, grab a cab to the Hotel Kamp, Helsinki's most renowned hideaway (savoy.fi). Recently and lavishly refurbished, the historic hotel has retained its fin de siècle style—and its eclectic clientele. (The Art Deco Library bar remains the premiere meeting spot for artists and aristocrats, poets and politicians, stars and starry-eyed lovers.) Rooms are romantic, spacious and, equally important, right next to the city's high-design boutiques. Best of all, you can turn up the heat with another Finnish ritual: the sauna. The Finns go to the sauna in the morning, in the evening, in summer and winter. They usually sauna au naturel, and often in groups, so ask the concierge to reserve one of the hotel's private saunas for you. For authenticity, request a vihta, a birch twig locals use to gently massage and stimulate each other's skin as they bask in the steam.
—Margaret Jaworski
La Dolce Vita
Turin is famous for two things: First, it's the home of the Shroud of Turin, said to be the cloth Jesus' body was wrapped in after he was crucified. Second, it's the home of the Fiat car company, butt of a million "Car Talk" jokes and yet still the pride of Italy.
Yes, Turin is the Detroit of Italy, but the actual industry is relegated to the suburbs. Turin's center contains all the ingredients for a classic Italian honeymoon, and it's also one of the loveliest cities in the country. You'll walk along arcade-lined streets more elegant than Bologna's, taste cuisine more refined than Milan's, see palazzi more royal than Rome's. And if royal is what you're looking for, remember this: Before modern Italy was cobbled together by Garibaldi in 1861, Turin was the seat of the princes of Savoy.
Although the city does have a handful of fine-art museums, don't feel you have to spend your honeymoon checking off all the must-see paintings on your life list. Instead, just live, Italian-style. Wander hand in hand past Baroque buildings that are a bit worn around the edges—not glossy, like a Vegas version of Europe. Start at the Via Roma, which progresses from the leafy Piazza Carlo Felice, across from the train station, through the high-Baroque Piazza San Carlo to the Piazza Castello—site of two royal residences, the Palazzo Madama and the Palazzo Reale. Continue past the Piazza Castello to the Cappella della Sacra Sindone, where the Shroud of Turin is displayed. If there's a line, don't bother waiting: the piece of cloth you'd see is actually a replica, not the real thing. Do, however, take a tour of the Palazzo Reale—the guide may speak only Italian, but all you need to appreciate the ornate state apartments is fluency in the international language of luxe.
If you'd rather gaze into each other's eyes than at buildings, spend some time relaxing in the city's caffès. Your first stop should be the Caffè Mulassano, which dates back to 1907 and is paneled with carved exotic woods (caffemulassano.com). Or, go to Al Bicerin, Turin's oldest continuously operating coffeehouse. This cozy wooden jewel box has been serving its namesake blend of coffee, hot chocolate and cream on this site since 1763 (bicerin.it/eng). There's only one thing the Turinese take more seriously than coffee, and that's chocolates, which originated here around 1800. When you're done people-watching, stop by Peyrano-Pfatisch for gianduiotti, rich, hazelnut-flavored chocolates that you'll crave for years to come.
After spending a good part of the afternoon lingering over coffee and sweets, dinner may seem superfluous, but to skip it would mean missing out on local specialties such as earthy white truffles, creamy risotto and dry Barolo wine. The Ristorante del Cambio has been around even longer than Al Bicerin, and does a good job with the classics, such as finanziera del Cambio, a chicken liver stew with veal sweetbreads and Marsala wine, served over polenta
(39-011-54-66-90 ).
Where should you stay? Despite being next door to the main train station, the 122-room Turin Palace retains its reputation as the city's grande-dame hotel (www.turinpalace.thi-hotels.com)—gained when the only way to travel was by train. Another equally good option: the 100-room Hotel Victoria (Via Nino Costa, 4; 011-39-011-561-1909), whose plush English-country-house décor seems incongruous only if you forget how hopelessly Anglophilic the Italian upper classes are.
