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September 24, 2008
Buenos Aires
OK my pretties, get ready for a pic-a-palooza. I told you that I’d been jet, jet, jetting along this summer so here is the proof from trip numero uno to Buenos Aires and Iguazu, Argentina:
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I know this photo is the H.O.doubleTest thing evs., but my purpose for posting this is two-fold:
Uno: Check out my no-fail travel uniform. I’ve got the cotton dress, the silk scarf and a cardi. Since June is winter in Argentina, I added my vintage YSL oxford shirt to the ensemble for extra warmth.
Dos: I also want to give props to LAN airlines. It’s the only carrier to South America to have fully reclining seats (AKA flat beds) in biz. class. Which for me, translated into actually sleeping (!) on a plane for the first time I think ever in my young life. Believe me when I tell you how much it rules to sleep in a bed on a plane. Plus they give you real pillows and a puffy downy comforter. I got so much rest during the nearly 12-hour flight from Santiago de Chile (LAN’s hub) that I came into the office after landing at 8 a.m.
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We stayed at the Hotel Alvear Palace. And it is pretty over the top—I mean the bath stash is Hermes! I know this may come off a little uncouth, but every night before bed, I packed away the prods and prayed that the housekeeping team would refresh. And of course they did, because this former private mansion is faaanceee. And that is what they do at faaaanceee places. You know what else they do? Have butler service on each floor, free Internet connectivity and fresh flowers in your room. This snap is of the lobby bar. I sat there one afternoon and ordered a Kir Royale for a whopping $4. (Did I mention the greenbacks go way far here in B.A.?) Anyhow, the yum-in-my-tum treat came with a ginormous plate of canapés. Had I A) known and B) not had plans, I would have had a full dinner right there—that’s how many appis were on that plate.
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I know this sounds all Tales From the Crypt (remember that show!?!?) creepy, but the highest rent district in all of B.A. is by the famous La Recoleta Cemetery. People actually pay more pesos for an apartment overlooking the sprawling mausoleum land. And getting a spot inside the cemetery is even pricier. Plus, unlike most places to rest, which charge a one-time plot fee, this one has yearly dues. And if your heirs don’t pay the dues, you can get evicted. So it is pretty common to find some tenants being evicted.
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Not Evita though. The most famous Argentine and resident of La Recoleta cemetery has her plot paid by the government. And these days, nobody can mess with her mausoleum. Check out that crazy ironwork! That’s because the former first lady’s body was, at one point, exhumed and shipped to different points across the globe. For years, she was in some random dude’s basement in FLA of all places. How she got there exactly seems to be as mysterious as the fact that her body was floating around the globe for so many years. Some people say her devotees, who wished Evita to be inducted into sainthood, stole her body from its original grave to make it look like she had risen from the dead. Others claim that it was the haters who were looking to do harm to the manipulative ice queen’s dead body. I read a book about the entire ordeal about a decade ago. (Yes, apparently I’m so old; I talk in chunks of time.) If you are interested in learning more about this crazy story, check out the book Santa Evita by Tomas Eloy Martinez.
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Argentina suffered a debilitating economic crisis in 2001, which for Americans translates into sick shopping. The leather goods and shoes are off the hook here! There are fantastic antiques and an enormous flea market every Sunday. There’s also a burgeoning community of local designers. We hit up the Palermo Soho part of town (there’s also a Palermo Queens) and strolled among the shops, street performers and antique dealers. At one point I noticed—the shops are actually bars. Imagine two of my favorite locales rolled into one…I was supah stoked!
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The only reason I posted this pic is because I think I look dayum skinny twisting the night away at some random disco in B.A. Well…truth be told it is more like early morning. Argentines are lingerers. They like long lunches and stay up way past sunrise. I think that’s thanks to the major Italian and Spanish influences. Not only can you see those fabu Med. cultures reflected in la marcha of the capital, you can also thank those classy countries for Argentina’s unbelievably delish food, yum-o wines and of course ultra-chic fashion.
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Those are two of my my traveling companions, Artie and Daniel, in the oldest restaurant in Buenos Aires on our last day in the city. (Insert sad face.) They both had steaks (Argentina is known for its beef), while my pal Sandra and I had some yummers veggie sandwiches with all the fixins.
Stay tuned for part dos of my Argentine adventure when I hit up Iguazu.
xoxoxj
Posted by Jenna at 11:52 a.m.
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