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How a diamond is set-that is, mounted to the ring itself-determines how the gem looks on your finger: hip, classic, dazzling, demure.

If diamonds are a girl's best friend, then settings are the reason. How a diamond is set — that is, mounted to the ring itself—determines how the gem looks on your finger: hip, classic, dazzling, demure.

Your day-to-day doings can greatly impact the long-term condition of your diamond ring. Think about how you use your hands (are they often knuckle-deep in gardening soil? curled around a teacup?), then consider the pros and cons of each setting.

Care Guide: Protect Your Setting for all Eternity The first step toward protecting your engagement ring is picking one that suits your daily lifestyle. Whether you choose the stone or the setting first, make sure the size of the gem and the formality and functionality of the setting won't put it—or you—at risk. It's no fun to have a gorgeous ring you can't wear regularly because it's too fragile or formal. It's a good idea to bring your ring to a jeweler for an annual cleaning and check-up to make sure all stones are securely attached. Most metals are pretty sturdy, but silver and softer (higher karat) golds can be harmed when they come in contact with bleach and other chemicals. When in doubt, remove your ring—and store it in a safe place! Advertisement

The ever-popular prong setting (three to six little metal "claws" grip the stone tightly) allows light to shine through the diamond, showing off its brilliance. But prong-set rings are infamous for snagging sweaters, and their fragility makes them a bit high-maintenance. Look for prongs thick enough to secure the stone without overpowering it; platinum is your safest bet for larger diamonds. Get prongs checked, and tightened if necessary, at least once a year.

The Tulipset® (four sets of two prongs are joined to form corner "pockets" to secure the stone) can hold a deeper diamond. It, too, lets light shine through and, like a prong setting, is fairly easy to repair and resize. Though pretty, a tulip-shaped setting is not one of the stronger ones and, being fairly new, may be difficult to find.

Eye-catching tension settings employ inward pressure from both sides of the ring (12,000 pounds per square inch!) to hold the diamond. The gem seems to float in mid-air. Light plays through it nicely, but each ring is customized to a stone and sized to your finger, so resizing is tricky. For superior quality, look for settings by Gelin & Abaci, Kretchmer or Niessing.

A smaller stone may look larger in a bezel setting (where a band of metal fully or partially surrounds the perimeter of a center stone). It's also a good option for concealing or preventing nicks around the edge of the stone. Drawback: A bezel setting of yellow gold may be reflected in the stone, causing whiter diamonds to appear less so.

Another option for smaller stones is a cluster setting, where several small diamonds are grouped together to look like one large stone. Other options for multiple stones include bar settings, where stones are held firm by thin vertical bars around the stone, and channel settings, where a horizontal channel holds the stones in place with no metal separating them.

Finally, it's hard to go wrong with a semi-mounting (a shank with accent stones and a space for the center stone of your choosing). To control costs, choose a less expensive semi-mounting and splurge on the rock of your dreams. Or, find one with an antique look and remount a family heirloom.

Go for the Gold (or Pricier Platinum) The value of gold is measured in karats (the proportion of pure gold in a piece). Twenty-four karat is 100% gold, but too soft for most jewelry, so other alloys are added for strength, defraying the cost. The higher the karat weight, the richer the color, but the weaker the strength. In fine jewelry, 14K and 18K are most common.

If you prefer white metals, go for white gold or platinum. For the budget-conscious, white gold is your metal. Platinum is rarer and more expensive. It's also noticeably heavier, hypoallergenic and will never tarnish.