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April 4, 2008
French Flair
How happy was I to be invited to check out a new 90-seat bistro-style, restaurant, Bagatelle, which opened in New York City in the meatpacking district in December 2007. (In my past editorial life I did a LOT of restaurant reviewing, always fun and educational.) There were so many design elements to the dining room that I found très charming I had to tell you about them.
First—the big mood setter—the room is bathed in candlelight, and sparkly lights from pretty ornate chandeliers that hang around the room. On a shelf over the bar are about thirty white pillar candles warming the room with their soft, flattering light, while over the waiter’s station sat the only light source, a two-armed silver candelabra. The mainly all-white room has the charming look of a Parisian apartment with pretty decorative carved wood panels on the walls. The ambience makes you feel relaxed and sexy the minute you sit down, not a bad thing for a special date! Another memorable design idea I loved were the black/gold damask patterned floor tiles in the bathroom, subtle and fun.
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As I sat down the waiter said “bonjour,” I replied in French (my 8 years spent in all French school in Canada from kindergarten to 7th grade flooded back usefully), and the waiter smiled, “Ah bon, vous parlez Francais,” which immediately made me feel like an insider. He said, “Voulez vous eau sans ou avec bules (with or without bubbles) and I smiled and said, “Avec, s’ils vous plait.” (OK, I’m a sucker for an accent.) And yes, the food was really good. Executive Chef Nicholas Cantrel hails from Bobo, while one of the two owners, Aymeric Clemente, has history working the front of the house at iconic La Goulue restaurant.
I asked about the chef’s specialties and the waiter recommended the truffled leek ravioli, which was delicious. Three delicate ravioli with shells that were thin and light, and the irresistible taste of truffle oil blended with leeks. For an entrée, I tried the recommended fish dish, Grilled Branzino, moist and delicious. I couldn’t pass up my favorite French dessert indulgence: profiteroles, which were decadently delightful with perfectly prepared pastry shells—puffy on the inside with a crust that is firm yet absorbs the ice-cream/sauce combo—filled with ice cream coated with warm chocolate sauce. Chamomile tea, served in, it has to be said a tricky teapot that singed the hand of my companion who poured, rounded out the meal.
The meatpacking district launched with a famous French restaurant Florent (whose lease is up at the end of March after a 23-year run), and Bagatelle admirably picks up that baton and runs with it.
When in New York, check it out, but definitely call ahead for a reservation. There wasn’t an available seat and there were four people deep at the bar by 8 p.m.
Oh, and sadly yes, I left with a crush on the waiter. C’est la vie!
Posted by Monica at 10:56 a.m.
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