From the Turin Palace, as from most spots in the city, you'll be able to see a bizarre building, shaped something like a cross between the U.S. Capitol dome and the Eiffel Tower. Originally meant to be a synagogue, the Mole Antonelliana, as it's called, is now occupied by the National Museum of Cinema (museonazionaledelcinema.it). The exhibits are worth a visit—in one, the two of you can even cuddle up to watch movies on a four-poster bed—but the best part is the observation deck. From there, high above the dome, you can see the Graian Alps, 60 miles to the west, where the hillier events of the 2006 Olympic Winter Games will be held. You may have Turin to yourselves right now, but watch out—soon the rest of the world will be cutting in.
—Christine Ryan
Cold Play
While Iceland is still relatively unknown to many Americans, those who do venture to this tiny Scandinavian country are transfixed by the lunar-looking lava fields, expansive glaciers and geothermal pools—not to mention the fact that there is zero pollution and the population is famously photogenic. (Think flaxen hair and pearly white teeth.) Reykjavik, the world's northernmost capital, sits on a hill overlooking icecapped mountains and the North Sea. It has a reputation as a party town, especially in summer, when the sun never really gets around to setting. But it can also be incredibly romantic: Wood-frame restaurants serve traditional Icelandic seafood dishes, including shark and seal. Cozy pubs have inviting fireplaces and shops sell woolly, hand-knitted sweaters.
Compact Reykjavik is an ideal walking city and can easily be covered in a few days. Its 19th century buildings, many of which now house boutiques and art galleries, are outfitted with corrugated iron facades and painted in eye-catching primary colors. Base yourself at the Hotel Borg, where all 50 rooms were recently redone with Art Deco furniture and marble bathrooms. Ask for one with a view of the parliament building across the street (hotelborg.is).
Down by the harbor you'll find the three-year-old Reykjavik Art Museum showcasing contemporary European artists including Icelandic-born Erro. The museum is housed in a cavernous warehouse and features six exhibition halls—a recent presentation showcased Scandinavian Pop Art (artmuseum.is/desktopdefault.aspx).
Plan to do some souvenir shopping, too. For Icelandic crafts, head to Kirsuberjatred, where fuzzy lambswool hats come in bright marigold and fuchsia and the chunky Lucite bracelets are sure to be conversation starters back home (Vesturgata, 4). Visit the Thorvaldsens Bazar for more traditional Icelandic items, including silver jewelry based on Viking symbols (Austurstraeti, 4).
When heading out for the night, you'll want to dress to impress, especially at the Pearl, the city's best and most romantic restaurant. Located on a hill, the Pearl features a revolving floor and a brilliantly lit domed ceiling. Dine on specialties like puffin and reindeer, and be sure to order a glass of the national drink, Brenniven, a potent schnapps made from potato and caraway seeds (perlan.is).
Ready to hit the hot spots? Things don't get started in this town until after midnight, but jet lag will work in your favor here. Trendy Apotek is housed in a former apothecary, and has a sleek white-on-white décor and hip music; expect to hear plenty of Bjork (Austurstraeti 16). Across the street is the Terence Conran-designed Rex Bar, with a backlit glass bar and leather sofas draped with leggy blondes sipping vodka martinis (Austurstraeti, 9). As you bar hop, be on the lookout for the Northern Lights, the mysterious greenish hue that dances across the Arctic sky on some nights. No one can predict when they'll come out, so be sure to have your camera ready.
In the morning, ignore your hangover and hit the road. No visit to Iceland would be complete without a trip to the famed Blue Lagoon, a mineral-rich thermal pool that's just a half-hour drive from town (bluelagoon.is). The lagoon is actually filled with the runoff from a giant geothermal energy plant, and the waters are known for their beneficial effects on the skin. As you immerse yourself in the silvery-blue liquid and watch as shrouds of mist rise from the surface, you can feel the toxins leaping from your pores. It's a uniquely Icelandic experience. Who knows? You may even regain enough energy to tackle another round of Reykjavik nightlife.
—Jill Fergus






Win Diamond Watches!
Free Brochures
Wedding Vendors
Message Boards
