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Passage to India

An eight-day train trip through one of the world's most unique and exotic countries will reveal ancient palaces, towering temples and an amazing landscape.

by Jenna Mahoney
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It’s a country of elephant-head gods and holy cows, ancient temples and sacred caves, a place where women dress in swirls of colorful silk and strings of flowers hang from balconies, churches and even automobiles. In India, makeshift temples sit in the shadow of modern hotels; small cities and towns rise up around ancient shrines; and the air is infused with incense. The food is a delectable symphony of curries. But for all of its beauty and intrigue, India can be a difficult place to explore on your own—its vastness can be overwhelming. That’s why you may want to consider a honeymoon by rail: a trip across the east coast Maharastra region aboard the luxury Deccan Odyssey train. This way, you can enjoy the culture, the landscape and the cuisine, under the expert aegis of local guides and a five-star staff.

Day 1: All Aboard

Passage to India_7

The looming Gateway to India in Bombay was built during the British Raj for a visit by King George V and Queen Mary.

The Deccan Odyssey leaves from Queen Victoria Station Mumbai (formerly called Bombay). The hulking Gothic structure is a World Heritage Site through which more than 40 million passengers pass each day. Have your taxi driver call a porter (negotiate the price ahead of time); he’ll guide you and your things to a special air-conditioned salon. At the entrance to the waiting room, you’ll receive a traditional welcome: A garland of flowers is placed around your neck; a red dot, made of saffron, is pressed on your forehead; and finally, incense is waved gently around you.

Upon boarding the train, which can accommodate 85 passengers, you’ll be greeted by a man in traditional garb. As your appointed coachman, he’ll wake you each morning with a gentle knock on your cabin door and offer you a choice of coffee or tea and a plate of tea cookies. He’ll escort you to breakfast, dinner and to the bar car. Your coachman can also arrange spa appointments (unique among trains, the Deccan Odyssey has a spa car) and ensure that you arrive at appointed activities on time. And the pampering continues: He’ll welcome you back to your cabin each evening with a refreshing cold drink and iced towels. For those who must stay connected to the outside world, the train has a lounge with a television and Internet access; newspapers are also delivered daily.

Day 2: Ratnagiri

Morning brings a welcome celebration, complete with sitar music on the train platform. Then it’s off to tour a rose-tinted temple of Ganesh, the elephant-head god and symbol of this region. Afterward, you’ll stop at Ganapatipule beach on the Arabian Sea, where you’ll spend four hours lounging on white sand. Lunch is Indian cuisine served buffet-style on the beach, and you can relax in a hammock, a chaise or a chair in the shaded area of mangrove and coconut trees. For something a little more exciting, you can take a camel for a short spin along the shoreline. Afterward, enjoy a leisurely boat ride along Western Ghats River (you’ve got to love those iced towels). On the excursion, you can have your astrological chart plotted, get a traditional henna tattoo (called a mendhi) or just sit back and view the lush landscape.

Photography: Daniel Hernández Lyon.


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