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Nuevo Mexico

The Pacific coast of Mexico is all grown up. Here's the ultimate guide to the hottest new resort area south of the border.

by Sharon Boone
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The Pacific coast of Mexico is all grown up. Here’s the ultimate guide to the hottest new resort area south of the border.

Although it is Mexico’s newest resort region, Riviera Nayarit, a 75-mile expanse of beachfront properties along the Pacific Ocean, remains resolutely old-school. While eager-to-please spots like Cancun, on the east coast, go all out to present Mexico as a nonstop fiesta, Riviera Nayarit plays it coy. Located just minutes from bustling downtown Puerto Vallarta, the towns of Riviera Nayarit maintain a dreamy, laid-back vibe, punctuated by full-service luxury resorts and golden sand beaches fringed with lush jungle.

Nuevo Vallarta

nuevo vallarta

Laid-back in Nuevo Vallarta

banderas bay

Two of a kind on Banderas Bay

grand velas resort

The sun sets over the infinity pool at Grand Velas Resort.

banderas bay

Stroll along the seashore at Banderas Bay, Nuevo Vallarta.

four seasons punta mita

The tranquil scene at the Four Seasons Resort Punta Mita

four seasons

Inside a room at the Four Seasons

This is the most developed—and most visited—town in the area; if you want to launch your exploration of the region from a luxurious home base, this is the place to start. And because all of the beachfront properties lie along a three-mile stretch of crescent-shaped Banderas Bay, you’re all but guaranteed a front-row beach chair for viewing the spectacular Pacific Coast sunsets.

The luxe all-inclusive Vallarta Palace resort offers some interesting touches. In addition to the complimentary mini bar featuring top-shelf liquors, all rooms have a double Jacuzzi. Four restaurants offer a choice of Brazilian, Asian, Mexican or Italian cuisine, and you can catch a different show in the seaside amphitheater nearly every night (rates start at $586 per person, per night, all-inclusive; palaceresorts.com). The clean, modern design of the Grand Velas All Suites & Spa Resort property sets it apart from the fiesta of colors found at many Mexican resorts. Each of the property’s 267 suites, which feature a private terrace overlooking the bay, is furnished with marble floors and teak furniture and decorated in earth tones. Some are also outfitted with Jacuzzis. The gorgeous spa offers the ultimate in one-on-one service from the moment you enter. Opt for the hydrotherapy treatment in the beautiful wet room, which features a hot and cold plunge pool, waterfall and mini Jacuzzi designed just for legs and feet (rates start at $920 a night; grandvelas.com). With kitchens and bold and vibrant décor, the all-suite Hotel Villa del Palmar Flamingos Beach Resort and Spa is a good choice for the budget-conscious or for hosting families or groups for destination weddings (rates start at $157 a night; villadelpalmarflamingos.com).

Sayulita

This sleepy town lies just 45 minutes up the coast from Nuevo Vallarta. Forty years ago, Sayulita was a collection of dusty streets roamed by skinny, seemingly ownerless neighborhood dogs and chickens. In those days, fishermen would go down to the bay early in the morning to cast their nets from their small, brightly colored boats. But in the late 1960s, North American surfers began flocking to the area, attracted by the warm waters and consistent waves year-round. However, their influence has had little impact on Sayulita—which is not to say you won’t find yoga studios, reiki practitioners and boutiques selling everything from native folk art to pricey jewelry. The streets, which veer sharply up into the steep surrounding hills, are still cobblestone or dirt (in the June to October rainy season they may become a bit muddy). And the beaches are blessedly free of crowds. Locals (natives, American expats and surf bums) cheerfully get around on squat ATVs, bicycles or on foot. Amenities are plentiful but for the most part basic, and the food is simple but first rate. If you’re a fan of seafood, particularly fish tacos, you’ve found heaven.
Choco Banana, located in the main plaza, is loved by residents and visitors alike for its tasty breakfasts (French toast, homemade muffins and amazing coffee) vegetarian and vegan options, delicious milk shakes and the namesake dessert, a frozen banana dipped in chocolate and topped with coconut, granola or sprinkles.

Next door is La Hamaca (Revolucion No. 110), a small gallery featuring a fine selection of everything from serious folk art and crafts to an array of items bearing the likeness of Frida Kahlo to fancy-schmancy woven hammocks.

If you tire of water-based thrills, head up to Rancho Mi Chaparrita (Calle Manuel Rodriguez Sanchez No 14; excursions start at about $25; michaparrita.com) on the edge of town. There you can sign up for a horseback tour through the jungle or up to the peak of nearby Monkey Mountain. They also offer zip line tours. The fantastic views will take your breath away.

Punta Mita

While it’s only eight miles from the rustic charms of Sayulita, the 1,500-acre gated community of Punta Mita feels a world away. If your idea of a perfect honeymoon is to be welcomed into luxurious surroundings like an old friend and swaddled in comfort for your entire stay, you can do no better than the Four Seasons Resort Punta Mita. And as with all of the Four Seasons properties, this one manages to be both grand and friendly: From the moment you arrive, everyone greets you by name. An enormous thatched-roof, marble-floored palapa serves as the lobby, affording breathtaking views of the beach and bay beyond, and winding lanes weave through the lush grounds. The property includes a private Jack Nicklaus-designed championship golf course, tennis courts and an adults-only pool complex with private cabanas and a full bar. A 55-foot private yacht is available for day trips and sunset cruises.

Rincón de Guayabitos

At the northern portion of the Riviera Nayarit region, you’ll find the small town of Rincón de Guayabitos, where quiet streets offer drop-dead views of the bay. The mostly residential pueblo is lined with elaborate adobe houses painted white, blue or yellow; many have two-story cylindrical towers topped with bright mosaic-tile domes (some are available for rent). Tucked among the houses is the Villa Corona del Mar, a boutique bed and breakfast that epitomizes the town’s laid-back elegance. Sit a spell on the front deck and enjoy watching egrets and pelicans wheeling lazily in the sky above the Bay of Jaltemba. The hotel’s seven oceanfront rooms and two-bungalows all feature colorful tropical-themed murals, terrazzo floors, an exposed-brick vaulted ceiling and a private terrace overlooking the bay. The property also boasts two pool areas, a tennis court and a top-floor master suite with a private Jacuzzi and 360-degree views. Meals are served on the wide terrace (rates start at $100 a night; villacoronadelmar.com).

For an even more spectacular scene, have lunch or dinner at the intimate Vista Guayabitos Restaurant & Bar (vistaguayabitos.com). Set on a bluff overlooking the town and visible from anywhere on the beach, the two-floor restaurant has a relaxed air; the Corona and Pacifico are always flowing and the sunset views are spectacular. Try the signature coco shrimp or chile rellenos, and you’ll have the most memorable meal of your vacation.

Photography: Grand Velas Resort; Riviera Nayarit Convention & Visitors Bureau.

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